Jbrew

Think I would of tried that already, IF the problem bothered me enough. Not sure what the process is, but it sounds like it might be a big deal returning to stock. There's been other tune problems in the past IME with others that required reverting to stock just to to rule out the tune. They can get goofy. Something may have went wrong with after the battery disconnect. Yea, I probably would have ruled it out before replacing the FP just in case.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I truthfully forgot about having the tune. It is just mainly for transmission shifting and tire size adjustment.
I probably should have done it first, but as said, a regulator and fuel pump past 150,000 miles is really pushing it anyway.
Returning to stock is actually very easy, takes about 5 minutes.

Jbrew

Yea, that's all a tuner is good for in the gen 10's. You can get a tiny bit of power from them, but that's only because of shift points lol. I hardware tuned my trans, probably why it's lasted so long lol. That info was from a great tuner (Troyer) who wasn't out to make a buck back then. Just being a friend.

Chase1996

Have you tried a fuel pump relay

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

That would be a work, no work thing though, right?

It will start every time I turn the key, it is just a matter of how long it takes it to start running from the time the key is turned.
If I turn the key directly to start, it will take 7-10 seconds of cranking to start.
If I turn the key to run and wait 3-4 seconds then to start, it takes less than 2 seconds to start.

Chase1996

[QUOTE=blupupher;4985834]That would be a work, no work thing though, right?

It will start every time I turn the key, it is just a matter of how long it takes it to start running from the time the key is turned.
If I turn the key directly to start, it will take 7-10 seconds of cranking to start.
If I turn the key to run and wait 3-4 seconds then to start, it takes less than 2 seconds to start.[/QUOTE

Kinda! I had a similar issue. Mine started out being a hard start then turned into dying while driving and the. It might take 10 minutes to start. I also replaced fuel pump and it didn't help, IAC valve didn't help and a vacuum hose. Finally after thinking about it I switched my fuel pump relay with the pcm and I figured out my relay was bad. It will not hurt trying that or just buying a $11 dollar relay. Also my problem was intermediate

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I will go an swap it and see.

Jbrew

Jeezzz what happened with the quote ? Wait, there it is lol.


Anyway, that's the post you may of needed. I wasn't aware that relay could fail that way. Under the impression it was all or nothing.

Jbrew

Hopefully it's swappable with your model, I think it is, but Ford changed the systems around so much through the different model years, it may not be. Chances are it is though unless they did something goofy with it.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Well, went and swapped the fuel pump and PCM relays, and for a moment thought I had something.

I went to start it and it just cranked and never started, and then I saw the theft light was flashing.
I thought thats it, a bad relay. Well, I went and grabbed a new relay and put it in the PCM slot, and it does the same as before, long crank to start, or turn the key on for a few seconds and it starts right up.
I swapped the relays back (new relay in fuel pump spot) and no change.

I also did a quick check on the injectors. I read that you should be able to feel the injectors ticking if they are working right, and if one is stuck open, you will not feel it ticking.
Well, all 8 I could feel ticking. I then grabbed my mechanics stethoscope and same thing, all 8 sound the same.

I need to find my tuner tomorrow and return it to stock and see if it makes a difference.