blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I disconnected my battery and checked my battery level the other day (was a little low, added distilled water) and hooked it back up.
Ever since then, the truck seems to take a little longer to start.
It is not a battery power issue, it sounds just the same as before and voltage is fine, it just seems that it used to take 1/2 second from key turn to running, now it is almost a second before it starts.
Is it just a matter if the computer relearning everything for a bit before it gets back to where it was?

akdoggie

Most likely your are correct. It takes longer to set the parameters when the computer isn't set. It will reset for your normal use in 50-100 miles. At least until P1000 is no longer a valid code.

Jbrew

Huh, never noticed that in the past. Actually the only I noticed with a reset was that it took awhile to find idle right off. Idle remains on the high side and slowly makes it's way back down to norm.

Unrelated, but on start and every once in awhile, I've noticed it takes and extra turn. Guess you get use to letting the key go just before it fires. Just a little thing, but yea, very noticeable. Before PCM's, one might think plugs or ignition. Could very well be what AK suggested, but haven't noticed that myself in the past.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I had not ever noticed it in the past when the battery was disconnected, but it has been at least a year since it was last disconnected. As said, I just get used to how long to hold it to start, and I am constantly letting go too early now.

It is still not that long to get it started, just longer than I am used to.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Well, it is getting worse. It takes a good 4-5 seconds of cranking before it starts now. It will start almost immediately if I turn the key to the run position for about 4 seconds then start it. Seems my fuel pressure is dropping immediately after the key is turned off. I went to go rent a fuel pressure tester, but 3 Auto Zones and 2 O'Reilly Autos did not have any to rent.
I ordered and installed a new fuel pressure regulator (seems everything I read was leaning toward that being a probable problem) but it has not made a difference. That was a wast of time and money (probably did need to be changed for preventative reasons, but was not the problem).

Only thing I can think of now is a bad check valve in the fuel pump assembly (what I am thinking it is) or maybe a leaking injector?
So either way, ~$250 for a fuel pump or same price for injectors.

Seems lately I would be better off with truck payments instead of repair payments I have been having to do. Luckily the only real issue with a bad check valve is longer starts (or just turn the key on for a few seconds before starting), so putting it off for a while should not be a huge issue.

So I need to get a fuel pressure tester for sure, but how do I tell if it is an injector leaking or bad check valve? Both will cause the fuel pressure to drop when off, but I am thinking that a leaky injector will go a little slower than a bad check valve. I am also not seeing any black smoke when starting, which is a sure sign of injector issues, but I am also noticing a drop of around 3 mpg in my mileage with no change in driving (which is a sign of injector leaking).

techrep

iTrader: (1)

If you had a leaky injector there would most likely be a rich DTC and mis-fire associated with that. Check the fuel pressure first before jumping to replacement of good parts.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I know better. I need to call and see if they have a fuel pressure tester in yet I can use.
Like I said, I don't really think it is a fuel injector because I am not really getting any other symptoms of it, everything really seems to be pointing to the check valve.

Is the check valve part of the fuel pump itself or part of the entire assembly? I can get a bosch pump for around $60, but can't find any reference to the check valve being a replaceable part, which means I need the entire assembly for around $250.

Or if it is for sure the check valve, I will just keep driving it since it does not hurt anything except longer crank times, that are not an issue if I leave the key on for a few extra seconds before starting.

white89gt

I know mine sure acts off until all parameters are "ready". It even shifts strangely.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

gotta complete a drive cycle...

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

So I was out dropping off my daughter at the football game and decided to stop by an AutoZone to see if they had a fuel pressure tester to rent in stock. They did, but I forgot my wallet so had no money to rent it. hey actually just let me go out in the parking lot without paying for it, so all tests were done in the parking lot.

It was at 10 PSI when I hooked it up (truck was off for about 15 minutes).
Turn the key on, still at 10 PSI, but after waiting 3 seconds (with it still at 10 PSI) it starts right up, pressure goes up to 34 or so for a second then levels off around 29. I know that is in spec, but at the low end. I disconnect the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and it goes up to almost 40, so I know the regulator is good (duh, I just replaced it).
I turn the engine off, pressure drops from 29 to 20 in about 15 seconds, then seems to stay there for a few minutes and then very slowly drops down to 10.

So I still don't know what the deal is. Do I have a leaking injector that is not letting pressure build up, do I have a bad check valve that is not even letting pressure build when not running, or do I have a dying fuel pump (or a combination of them)?