term_paint

I have never changed plugs on this 1997 F150 V8. Looks like the wires go from the coil right into the head on top?????? This is strange to me i have changed many plugs but this has me stumped... Anyone familiar.

obusnizzle

its a simple distributorless ignition system. The plugs are at the top of the head, remove the boot and swap em out. Its about as easy as you can get. Motorcraft AWSF-32C are proper heat range copper plugs, use anti seize and go an extra 1/4 turn past full hand tight. Do one plug at a time and put a dab on dielectric grease on the end of the boot. If you have jointed type extension and/or ratchet with a short and long extension and a 5/8 plug socket, use it, if you dont, buy one.

Personally, I think platinum plugs are a waste of cash, as copper conducts electricity more efficiently. If the stealership doesnt have 32C plugs on hand, Autolite 764 is an exact alternative. Ive been running car forr almost eight years. In my original F5 '96 MY heads and in my '02 Explorer motor now.

NGM

Actually there has been some research done. Anti-sieze dosent allow the plug to ground properly. So don't use it. If the plug is torqued properly you will not have a problem. If the truck came with plat plugs then install plat plugs. It will run better. If it came with copper plugs use copper. I don't know which one flows electricity better but I feel unless you have major modifications stock is the best way to go.

whitecrystal1

Make sure you do torque the plugs in to oem specs. And anit-sieze wouldn't be the best thing anyways considering the fact that you only have 3 to 4 threats for the plug to tighten into.

obusnizzle

why do you guys advise NOT using anit seize? All '97 MY heads were the same, as they were F5AE Roemo cast heads with the only casting difference being that the trucks were tapped for Cylinder Head Temperature. Neither of my Romeo engines have ever lost spark plugs and the cylinder pressures are all the same. Besides the fact that you are contacting dissimilar metals onto the head, that being steel and aluminum, oxides in the steel and cause the plug to seize into the aluminum head, necessitating a heli coil or worse.

whitecrystal1

I generally alway use anti-size on everything including plugs. But using it does change the torque value and with then known problem on those engines why take a chance (Ford doesn't recommend it anyways). When I do the plugs on my 05 I will use it even thought Ford says not to use it on the threads just to apply it on the sleeve in front of the threads. I just wouldn't trust using it on those engines after what I learned. I did use it on the threads on my 02 4.6l when I tuned it up at 47K (do to the notorious misfire with plug #3) I was lucky I didn't dislodge a plug after doing this. I traded the truck in 9k miles later with 56K on it. I hope the new owner doesn't have a problem with it. I do understand electrolysis but I still wouldn't use it in this situation. Just my opinion on the matter

tgauna

Anybody...please help! My #2 sparkplug just blew out...after reading several sites, this seems to ba a common problem. Is Ford doing anything about it, and is there any legal recourse.

NGM

No and No.
Might take the head to a good machine shop and they might be able to heli-coil it without taking the head off.

NGM

This is from Autolite Manufacturer.

obusnizzle

So when a head gets cross threaded and/or the plug is seized, whats your reason for preventative maintenance? Claiming that the plug was in the head for to long? Ford maintains a 100,000 mile tune up interval on the platinum plugs, so when you wait the factory recommended 100,000 miles and want to change your plugs, what happens then? What about the reaction of dissimilar metals in a harsh enviroment? Whats the claim then when the head needs to be repaired?