Spannerhead's '99 XLT Log and Thread o' Questions (with pics)
#21
Senior Member
Figured I'd start a thread in here to keep from pestering you all with a bunch of questions in individual threads, and to help me keep track of what needs to be done on the truck. I'm not planning on "building" it for power or whatever so it's not really a build thread per se, hence the reason I put it in here. Here she is: '99 XLT, just ticked over 224,800 miles today. Runs very well. Previous owner put larger tires on it (265/75-16s) that really help it pop visually. Never been a huge fan of the '97-'03 bodystyle, but it's really grown on me. Current issues: - No heat. There's barely enough to begin defrosting the windshield after driving for 15 minutes and it doesn't get any warmer. Coolant level is good and the truck doesn't overheat. I'm thinking maybe a plugged heater core? I don't smell coolant anywhere. Going to investigate this weekend; it's only going to get colder from here. - ABS light on. Will plug the OBD2 scanner into it today and see if it tells me anything. - Intermittent odometer. Found the circuit board soldering fix. - Floppy shift lever. Found the Torx screw fix. That's really it at this point. In other news, I found this in the driver's rear door map pocket this morning: Any idea what it is and where it goes? The passenger sun visor's mirror is present and accounted for.
Truck looks good without boards, and probably no need for them with a 2 WD
Last edited by jollyroger331; 02-10-2014 at 03:53 PM.
#22
Impractical
Thread Starter
Truck looks good without boards, and probably no need for them with a 2 WD
Still wanna get mudflaps, though.
#25
Impractical
Thread Starter
Haven't checked in here for a while... The truck keeps chugging away, faithful as ever. I've put about 11,000 miles on it since late December, and it hasn't missed a beat.
The latest fix was earlier this evening. Following an oil change the truck starting leaking oil—not a lot, but there was definitely a slight puddle under whenever I would stop. Turns out the old filter sealing ring had stuck to the block when I removed the old filter, so there were two rings pressed again each other under the new filter. Needless to say, that won't hold 60 psi. Replaced the filter, topped up the oil; all is well.
I still want to get one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...rd/model/f-150
Need to figure out where the filter mounts, though.
The latest fix was earlier this evening. Following an oil change the truck starting leaking oil—not a lot, but there was definitely a slight puddle under whenever I would stop. Turns out the old filter sealing ring had stuck to the block when I removed the old filter, so there were two rings pressed again each other under the new filter. Needless to say, that won't hold 60 psi. Replaced the filter, topped up the oil; all is well.
I still want to get one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...rd/model/f-150
Need to figure out where the filter mounts, though.
#26
I want that Datsun!!!!!!
#27
Impractical
Thread Starter
Interesting thing happened to the truck on a 700-mile road trip Wednesday. Maybe it'll be helpful to some of you.
On the way back, on the highway, I started to hear a slight ticking from under the hood, rpm-dependent. Given my recent issues with engine knock, my mind immediately went to the worst-case scenario: Rod knock.
It didn't have the loud, hollow sound I associate with rod knock---it was more of a tapping or clicking---and its frequency seemed to be around half engine speed or less.
So I started to think: Do I have a collapsed lifter that's ticking? I pulled into a rest stop to try to figure out where the noise was coming from. Weirdly, it didn't seem to be coming from either of the cam covers but from the center of the V. Was it my alternator or water pump? I couldn't think of anything in either of those two components that would make that kind of a noise.
So I drove on, hoping my engine would hold together for the remaining 200 miles of the trip (it did, obviously).
Back home I popped the hood and put the shop light on it. The ticking was pretty loud and still coming from the center of the engine's V. Was it the serpentine belt? I looked at the side of one of the pulley and noticed the profile of the belt changed every time it went around the pulley at exactly the same frequency as the tick.
As it turned out, a 6-inch strip of the grooved rubber part of the belt had come off (though the outer part of the belt was intact) and every time the belt rounded a specific pulley, the shift in belt thickness would cause it to slap against the pulley and make the clicking sound, amplified by the length of exposed belt like a guitar string.
$25 and a new belt later, my engine is click-free and running perfectly.
Tl;dr: Was concerned about a rogue engine tapping noise while on a roadtrip; it turned out to be my serpentine belt.
On the way back, on the highway, I started to hear a slight ticking from under the hood, rpm-dependent. Given my recent issues with engine knock, my mind immediately went to the worst-case scenario: Rod knock.
It didn't have the loud, hollow sound I associate with rod knock---it was more of a tapping or clicking---and its frequency seemed to be around half engine speed or less.
So I started to think: Do I have a collapsed lifter that's ticking? I pulled into a rest stop to try to figure out where the noise was coming from. Weirdly, it didn't seem to be coming from either of the cam covers but from the center of the V. Was it my alternator or water pump? I couldn't think of anything in either of those two components that would make that kind of a noise.
So I drove on, hoping my engine would hold together for the remaining 200 miles of the trip (it did, obviously).
Back home I popped the hood and put the shop light on it. The ticking was pretty loud and still coming from the center of the engine's V. Was it the serpentine belt? I looked at the side of one of the pulley and noticed the profile of the belt changed every time it went around the pulley at exactly the same frequency as the tick.
As it turned out, a 6-inch strip of the grooved rubber part of the belt had come off (though the outer part of the belt was intact) and every time the belt rounded a specific pulley, the shift in belt thickness would cause it to slap against the pulley and make the clicking sound, amplified by the length of exposed belt like a guitar string.
$25 and a new belt later, my engine is click-free and running perfectly.
Tl;dr: Was concerned about a rogue engine tapping noise while on a roadtrip; it turned out to be my serpentine belt.
#28
Ayy. Thanks for the update! Glad you figured it out. And to think, some of the guys were telling you the worst possible outcomes.
#29
Impractical
Thread Starter
Well, the engine knocking is a separate problem, haha. I've just been filling it up with 93 the past few tanks until I have the time to get a fuel filter and some Techron to try out.
The story above it just an example of a fix that turned out to be way easier than I thought it was going to be. I had visions of replacing the short block or ripping out camshafts and cleaning lifters...
The story above it just an example of a fix that turned out to be way easier than I thought it was going to be. I had visions of replacing the short block or ripping out camshafts and cleaning lifters...
#30
Impractical
Thread Starter
On a related note, I really like the way Ford designed the serpentine belt to round the pulleys. I didn't even have to fish it around the engine fan like on some cars. It's the little things...... Almost makes up for where they put the oil filter, lol.