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Project "Rocker Repair" is under way.

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Old 05-21-2013, 02:14 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by chinaclipper
Thanks for the suggestions. And I apologize, you picked that up right away. It is NOT galvanized sheet metal I am practicing on, it is just stock sheet metal. Whew, ya, very VERY bad juju....

Also, for others who may be novice welders like me, make sure you have adequate voltage. You NEED a heavy duty extension cord if you use an extension cord. I mean BIG. I have to get a 10g x 50 foot cord for myself; I think a major problem I have experienced (self diagnosed) is the lack of the cord. The welds just DIDN'T look like the ones I'd seen on the 'net and seemed very weak.

I did get some wire from Lowes; funny, I have seen the comment about the wire from TONS of other posts I have read about the HF 90 amp welder.

I have the self darkening helmet (also HF, hehe!) but I am working with the settings to be able to see what I am doing.

Also, on a personal note I am beginning to realize just what it is I am getting myself into. Seems like one purchase just requires another;one decision leads to another. For instance, how do you seal the seams to prevent rust? Seam sealer? Do I need to find an area to do this rocker replacement (like rent a garage space) or do I try to do it at home? I just realized, for instance, the nearest 20A circuit (for the welder) is located downstairs in my home theater, hence the need for an extension cord.

Oh, and how nice it would be to have a compressor/air tool setup?

Stay tuned!
Damn, what if your garage/house is all 15amp? I've been to the breaker box a handful of times and noticed only a few 20+amp breakers that were dedicated to appliances. I have not seen one 20 amp outlet in this house

Sounds like this might crap all over my welding plans
Old 05-21-2013, 02:58 PM
  #102  
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Great job on the rockers.
Old 05-21-2013, 05:06 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by chinaclipper
Now THAT is a deal. Do you provide the rockers???
Nope. Thats included in the price. The guys probably illegal but he does good work
Old 05-21-2013, 09:59 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by chinaclipper
Thanks for the suggestions. And I apologize, you picked that up right away. It is NOT galvanized sheet metal I am practicing on, it is just stock sheet metal. Whew, ya, very VERY bad juju....

Also, for others who may be novice welders like me, make sure you have adequate voltage. You NEED a heavy duty extension cord if you use an extension cord. I mean BIG. I have to get a 10g x 50 foot cord for myself; I think a major problem I have experienced (self diagnosed) is the lack of the cord. The welds just DIDN'T look like the ones I'd seen on the 'net and seemed very weak.

I did get some wire from Lowes; funny, I have seen the comment about the wire from TONS of other posts I have read about the HF 90 amp welder.

I have the self darkening helmet (also HF, hehe!) but I am working with the settings to be able to see what I am doing.

Also, on a personal note I am beginning to realize just what it is I am getting myself into. Seems like one purchase just requires another;one decision leads to another. For instance, how do you seal the seams to prevent rust? Seam sealer? Do I need to find an area to do this rocker replacement (like rent a garage space) or do I try to do it at home? I just realized, for instance, the nearest 20A circuit (for the welder) is located downstairs in my home theater, hence the need for an extension cord.

Oh, and how nice it would be to have a compressor/air tool setup?

Stay tuned!
Keep in mind that you will only be doing spot welds. I can run mine for about 30 seconds straight before it kicks the breaker in my garage. I'm not sure of the amperage on it though.
That's with .30 wire. Cut that time in half for .35 wire. If I'm running beads, I weld a few seconds, take a break for a few.

You will be doing 2 second welds at most.

I actually did mine out on the street in front of my house. My truck won't fit in my garage. Took about 10 hours for the first side, being overly cautious. The second side went much, much quicker once I knew what I was doing.
Old 05-22-2013, 09:27 AM
  #105  
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Default Another inquiry please ...

Originally Posted by skizriz
I actually did mine out on the street in front of my house. My truck won't fit in my garage. Took about 10 hours for the first side, being overly cautious. The second side went much, much quicker once I knew what I was doing.
Thanks again Skizriz. you are becoming my mentor, like it or not

I hate to keep asking, but what is the procedure for getting the driver/passenger side doors off? When I was looking for parts at the "recycle yards" I looked at the doors to see if I could figure it out....No luck
Old 05-22-2013, 01:06 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by chinaclipper
Thanks again Skizriz. you are becoming my mentor, like it or not

I hate to keep asking, but what is the procedure for getting the driver/passenger side doors off? When I was looking for parts at the "recycle yards" I looked at the doors to see if I could figure it out....No luck
From my experience it's a real pita. You have to unplug every plug in the door and pull them all out the little hole there's no plug on the inside of the truck. That I could find atleast. Then just unbolt the hinges. (mark where they were originally so it'll be easier to get them lined up to operate correctly.)
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:43 PM
  #107  
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Default Do you mean....

Originally Posted by superduty
From my experience it's a real pita. You have to unplug every plug in the door and pull them all out the little hole there's no plug on the inside of the truck. That I could find at least. Then just unbolt the hinges. (mark where they were originally so it'll be easier to get them lined up to operate correctly.)
.. I have to unhook the plugs, then pull them (with wires/plugs intact) out through that rubber boot?
What about the "door over-open" thing? (I don't know its real name) How do I remove that?
Thanks
Old 05-22-2013, 07:43 PM
  #108  
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Just like Superduty said. Unplug everything, and pull it all out through the rubber boot.
If I remember correctly, I popped the boot loose, and left it in place on the wires, and slid everything out. Some of the plugs are more of a PITA to get to than the others.
TAKE PLENTY OF PICTURES OF THE WIRING before you unplug anything, or unhook anything. You WILL forget where everything goes, and how it is routed. The pictures will be a big help when it comes time to put everything back together.

Should be a T30(?) torx bit to remove the "door over-open" thing. (I like that name, it works.) I knew exactly what you were talking about. Remove it from the door itself, not the door jamb.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:52 PM
  #109  
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Here's a picture of the wiring. Here's what you are up against.



In this picture, you can see the hinges, the "door over-open" thing, and the wires coming out of the jamb with the rubber boot on them.
I can see that I was correct above in saying that I popped the rubber boot out of the door along with the wires, instead of pulling the wires through the boot.
You can see the boot still in place on the wires in the picture.



I also learned that putting the window down makes it easier for somebody to lift the door while you take the hinge bolts out. It's heavy, and reaching in through the window to grab it worked out much better.

Last edited by skizriz; 05-22-2013 at 07:55 PM.
Old 05-23-2013, 11:09 PM
  #110  
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Default Thanks again!

I think I got that part down. I will take pics and lower the window before I unplug things.

I have been practicing my spot welds, and they aren't gettin' better with my handy dandy Eastwood tool for spot welds.

In fact, I do better with out the tool.

I MAY be looking at their 135 MIG welder on a trade-in for the HF 90A.
Oh well, lots of time. I told my wife this was one of my summer projects!


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