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Noticed that the Evap system is always the last one to come online, and sometimes, even after driving around for quite a while it is still not ready.
Outside air temp has been in the 85-95 range as well along with about a 1/2 tank of gas.
(evap drive cycle)
6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%
Last weekend when I filled up the tank, I added some lucas upper cylinder lubricant/injector cleaner. Took a little longer for the code to trip, but after resetting it again on Monday it has not come back on.
Evap system is only one not online, and if I remember right... I can pass inspection with a single monitoring system in a "not ready" status on a 2002 vehicle. Sticker is up next month, so think I'll go in the morning.
But then back to it... if Evap does not reset, even after repeating the drive cycle for it again today, but no pending or active codes, has me wondering if something in that system is what is causing my code.
I dunno.. dirty throttle body, purge valve, oddball timing chain. I hate when problems sort of go away, as I know they always come back at the wrong time.
Yea the more of that Lucas stuff you use, the worse it'll get. It'll bridge the plugs, - cause all kinds of issues. Actually too much of ANY additives will Fubar the plugs. So IF you use them, use them in very light moderation. That's 'very light'. Personally, I don't use them period because of what they do to the plugs.
I guess that's about all I can help you with Taper. If your using the Ford company drive cycle literature, you should be able to get the EVAP monitor to run. To run EVAP, I use the expressway when there's not much traffic. You need to keep her steady while cycling up and down to force run that monitor....you know, to cut down on slosh.
Since you mentioned Lucas or additives, that can screw with you O2's as well. Yea, I'm not sure how much you have used additives, but just the mention of that would have me checking the plugs and O2's in order to get rid of the problems your vehicle is having.
Code has been off for a few days now and still running fine. Drove twenty minutes with cruise control at 65, then set at 60... evap still not coming back to a ready status.
Had a sandwich and a beer then took off the air intake to the throttle body. Nice golden color on it with a black edge around the valve, and when I open it with the cable it's good and black on the inside. Even without being a rocket technician... I'd say it's pretty dirty.
Never pulled one before, but would rather do that before spraying more crud into it at the moment.
Code has been off for a few days now and still running fine. Drove twenty minutes with cruise control at 65, then set at 60... evap still not coming back to a ready status.
Had a sandwich and a beer then took off the air intake to the throttle body. Nice golden color on it with a black edge around the valve, and when I open it with the cable it's good and black on the inside. Even without being a rocket technician... I'd say it's pretty dirty.
Never pulled one before, but would rather do that before spraying more crud into it at the moment.
Dont clean an intake on a truck all that gunk going into an engine all at once isnt a good idea. But the most tedious part is pulling the egr off.
You got that right jp, but clean it well, finish sand then polish. Use wheels , like a flap sander or wire wheel that fits perfectly. You can do a real nice job that way. It's a light port and polish.
Run only dry air filter elements and Motorcraft PCV valves. The worst thing ford did to those bodies is put a catch layer inside of them...get rid of it on the bench, then run only the type of products suggested.
BTW - that's Rocket Scientist Taper, - it more lat e da than tech.
EDITED. EGR info, - Yea , IF you remove the EGR to clean the port ( that's all that yuh do there) buildup, loosen the fasteners first thing, before anything else. Then break it loose w/dead blow mallet.....easiest way.
Can't help with those readings, never had to deal with it. Well, actually I have but I opted to disconnect the little inline exit filter for the vapor canister in the rear. It's a disc filter that gets plugged and causes EVAP havoc. Ford discontinued the parts so instead of the canister purging thru that line, it vents to the outside. No repercussions or fuel smell, the canister is still active. It's just the filtered exhaust hose filter that plugs.....pore design. I have pictures or that somewhere.
Anyway, yea you monitor should have cleared. Mine cleared after about a 80 round trip. That's 40 miles , each way mostly expressway w/full tank of fuel.
I didn't force run, it cleared on it's own. However my H02 monitor didn't complete yet, I have a prob w/B2S1. It's the first time the truck has been on the road for 3 years, so something is bound to come up...but it wasn't EVAP luckily.
Follow the #9 line and it dumps into an empty box. It's all pictured (except the filter itself) in the diagram above.
So yea, you can try to remove that exit hose and filter from the the rear canister. Worth a shot and it WILL NOT cause any sort of problem. The exit hose runs tro an empty container that sits in the gas tank cavity.
I may have a diag, nope, I'll find yuh one, here, -
Yea #9 points to the valve. the filter is directly behind that in th exit line. I had to pull the entire line and filter to get my EVAP working again.
If cleaning the throttle body does not help, I will check it out.
Where line number 2 goes to the throttle body is nice and black when I look in with a flashlight.
Can't work on a empty stomach, so have some shrimp, snapper and scallops to throw on the grill. Had some business this morning near a area with a row of seafood markets. Could not pass it up the opportunity for a good deal and good food.
Grills going and setup some shade over the truck... It's a good weekend so far
Went on a hundred mile round trip this morning, Evap system still not online.
Monitored different systems with Torque app.
Both bank short term fuel trims bounced between +5 and -5, long terms stayed neg 8 to 15 on both banks.
O2 sensors on both banks upstreams bounced between .1 and .7, downstream ones barely moved and stayed around .7 the whole time.
Anyone know if those readings were normal?
Gotta let the engine cool before I pull the throttle body. Have about 20 lbs of shrimp I need to take the heads off of to freeze
Dont worry about the stft. You are running rich. 15 % is fairly high. I would definitely pull my throttle body and maf and give them both a thorough cleaning. Jbrews idea of the light p&p job while it is off is a great idea too.
08-26-2015, 08:32 PM
