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p0172 on a 2002 F150 5.4

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Old 08-07-2015, 11:48 AM   #1
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Default p0172 on a 2002 F150 5.4

Pulled a p0172 on a 2002 F150 with a 5.4 with 210k miles.


Truck has been occasionally stumbling or rough idling, then clearing up over last two weeks.


Replaced plugs and coil packs about 15k miles ago, along with pcv valve and hose and it's been super smooth until now. Used aftermarket plug packs and motorcraft plugs.


Oxygen sensor values on bank1 are both .5 or above on sensor 1 and 2 and never really go lower, and bank 2 values change.


Idles smooth when cold, but gets rough as soon as engine heats up.


Trying to decide where to start... I replaced the heater core last winter... and after that much effort, I want to keep my truck. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:04 PM   #2
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have a snapshot for the p0172. drove around for a few more minutes and it has a 1132 now as well.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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"Oxygen sensor values on bank1 are both .5 or above on sensor 1 and 2 and never really go lower, and bank 2 values change"

P1132 Ford - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Bank 1

Possible causes
- Leaking fuel injector bank 1
- EGR stuck open
- Engine mechanical condition

P1132 Ford Description

A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating rich at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:36 PM   #4
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"Only" 93 degrees out so far...


Just watched a youtube video on removing the fuel rail and fuel injectors. I replaced my fuel pump at the same time I did the plugs/coil packs.


Might go pull the plugs on bank 1 and see if I see anything on one of them. Seems all codes are bank1... so worth a try.


Bought a aerobic step a long time ago... those things make great platform to stand on while working on a truck.
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:25 PM   #5
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P0172 System Adaptive fuel too rich (Bank 1)

P1132 Lack Of HO2S11 Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich

How I read the interpretation, you have a misfire on bank one, or multiple mf's. Every cylinder on bank one could missing and the monitor still won't pick it up and/or produce that DTC for yuh. The only cheap way to decipher that is with a 5 dollar app and a phone bus. Before that was available, most resort to replacing all coils (yea NO coil packs on your modle, that ended after 1998 model years. You have a COP ignition system.)

What has transpired, you used cheep china knockoff coils that don't come close to Ford spec. The correct coils are OEM Visteons or Motorcraft coils. Visteons are the chepest Motorcaft coils on the market and have a better record than Motorcraft. Usually can be had under 200 bucks a set. But those are the ONLY coils that use heavy build magnets with the proper thermal protection. The 5fours are very picky about plugs, some can 40 miles before a Autolite plug will fail, some may go 20,000 miles before they begin to peter out. What I'm saying is, DON'T use Autolite plugs. The engine, if it decides to run on them will never run right. Until you use the correct Motorcraft spec coils or above.

That's some info you want know first before updating those ignition components.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
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What has transpired, you used cheep china knockoff coils that don't come close to Ford spec.






That's some info you want know first before updating those ignition components.




Ouch... I did exactly what you have said and used a set of 8 for under a hundred bucks.


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Old 08-07-2015, 05:12 PM   #7
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Bad coils. The stumbling and rough idle when warm are a dead give away. Pick up a set of Motorcraft coils or Visteon DG508. If its not in the budget pick up a set of Accel's. I personally have WeaponX Coils. But I'm not recommending them for a stock truck.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:32 PM   #8
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Ordered a new set of good coils, and went out and picked up some new plugs as well. Got tied up, but finally pulling out coil.


Cylinder three plug has a little oil in the spark plug hole. Wiped it/blew it out and trying to see where it's coming from. Hoping it's just a valve cover gasket.


Cylinder 5 had antifreeze in it. The base of the coolant crossover tube is where it is leaking from. Can this be pulled up on both sides to install new gaskets sealant or is the intake manifold in the way?
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:30 PM   #9
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If one of the plugs was not firing good on bank1... it was plug 2. Nice and covered in black dry looking buildup. New coils are all Motorcraft, as well as motorcraft plugs.


Hot out and needed a beverage. Then back out to finish the plugs and install new coils.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taper123 View Post
If one of the plugs was not firing good on bank1... it was plug 2. Nice and covered in black dry looking buildup. New coils are all Motorcraft, as well as motorcraft plugs.


Hot out and needed a beverage. Then back out to finish the plugs and install new coils.
It'll run great . Yea coils use to be expensive, but now you can get the quality stuff for a little over 200 bucks for all 8, IF you know where to go. But you have to watch it, there's a lot of scams out that try to fool you into purchasing knock-offs.

Sounds like you have a handle on it, you'll like it, it'll feel like a new truck, IF your injectors are clean enough.
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