Options for repair of pinhole coolant leak
06-22-2010, 05:14 PM
#1
Options for repair of pinhole coolant leak
I have a 2000 F150 XLT with a 4.2L V6, 45K miles. I've owned it since new and other than normal maitenance it has been a good truck.
However, I recently noticed a coolant leak and tracked it down to a pinhole leak coming from a joint where a 1" coolant pipe, from the water pump, enters the intake manifold. The joint is located on the driver's side near the front of the manifold.
The pinhole, at the joint, can be seen clearly in the attached photo.
I'm note sure if this a symptum of something bigger or an isolated issue. Any ideas? If it is the only thing that needs repair, are there any options short of manifold replacement?
Thanks in advance for any ideas / suggestions,
Larry
However, I recently noticed a coolant leak and tracked it down to a pinhole leak coming from a joint where a 1" coolant pipe, from the water pump, enters the intake manifold. The joint is located on the driver's side near the front of the manifold.
The pinhole, at the joint, can be seen clearly in the attached photo.
I'm note sure if this a symptum of something bigger or an isolated issue. Any ideas? If it is the only thing that needs repair, are there any options short of manifold replacement?
Thanks in advance for any ideas / suggestions,
Larry
{#258286BA, F75Z8555AB, SW5970E9, XU2E12286FA0925}
09-23-2010, 09:06 PM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PLEASE HELP I TRIED TO FIND THE TOOL /SOURCE TO REMOVE THE
km-4528 TUBE
You can find the reference number at your ford f-150 repair manual. My bypass blew a pinhole after replacing the radiator. After doing some checking on the tube and cost of replacement, cut out the bad section, slid the heater hose on and triple clamped both ends. It has now been about 6 months with no leaks.
Trending Topics
07-11-2011, 11:57 AM
#8
What I ended up doing was using high temp. JB Weld around the joint. I was careful to make sure everything was clean and dry before applying the epoxy.
It has been a year now and it is dry as a bone. Let's hope it holds up for the long term. Either-way, it got me back on the road and so far saved me a bunch of money.
Good luck!
Larry
07-12-2011, 10:36 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Larry - glad to know yours is dry a year later!
I 1st purchased the tube from stealership and ended up returning it after 2 days of frustation. What a retarded design - why couldn't there just be a grommet in the intake? - silly pressed in madness.
Anyway - I ended up putting a weld all the way around the bottom 1" of tube with Permatex radiator & gas tank repair (expoxy resin... stick).
Most of my leak was coming from the back flange area and was pretty impossible to view (even with adjustable mirror and flashlight).
Did a few dry runs as this stuff hardens real fast and there's no clearance for a human hand to fit back there. Applied in steps and let cure for 2 hours. That worked and it's still dry 3 days later.
Have read many forums on this and several were duped into replacing intake manifold or atleast paying $400 - $800 for the repair. That is just insane. Talked to an old-timer mechanic at my local Dealer and here's what he does to replace the tube. Remove thermostat and the tube is right behind it, accessible. Bang a dent into bottom of tube to deform it.
Cut the tube off at the top. Using a socket, beat it down through the hole. The flange will bend/give. This will ream out the hole (obviously) and then use gasket maker around new tube.
Wonder how much they charge for that?
Anyway - hopefully others will find this info useful and save a few bucks.
The water pressure coming from the area is not that high - possible that a high heat silicone might even work.
I 1st purchased the tube from stealership and ended up returning it after 2 days of frustation. What a retarded design - why couldn't there just be a grommet in the intake? - silly pressed in madness.
Anyway - I ended up putting a weld all the way around the bottom 1" of tube with Permatex radiator & gas tank repair (expoxy resin... stick).
Most of my leak was coming from the back flange area and was pretty impossible to view (even with adjustable mirror and flashlight).
Did a few dry runs as this stuff hardens real fast and there's no clearance for a human hand to fit back there. Applied in steps and let cure for 2 hours. That worked and it's still dry 3 days later.
Have read many forums on this and several were duped into replacing intake manifold or atleast paying $400 - $800 for the repair. That is just insane. Talked to an old-timer mechanic at my local Dealer and here's what he does to replace the tube. Remove thermostat and the tube is right behind it, accessible. Bang a dent into bottom of tube to deform it.
Cut the tube off at the top. Using a socket, beat it down through the hole. The flange will bend/give. This will ream out the hole (obviously) and then use gasket maker around new tube.
Wonder how much they charge for that?
Anyway - hopefully others will find this info useful and save a few bucks.
The water pressure coming from the area is not that high - possible that a high heat silicone might even work.
