no spark or bad fuel filter?
01-20-2016, 10:24 AM
#21
Ford Owner
Removal is a big job but all you need to do to get at the crank sensor is take disconnect the fan and accessory belt, take out the four bolts that hold the A/C, and move the A/c compressor to the side. sometimes the bolts are in very tight so I would use a six point socket to remove them. You can also accidently unplug the electrical cable from the A/C compressor so watch for that. If you don't want to spend the money for a new crank sensor (about $25), you could try cleaning the old one by spraying it down with WD40. Also clean the electrical connection real good so you know you are getting a good electical signal to the PCM. All of that should only cost you about an hour of your time.
01-20-2016, 10:58 AM
#22
Removal is a big job but all you need to do to get at the crank sensor is take disconnect the fan and accessory belt, take out the four bolts that hold the A/C, and move the A/c compressor to the side. sometimes the bolts are in very tight so I would use a six point socket to remove them. You can also accidently unplug the electrical cable from the A/C compressor so watch for that. If you don't want to spend the money for a new crank sensor (about $25), you could try cleaning the old one by spraying it down with WD40. Also clean the electrical connection real good so you know you are getting a good electical signal to the PCM. All of that should only cost you about an hour of your time.
02-13-2016, 08:14 AM
#23
Removal is a big job but all you need to do to get at the crank sensor is take disconnect the fan and accessory belt, take out the four bolts that hold the A/C, and move the A/c compressor to the side. sometimes the bolts are in very tight so I would use a six point socket to remove them. You can also accidently unplug the electrical cable from the A/C compressor so watch for that. If you don't want to spend the money for a new crank sensor (about $25), you could try cleaning the old one by spraying it down with WD40. Also clean the electrical connection real good so you know you are getting a good electical signal to the PCM. All of that should only cost you about an hour of your time.
02-13-2016, 09:10 AM
#24
Senior Member
Hey Frankford, first off thanks. I found the crank sensor on the bottom in the front of engine, I must have a diff. Engine compared to the one you referred too. Im still trying to figure how to access my profile so I can add the right info. Im just a backyard novice and obviously need to work on my social skills too, but thanks again. My truck just threw a p1309code, one remedy is to verify that the sensor is synchronized properly and im having troubles finding any tutorials on how to do that.
P1309 Misfire Monitor AICE Chip Fault
Yea theres some info on the chip out there on forums. I came across it after I fried my PCM welding on the headers one day.
Check coil driver signal with a noid or test light at each coil. In my case I burnt the solid state switches for 4 of the coils.
Anyway, verify PCM signal.
02-13-2016, 11:31 AM
#25
Senior Member
Do you mind, I was attempting to read this whole thing lol.
02-13-2016, 12:12 PM
#26
Senior Member
Read everything, That dtc, -
P1309 Misfire Monitor AICE Chip Fault
has to do with the coil pack driver IMO. When you mentioned sync, just a guess but the PCM is unable to sync firing order. This may be a bad ground or grounds. PCM grounds are on the firewall, passenger side.
What you can do is clean the grounds.
Also when the problem is present, find a spare plug and check spark. (you may find more than one cylinder not sparking.. Since you have plug wires, this will be easy.
Keep in mind teh PCM doesn't use just one ground. Make sure all your grounds are in good shape.
Worst case, PCM is bad. But prelim test could result in an easy and cheap solution.
BTW you came to the right place IF you want to save money. All you need is comprehension, good effort and a heavy duty layer of skin...well, okay, most of the time.
P1309 Misfire Monitor AICE Chip Fault
has to do with the coil pack driver IMO. When you mentioned sync, just a guess but the PCM is unable to sync firing order. This may be a bad ground or grounds. PCM grounds are on the firewall, passenger side.
What you can do is clean the grounds.
Also when the problem is present, find a spare plug and check spark. (you may find more than one cylinder not sparking.. Since you have plug wires, this will be easy.
Keep in mind teh PCM doesn't use just one ground. Make sure all your grounds are in good shape.
Worst case, PCM is bad. But prelim test could result in an easy and cheap solution.
BTW you came to the right place IF you want to save money. All you need is comprehension, good effort and a heavy duty layer of skin...well, okay, most of the time.
02-13-2016, 12:29 PM
#27
Senior Member
Should of said I've read ALMOST everything.
Now I go back and read the rest of tcrotes advice. Finally someone who has a little fun with it.
Now I go back and read the rest of tcrotes advice. Finally someone who has a little fun with it.
02-13-2016, 02:28 PM
#28
No question, that is definately funny in fact I was hooked till about have way through. I guess im just frustrated with my truck and was irritated at the time. But what really gets me is the truck runs great when it runs. Idles fine. Gettin old I guess.
02-13-2016, 03:08 PM
#29
Senior Member
What makes it such a pain is that you have to flex the harness the correct way to find intermittent issues. It's much easier if they just would break lol. Anyway, that's what I have been dealing with the last 100 thousand or so. Also what to look out for is insulation cracks. Seen many of those. It cracks, wires are exposed and no longer oxygen free. Ford uses copper which is the best until exposed. They oxidize corrode, become brittle and break that way as well.
Have to keep an eye on the grounds. The cab to frame ground down under (pass side) goes first. You have to repair/relocate location at times, then one of the most important parts, coat with an inhibitor (zinc phosphate) giving the repair longevity.
If your able, it may be easier to fix what's wrong and sell the vehicle. Of course that hinges on what you able to do and how much time you have with fixing it when something goes wrong.
The engine/ignition harness under the hood begins on the firewall by the battery and circles the engine. These particular wires/harness tend to fall apart first.
02-13-2016, 06:15 PM
#30
Yea age and miles does play a role since your truck is at the point where things that don't usually fail begin to. My truck has 100,000 more than yours and it's 2 years older. The harness deteriorates, wiring severs inside of it's insulation making it a PITA to troubleshoot at times. This could be whats going on with yours. So far I've completely rebuilt the engine harness which includes separate harnesses like the knock sensor and CHT.
What makes it such a pain is that you have to flex the harness the correct way to find intermittent issues. It's much easier if they just would break lol. Anyway, that's what I have been dealing with the last 100 thousand or so. Also what to look out for is insulation cracks. Seen many of those. It cracks, wires are exposed and no longer oxygen free. Ford uses copper which is the best until exposed. They oxidize corrode, become brittle and break that way as well.
Have to keep an eye on the grounds. The cab to frame ground down under (pass side) goes first. You have to repair/relocate location at times, then one of the most important parts, coat with an inhibitor (zinc phosphate) giving the repair longevity.
If your able, it may be easier to fix what's wrong and sell the vehicle. Of course that hinges on what you able to do and how much time you have with fixing it when something goes wrong.
The engine/ignition harness under the hood begins on the firewall by the battery and circles the engine. These particular wires/harness tend to fall apart first.
What makes it such a pain is that you have to flex the harness the correct way to find intermittent issues. It's much easier if they just would break lol. Anyway, that's what I have been dealing with the last 100 thousand or so. Also what to look out for is insulation cracks. Seen many of those. It cracks, wires are exposed and no longer oxygen free. Ford uses copper which is the best until exposed. They oxidize corrode, become brittle and break that way as well.
Have to keep an eye on the grounds. The cab to frame ground down under (pass side) goes first. You have to repair/relocate location at times, then one of the most important parts, coat with an inhibitor (zinc phosphate) giving the repair longevity.
If your able, it may be easier to fix what's wrong and sell the vehicle. Of course that hinges on what you able to do and how much time you have with fixing it when something goes wrong.
The engine/ignition harness under the hood begins on the firewall by the battery and circles the engine. These particular wires/harness tend to fall apart first.
