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Old 03-13-2014, 11:27 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by Carcrazygts2 View Post
Go with V-Band style clamps up-pipes, and down pipes.
Definitely. I'm still contemplating on the turbo change, so I won't be installing any V-Bands yet. Once I get the hot side all welded into place to be tig'd I will be changing rods and pistons. The hot side exhaust was fairly inexpensive, I just don't want to get power hungry and run 14-16lbs and throw a rod or two or 8 on the dyno.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:30 PM   #102
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Just do it. You'll be much happier in the long run using larger turbo's. You stay in the fantasy island as its called and the turbo will run much more effieciently. So you will have cooler discharge temps in the first place.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:44 PM   #103
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Just do it. You'll be much happier in the long run using larger turbo's. You stay in the fantasy island as its called and the turbo will run much more effieciently. So you will have cooler discharge temps in the first place.
Yea, I just hate the prices of the new ones. Wish I could find a used alternative to save some cash for the Rods and Pistons to get this done a little faster.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:58 AM   #104
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Now for some turbo searching.

#Desired Boost Level
B:=10; #psi
10

# volume of air (cfm) = (engine rpm x engine cid)/3456
VOA:= evalf(6000*330)/3456;
572.9166667

#n(lb/min) = (14.7 + psig) x V cfm x 29)/ 10.73 x T deg R
n:=(14.7+B)*(VOA*29)/(10.73*(140+460));
63.74343094

#We find that ideally, our engine will require 63.7 lb/min of air under 10psi boost at 6000RPM. I say ideally because that assumes our engine has a volumetric efficiency of 100%. We’ll assume that our engines have a volumetric efficiency of about 85%. Now we can correct our airflow.

Air:=n*.85; # lbs/min
54.18191632

#Rule of thumb to estimate HP
HP:= Air*10;
541.8191632

#Pressure Ratio = 14.7 + boost /14.7
PR:=(14.7+B)/14.7;
1.680272109
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:20 AM   #105
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I love my Edlebrock intake with a S/C. I don't think it would be the greatest for this setup though.

You don't need Accel coil packs since the stocks are good well past the RPM needs you'll be needing. They are a trade off. Higher spark but shorter life. It's all about the way they're wound. If you use them, always have two extra on a shelf.

Myself and my best friend both lose about one coil per season.



IDR, did you ever change your Rods & Pistons? the block can handle 1k hp easy but the near pop metal rods and crap pistons can't handle much more than 425rw. (Auto trans being a number killer.)

Detonation being your worst enemy. I can't stress enough how important it is for you to have more fuel than you think you're going to need. I can't count how many people, myself included who ended up blowing engines because they didn't have enough fuel on the top end. ...You may say, "Meh, I'm only going to need this much." but it's better to have more and turn it down than push it into 90% and starve.

Same with injectors. I know we talked about them before but as I suspected, your build grew to more Hp than when you first started talking about it with us.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:32 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Sxynerd View Post
I love my Edlebrock intake with a S/C. I don't think it would be the greatest for this setup though.

You don't need Accel coil packs since the stocks are good well past the RPM needs you'll be needing. They are a trade off. Higher spark but shorter life. It's all about the way they're wound. If you use them, always have two extra on a shelf.

Myself and my best friend both lose about one coil per season.



IDR, did you ever change your Rods & Pistons? the block can handle 1k hp easy but the near pop metal rods and crap pistons can't handle much more than 425rw. (Auto trans being a number killer.)

Detonation being your worst enemy. I can't stress enough how important it is for you to have more fuel than you think you're going to need. I can't count how many people, myself included who ended up blowing engines because they didn't have enough fuel on the top end. ...You may say, "Meh, I'm only going to need this much." but it's better to have more and turn it down than push it into 90% and starve.

Same with injectors. I know we talked about them before but as I suspected, your build grew to more Hp than when you first started talking about it with us.
I will either be using the factory 03 intake with a new aluminum plenum or taking a aluminum one off the older models. I dont feel like dropping over 1500 bucks on an intake.

My COP's are cheap right now, still have 4 that came factory. So I will def be upgrading them to motorcraft or Accel.

Rods and Pistons are getting swapped for sure. The fuel system is still in the planning stages.

Have to get internals here before I begin to do anything.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:41 PM   #107
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Speaking of internals, are you getting different cam's? What's your head setup look like again?
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:26 PM   #108
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Speaking of internals, are you getting different cam's? What's your head setup look like again?
Factory PI Head(Ported by RPM of Bristol) with new valves and valve seats. I luckily had the 10 threaded chambers and PI heads from the factory.

The only major changes are;
JE Pistons: -21 with these rings https://www.jepistons.com/Products/J68008-3550-5.aspx
Manly H-Beam Connecting Rods: 5.4L "H" Beam Stock Length with 22mm Pin

Factory block and factory forged crank(8bolt) should hold my power in the bottom end.

Cam is up for debate, need to figure out what goes best with the new valves. Thinking about the MMR Stage 2, but need to make sure its compatibale with the new setup. Def glad I dont have to buy 4 of those things!
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:35 PM   #109
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These guys will be doing the dyno tuning for me. If all goes well I hope to compete in the dyno competition this fall. As long as I beat the GT 500 I could care less lol.

http://www.race-dezert.com/home/rpm-...comment-page-1
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:27 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibd2328 View Post
Factory PI Head(Ported by RPM of Bristol) with new valves and valve seats. I luckily had the 10 threaded chambers and PI heads from the factory.

The only major changes are;
JE Pistons: -21 with these rings https://www.jepistons.com/Products/J68008-3550-5.aspx
Manly H-Beam Connecting Rods: 5.4L "H" Beam Stock Length with 22mm Pin

Factory block and factory forged crank(8bolt) should hold my power in the bottom end.

Cam is up for debate, need to figure out what goes best with the new valves. Thinking about the MMR Stage 2, but need to make sure its compatibale with the new setup. Def glad I dont have to buy 4 of those things!
Nice, so your shooting for a compression ratio around 8.5/1 then?

Just trying to gauge evreyones builds and power goals lol
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