Motor locked up...
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yea it's got some miles on it then. 319,000 here, but I've been lucky. Damn, you just missed an excellent deal last week. Lightning engine w/38,000 miles went for 2200. It was in Texas, I'm in Michigan, the freight was high, but it was still under what that engine is worth if it was treated well. Couldn't do it, absolutely no history on it and no miles verification soo... If everything was normal about the motor, that price was a steel. Good luck finding an engine. If you find one with decent miles, expect to pay about 1300.
Last edited by rcruz3568; 01-25-2015 at 11:52 AM.
#12
Senior Member
lol.
It's like this, -
Never switch to full synthetic in a high mialege motor UNLESS, you flush the crankcase first..which no one does lol.
Over time and with conventional and syn blend fluids, a skin develops inside the crankcase in certain areas, on the walls. Full syn has so much more cleaning capability, the skin falls off the walls and plugs the sump or pick-up screen. It collects and layers on the screen. The engine heats up begins to seize until you the connecting rod or rods break. She's cooked!
It's like this, -
Never switch to full synthetic in a high mialege motor UNLESS, you flush the crankcase first..which no one does lol.
Over time and with conventional and syn blend fluids, a skin develops inside the crankcase in certain areas, on the walls. Full syn has so much more cleaning capability, the skin falls off the walls and plugs the sump or pick-up screen. It collects and layers on the screen. The engine heats up begins to seize until you the connecting rod or rods break. She's cooked!
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This ain't my first rodeo lol I got another thread of my last truck on here putting a motor in it. And I've done motor swaps in serval of these trucks sadly...
#14
Senior Member
Sorry to hear about the motor man. But hey, you could always throw a cheap junk motor in it then build a motor with all forged internals and just have a strong NA motor to put in when its done.
Then you could sell the junk motor when you swap the built one in
#15
Senior Member
#16
Senior Member
#18
Senior Member
Strips and cleans and does it quickly, in a much shorter amount of time than your referring to. Yea, I realize I made it sound longer, but it happens quick "Shock" when switching to 100% full Synthetic without a flush first. Within iduno, 500 miles or so after shocked or shorter. Built up skin looses traction, falls off and heads right to the pick-up screen. Best you can do for these engines is just use Fords recommendation. This is for all F150's 97 - 03 or 2 valve engines. Use 5/20 Synthetic Blend. Stick with that and you can't go wrong.
Hope that clears it up a bit. The post that your thinking about I made, I referenced other reasons these engines can end up with catastrophic failure and wasn't as specific with defining each one.
Last edited by Jbrew; 01-25-2015 at 12:59 PM.
#19
Senior Member
well there are a lot if junkyards around me. Raceway in savannah tn. Normally has pretty good deals. And miles don't bother me on a engine when buying from a junkyard cause you really never know what your getting anyways. I called a while back and they had one with 160,000 miles for 950 with a core. I'd be fine with that. Comes with some kinda warranty but can't remember what... As I always say once you buy one and drop it in... Give er hell and see is It gonna last lol that way if it don't the warranty will cover it. Most the time they give 30 days around here
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Right, well first thing I do is check compresion. Since that basically tells all and you won't have to waste time installing it. This way is the best. lets face it, a bad engine can outlive a yards warranty. You can do this at the yard, but you can take more time testing it at home with various tests to get a better idea of engine health. It's a must for me lol, -it doesn't lie.