A little advice
12-01-2015, 01:16 PM
#1
A little advice
I'll start off by saying I've searched the forum and found several threads about what I found out today. But there are quite a few all at the same time. Thought maybe they could all be answered in one thread. I'm nowhere near anything that can be considered a mechanic. Hell I can't even get my truck in the garage. (Sits too high). I had my oil changed today and they came up with a disturbing list of things that they think need attention. A little truck info, I bought it this summer with 165k. It's sitting at 168 right now. I don't drive very far to work. About the only good thing is the trans fluid according to them. The brake fluid, coolant, radiator and power steering need flushed. And the serp belt needs replaced. They also mentioned there is a leak near the rear of the engine. And yesterday it threw the P0171 and P0174 codes. What are the odds any of this is going to be reasonably priced? I figure since I'm having all this done, might as well change the plugs too. Any thoughts?
12-01-2015, 01:49 PM
#2
What engine and year? Without this, can't comment on timing belt or if it even has one!
Beware shops that give you this kind of laundry list...they are sometimes just trying to get your money into their hands.
You can change the power steering fluid yourself with a turkey baster (using the wife's is NOT recommended)
You can change the coolant yourself easily also, by either opening the stopcock at the bottom(if there is one) or removing the lower hose, and refilling the radiator with fresh fluid after closing it back up. Repeat every 2-3 years.
Radiator leaking? Replace. If not leaking and you have sufficient cooling in summer, then it is likely fine.
Beware shops that give you this kind of laundry list...they are sometimes just trying to get your money into their hands.
You can change the power steering fluid yourself with a turkey baster (using the wife's is NOT recommended)
You can change the coolant yourself easily also, by either opening the stopcock at the bottom(if there is one) or removing the lower hose, and refilling the radiator with fresh fluid after closing it back up. Repeat every 2-3 years.
Radiator leaking? Replace. If not leaking and you have sufficient cooling in summer, then it is likely fine.
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Billdozer (12-01-2015)
12-01-2015, 02:09 PM
#4
Senior Member
If the belt is bad that is one of the first things I would replace. You do not want that belt breaking on you while you are driving. The codes may be dirty injectors. I do not know much about the codes. Plugs and cables would be a good thing. If you cannot do it yourself find a good mechanic and do not take to dealer they will really charge you high.
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Billdozer (12-01-2015)
12-01-2015, 02:15 PM
#5
What they mentioned is the most basic maintenance. More basic than changing plugs.
Your braje fluid could prob go to 300k miles and still work. But it should be changed...its easy and cheap. Same with your radiator. Should be flushed, but will work. Same with power steering.
You're serpentine belt (different than timing belt; which you have timing chains) is easy and definitely should be replaced. I can do mine in 5 min with just a wratchet.
The leak behind the rear of engine could be a few things. If its oil or coolant will make a big difference on how to diagnose.
Those codes mean you're running lean. You're vacuum lines are probably bad somewhere.
I could do all this work myself and spend about $50 in fluids and prob $30-59 for the serpentine belt.
If you can't do this basic work, seriously, look up YouTube videos and learn. It's all very basic. I'm not busting your *****, but if you have any mechanic do it...you're probably looking at about $350 compared to the $100 I quoted when you can do all the work in about 2 hours tops.
Your braje fluid could prob go to 300k miles and still work. But it should be changed...its easy and cheap. Same with your radiator. Should be flushed, but will work. Same with power steering.
You're serpentine belt (different than timing belt; which you have timing chains) is easy and definitely should be replaced. I can do mine in 5 min with just a wratchet.
The leak behind the rear of engine could be a few things. If its oil or coolant will make a big difference on how to diagnose.
Those codes mean you're running lean. You're vacuum lines are probably bad somewhere.
I could do all this work myself and spend about $50 in fluids and prob $30-59 for the serpentine belt.
If you can't do this basic work, seriously, look up YouTube videos and learn. It's all very basic. I'm not busting your *****, but if you have any mechanic do it...you're probably looking at about $350 compared to the $100 I quoted when you can do all the work in about 2 hours tops.
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Billdozer (12-01-2015)
12-01-2015, 02:21 PM
#6
I appreciate it. I don't take offense otherwise I wouldn't have posted on a public forum. I've just started looking at some videos about changing some of the fluids. Doesn't appear to be that bad. My concern is just making sure everthing is done right. Making sure the correct amounts are being poured.
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12-01-2015, 04:13 PM
#8
I'd view it as an opportunity. You've got a running truck that needs it's maintenance brought up to date and then done periodically after that. You need three things immediately:
1) Order a Haynes manual......you'll use this in conjunction with the FSM for things like torque values and as a service schedule guide.
2) Locate the Ford FSM (Factory Service Manual) and save it on your computer. They're free and not hard to find. You'll use this along with the paper Haynes manual.
3) Get a torque wrench. Spend as much as you want.....or not. I have 4 from Harbor Freight ranging from a little 1/4" drive in inch lbs up to their 300ft lb 3/4". They all work fine and would serve you well until you wanted to get better and spend more.
Next: Vow to never let any one else touch your truck. Did they properly torque that oil drain plug......? If you hit a wall and run out of skills and tools, fine, take it in.
Next: Buy Motorcraft parts. Get into the aftermarket jazz later after you've got all your service updated.
ASAP:
1) You should be reporting back here about changing your own serpentine belt.
2) You should be reporting back here about changing your fuel filter.
Then build your list focused on the engine bay:
Replace vacuum hoses
Clean throttle body and MAF
Plugs
........etc.
They didn't try to sell you brake service? Good. Maybe your fluid is old and nasty but the pads and rotors are good. You need to flush your brake fluid. I use a vacuum bleeder I got from Harbor Freight. Works like a champ. Does a complete flush and bleed easily. Firm pedal and no air in my 2005.
On the horizon, you'll see suspension work if it hasn't been done by 163k miles.....I replaced all of mine at 140k with Moog and Monroe. Doing the upper and lower control arms, front struts, rear shocks, sway bushings and links, inner and out tie rod ends wasn't too bad a job for a shadetree and you save a bunch doing it yourself......It drives like it's new.
And so on. There's youtube videos for everything, how-to's here and across the web. Jump in and do that serp belt and fuel filter.
1) Order a Haynes manual......you'll use this in conjunction with the FSM for things like torque values and as a service schedule guide.
2) Locate the Ford FSM (Factory Service Manual) and save it on your computer. They're free and not hard to find. You'll use this along with the paper Haynes manual.
3) Get a torque wrench. Spend as much as you want.....or not. I have 4 from Harbor Freight ranging from a little 1/4" drive in inch lbs up to their 300ft lb 3/4". They all work fine and would serve you well until you wanted to get better and spend more.
Next: Vow to never let any one else touch your truck. Did they properly torque that oil drain plug......? If you hit a wall and run out of skills and tools, fine, take it in.
Next: Buy Motorcraft parts. Get into the aftermarket jazz later after you've got all your service updated.
ASAP:
1) You should be reporting back here about changing your own serpentine belt.
2) You should be reporting back here about changing your fuel filter.
Then build your list focused on the engine bay:
Replace vacuum hoses
Clean throttle body and MAF
Plugs
........etc.
They didn't try to sell you brake service? Good. Maybe your fluid is old and nasty but the pads and rotors are good. You need to flush your brake fluid. I use a vacuum bleeder I got from Harbor Freight. Works like a champ. Does a complete flush and bleed easily. Firm pedal and no air in my 2005.
On the horizon, you'll see suspension work if it hasn't been done by 163k miles.....I replaced all of mine at 140k with Moog and Monroe. Doing the upper and lower control arms, front struts, rear shocks, sway bushings and links, inner and out tie rod ends wasn't too bad a job for a shadetree and you save a bunch doing it yourself......It drives like it's new.
And so on. There's youtube videos for everything, how-to's here and across the web. Jump in and do that serp belt and fuel filter.
12-01-2015, 04:39 PM
#9
They did try and sell me about $500 in brake work. I'm not a mechanic, but also not quite that stupid. I'm going to give it a go so at least I'll be able to do it myself in the future. Any fluid recommendations?
12-01-2015, 05:07 PM
#10
All easy stuff with youtube and a haynes manual. For the codes if you cant find vacuum leaks, trying cleaning the.MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor) with MAF cleaner and get the codes cleared at an autoparts store. So if that corrects it.