KnightIRD

My window will not roll down on my 1997 f150. I replaced the GEM a while back, swapped switches, and took the motor out tonight and it ran both directions when wired to 12 volt source. So I tested the wires going to the motor and it reads 8 volts on neutral, when I press up positive 12 volts, when I press down positive 9 volts. What is causing this??? Shouldn't the polarity reverse itself? Need help soon going to get tint in a couple of days. Also one or two of the relays in the fuse box click when I press down. Thanks!!

Brandon

KnightIRD

EDIT: I connected the motor again, up is -12 volts, down is 0. Also the interior lights go out when down is pressed, and door ajar goes out when the door is open.

jiggseob

The flashing interior light and door ajar when trying to use the drivers side power window

The truck was new to me, and my first thought was that I was in for an electrical nightmare.

I got the truck home, went through it, cleaned a lump of white-crap corrosion off the battery cable ends, put Kopr-Kote on the cable ends, and re-attached the cables to the battery.

I also changed engine oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, topped-up t-case oil, and topped-up rear diff oil.

After all that, the power windows have never mis-behaved again. I doubt that the oil change and stuff had anything to do with solving the wonky power windows. I think the power windows are controlled through the GEM, and if for some reason that GEM gets odd voltage, it will do odd things. Maybe my corroded battery cables were preventing the GEM from getting consistent 12 volts.

Are your power windows consistent in their behaviour, or is it intermittent, good one day and not the next?

KnightIRD

The battery terminals are cleaner than heck, I cleaned them when I installed my new battery a week ago. Consistent problem, I figured out that when I press either up or down on the passenger switch the driver side motor engages up as well.

KnightIRD

@Jbrew

Any opinions on this?

Jbrew

Right, the PW's use bidirectional motors. So you SHOULD have 12v when switched to up or down and only then. Also should be '0' in neutral. I just fixed my power seats, -same type motors (3) and bidirectional. The problem was the switch contact points. They look just like points do in an old car or bike engine...the old points and condenser set ups lol.

Anyway, the fix was to file the points lightly with a finger nail file and also re-align them. They'll build carbon between the points with time interrupting currant. Also when they become mis aligned, they WILL short out when activated. You have to take apart the switch itself.
Now, I haven't worked on the PW's yet, - just the power seat and had the same problem....almost exactly same. So I'm more less assuming the PW switches work similarly. Check it out.

KnightIRD

But I put a new window switch in. Should I do that to the passenger side? I saw that it could be a passenger window switch failure as well

Triton54HD

check where the wires come from the body to the door. Inside the accordian boot. I have seen wires break and do some odd things. has happened to me before on different vehicles. worth a shot.

KnightIRD

Well it's got a dr appointment on Monday. Hopefully it'll be done by Wednesday, I've waited six months to drive her again. If I am feeling well Friday I might pull the boot off, I've been feeling crappy the past couple days and Friday is my day off of work. Any other suggestions while I still have it all torn apart?

Jbrew

Iduno, - if you've actually checked out everything, it can only be one other thing IMO and that's the GEM. But you have to be thorough. Uknow, wiring diagram and some chasing things down...that process of elimination thing.

This could get pricey at the dealership dependent upon who you have working on it. That's what makes learning to do these things yourself worth it. My multi meter has saved me a bunch of cash in the past.

6 months! It's been what, 3 years for me lol. I put 20-30 miles on it every 3 months, but it never leaves the driveway lol.