Let's talk about oil
09-02-2015, 01:44 AM
#21
Senior Member
- Wolvees Busted lol.
09-02-2015, 01:53 AM
#22
Anyone that has lost their spots knows about Designing Women and the other 80's TV shows, lol.
09-02-2015, 03:47 AM
#23
For longevity, use a full synthetic 5w-20 oil. For example, the oil passage lubrication valve for the timing chain is designed to work properly when using 5w-20. Deviation from this viscosity will cause excessive wear on the chain and other associated components. This is true through out the engine. Follow the OE specs.
Last edited by Tractive55LS; 09-02-2015 at 03:53 AM.
09-02-2015, 09:11 AM
#24
Senior Member
Idk why people say don't use Lucas i put half a quart of it in mine the last oil change idle kicks down faster and the lash adjuster only tick for literally 1 or 2 seconds. I run Castrol high mileage 5W-20 with a Motorcraft filter. ( lash adjusters are a little noisy because it has 254,000 miles on it and the PO didn't notice the valve covers leaking and ran it low so the low oil pressure light came on. the dealer said they changed the oil and sent him on his way. ) Anyway if you use lucas put it in last or you'll starve the oil pump and starve the top end. i'm stating what i found by using lucas. Also i found the idle is smoother after using the lucus ( worn lash adjusters i think is what caused the rough idle and they weren't lubricated enough by just oil )
09-02-2015, 07:12 PM
#25
Let's talk about oil
Read here for a good write up of this motor and oil use:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2230874
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2230874
09-07-2015, 02:12 PM
#27
Senior Member
For longevity, use a full synthetic 5w-20 oil. For example, the oil passage lubrication valve for the timing chain is designed to work properly when using 5w-20. Deviation from this viscosity will cause excessive wear on the chain and other associated components. This is true through out the engine. Follow the OE specs.
09-07-2015, 02:17 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missouri Ozarks & Clay Country GA
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Oil, eh? Ye want to know about oil? Why didn't ye say so?
The higher the psi the oil has, the better.
Wear protection reference categories are:
Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 115,612 psi.
2. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 105,875 psi
3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
4. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 99,983 psi
5. 5W30 Pennzoil “Ultra” Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from pure natural gas, API SN = 99,039 psi This oil was introduced in 2014, and comes in a dark gray bottle with a blue vertical stripe on the label.
6. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi
7. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 94,663 psi
8. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,460 psi
Diesel: 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil synthetic, API CI-4 PLUS, CF, SL, ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5, E7 = 102,642 psi
This is BY FAR, the highest ranked Diesel oil I have ever tested. This oil is Engineered for Diesel engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters (DPF). Amsoil says this oil delivers better wear protection than other popular Diesel oils. And in this case, their hype is absolutely true. They also say it effectively reduces fuel consumption, with its advanced fuel efficient formula. This oil costs $11.15 per quart in the 2013 Amsoil Factory Direct Retail Catalog, which is 10% more than Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. So, in this case, you pay only 10% more for the Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, but you get a whopping 33% more wear protection than you get with the Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. Money very well spent, if you run a Diesel oil intended for engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters. The next highest ranked Diesel oil ranks far lower on the ranking list. So, this 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil is in a class of its own, among all the Diesel oils I have tested.
Many of you have posted opinions about synthetic oil claiming that since you don't tow, or don't work the truck hard and change it sooner than ~10,000 miles or so that there is "no need" to use a full synthetic oil, or that you would no derive any benefits if you did use synthetic oil.
That really is not quite correct. Many people overlook one important fact about full PAO synthetic oil: It does not contain any of the parrafinic elements that make up the base of all conventional and "blended" oils.
Parrafin, of course is otherwise known as "wax". All blends are in the range of 85-90% dino, if not even higher, so there is still an abundance of wax present in blends.
The wax base in conventional oil (dino) is what gives it the neccesary "robustness' to withstand the extreme and diverse operating temperatures and pressures. Unfortunately, the wax is also the main contributor to sludge build-up within an engine.
If you only remember one thing about engine oil and engine cleanliness, it is this:
Sludge is far and away the #1 cause of engine failure.
All name-brand dino oils have advanced additive packages to prevent and combat sludge, but it still eventually occurs no matter what you do.
It takes (basically) four things to make sludge in an engine:
Air
Heat
Petroleum
Water
Air and heat are givens, as they are simply the nature of an internal combustion engine.
Water comes from moisture developed when operating an internal combustion engine, and can be controlled somewhat and dealt with with a variety of oil additives and engine devices (PCV system primarily), but they are not anywhere near 100% effective either, so water is also a "given".
However, a full PAO synthetic oil does not derive from parrafinic- based petroleum.
It is sourced from the family of ethylene and propane gasses. Absolutely zero wax content.
A Note: because all motor oils ( dino, blends and synthetics) require additive packages, and because all additive packages DO contain small but still-present petroleum products, there is no such thing as a modern motor oil with absolute ZERO wax content. Full synthetic is very, very close, but not quite zero.
Dino motor oil does not have to be "used up" or dirty before sludge starts to occur: It happens ALL THE TIME as you are operating your engine. The additives are designed to keep it in check until you cahnge the oil, but it still accumulates.
The big advantage to full synthetic is that because it has (nearly) no wax in it, it basically makes (nearly) NO SLUDGE in your engine.
This will make your engine far outlast any engine run in similar circumstances on dino oil.
Now....if you plan on getting rid of the truck around or before about 100,000 miles, then it may well indeed be a waste of your money to use synthetic. Modern (Ford) engines with modern dino oils are well capabale of reaching 100K with little or no excessive degradation due to sludge build-up. You would probably not notice any driveability issues during that time.
However...if you are mostly concerned with making your engine last forever (or as close as is possible) and plan on keeping it forever, then a full synthetic is probably highly recommended for you.
Another note: All "full synthetics' are not the same:
PAO (polyalphaolephin) synthetics are a Group-V base stock derived from non-wax based sources.
Group-IV parrafinic based stocks are derived from parrafinic sources, but go through many expensive extra-refining steps (iso-propane dewaxing, severe hydro-treating, etc...) to give them the ability to perform nearly as well as a PAO synthetic. It still has wax in it, and the FTC allows Group-IV oils to also be sold and advertised as "full synthetic". In reality it is not.
If you are interested in that story, look up the Mobil v. Castrol (Syntec) story from about 20 years ago.
Group-IV are very good, but they still have wax in them.
Mobil 1 has always been a full PAO. ExxonMobil now sells in addition to Mobil 1 a Group-IV product called "Mobil Super-Syn Full Synthetic" which is only to go head-to-head with other Group-IV oils. (price point stuff)
Amsoil has for many years switched back and forth indiscrimently between full PAO and Group-IV in their line of "Full Synthetic" oils, depending on where they get the best deal from thier suppliers. They took a lot of heat for that from industry insiders, and because of that, a few years ago they too introduced 2 lines of "full synthetics", one a full PAO and the other a Group -IV.
Basically, a clean engine lasts far longer than a sludged up engine, and nothing keeps an engine cleaner than a good full synthetic oil.
The higher the psi the oil has, the better.
Wear protection reference categories are:
Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 115,612 psi.
2. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 105,875 psi
3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
4. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 99,983 psi
5. 5W30 Pennzoil “Ultra” Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from pure natural gas, API SN = 99,039 psi This oil was introduced in 2014, and comes in a dark gray bottle with a blue vertical stripe on the label.
6. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi
7. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 94,663 psi
8. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,460 psi
Diesel: 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil synthetic, API CI-4 PLUS, CF, SL, ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5, E7 = 102,642 psi
This is BY FAR, the highest ranked Diesel oil I have ever tested. This oil is Engineered for Diesel engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters (DPF). Amsoil says this oil delivers better wear protection than other popular Diesel oils. And in this case, their hype is absolutely true. They also say it effectively reduces fuel consumption, with its advanced fuel efficient formula. This oil costs $11.15 per quart in the 2013 Amsoil Factory Direct Retail Catalog, which is 10% more than Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. So, in this case, you pay only 10% more for the Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, but you get a whopping 33% more wear protection than you get with the Amsoil’s 5W40 Premium Synthetic Diesel Oil. Money very well spent, if you run a Diesel oil intended for engines not equipped with Diesel particulate filters. The next highest ranked Diesel oil ranks far lower on the ranking list. So, this 5W30 Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil is in a class of its own, among all the Diesel oils I have tested.
Many of you have posted opinions about synthetic oil claiming that since you don't tow, or don't work the truck hard and change it sooner than ~10,000 miles or so that there is "no need" to use a full synthetic oil, or that you would no derive any benefits if you did use synthetic oil.
That really is not quite correct. Many people overlook one important fact about full PAO synthetic oil: It does not contain any of the parrafinic elements that make up the base of all conventional and "blended" oils.
Parrafin, of course is otherwise known as "wax". All blends are in the range of 85-90% dino, if not even higher, so there is still an abundance of wax present in blends.
The wax base in conventional oil (dino) is what gives it the neccesary "robustness' to withstand the extreme and diverse operating temperatures and pressures. Unfortunately, the wax is also the main contributor to sludge build-up within an engine.
If you only remember one thing about engine oil and engine cleanliness, it is this:
Sludge is far and away the #1 cause of engine failure.
All name-brand dino oils have advanced additive packages to prevent and combat sludge, but it still eventually occurs no matter what you do.
It takes (basically) four things to make sludge in an engine:
Air
Heat
Petroleum
Water
Air and heat are givens, as they are simply the nature of an internal combustion engine.
Water comes from moisture developed when operating an internal combustion engine, and can be controlled somewhat and dealt with with a variety of oil additives and engine devices (PCV system primarily), but they are not anywhere near 100% effective either, so water is also a "given".
However, a full PAO synthetic oil does not derive from parrafinic- based petroleum.
It is sourced from the family of ethylene and propane gasses. Absolutely zero wax content.
A Note: because all motor oils ( dino, blends and synthetics) require additive packages, and because all additive packages DO contain small but still-present petroleum products, there is no such thing as a modern motor oil with absolute ZERO wax content. Full synthetic is very, very close, but not quite zero.
Dino motor oil does not have to be "used up" or dirty before sludge starts to occur: It happens ALL THE TIME as you are operating your engine. The additives are designed to keep it in check until you cahnge the oil, but it still accumulates.
The big advantage to full synthetic is that because it has (nearly) no wax in it, it basically makes (nearly) NO SLUDGE in your engine.
This will make your engine far outlast any engine run in similar circumstances on dino oil.
Now....if you plan on getting rid of the truck around or before about 100,000 miles, then it may well indeed be a waste of your money to use synthetic. Modern (Ford) engines with modern dino oils are well capabale of reaching 100K with little or no excessive degradation due to sludge build-up. You would probably not notice any driveability issues during that time.
However...if you are mostly concerned with making your engine last forever (or as close as is possible) and plan on keeping it forever, then a full synthetic is probably highly recommended for you.
Another note: All "full synthetics' are not the same:
PAO (polyalphaolephin) synthetics are a Group-V base stock derived from non-wax based sources.
Group-IV parrafinic based stocks are derived from parrafinic sources, but go through many expensive extra-refining steps (iso-propane dewaxing, severe hydro-treating, etc...) to give them the ability to perform nearly as well as a PAO synthetic. It still has wax in it, and the FTC allows Group-IV oils to also be sold and advertised as "full synthetic". In reality it is not.
If you are interested in that story, look up the Mobil v. Castrol (Syntec) story from about 20 years ago.
Group-IV are very good, but they still have wax in them.
Mobil 1 has always been a full PAO. ExxonMobil now sells in addition to Mobil 1 a Group-IV product called "Mobil Super-Syn Full Synthetic" which is only to go head-to-head with other Group-IV oils. (price point stuff)
Amsoil has for many years switched back and forth indiscrimently between full PAO and Group-IV in their line of "Full Synthetic" oils, depending on where they get the best deal from thier suppliers. They took a lot of heat for that from industry insiders, and because of that, a few years ago they too introduced 2 lines of "full synthetics", one a full PAO and the other a Group -IV.
Basically, a clean engine lasts far longer than a sludged up engine, and nothing keeps an engine cleaner than a good full synthetic oil.