BlackBullXLT

Yes sir, here you go...

BlackBullXLT

Hey dopewaffle,

I used Krylon Fusion for Plastics as well as Rustoleum Plastics Primer and a good adhesion promoter.

Here is the write-up that I used with a few tweaks. Be sure to use a good respirator, perform in a well ventilated area but be careful of doing it outside if anything other than a completely calm day, be patient and do multiple coats and wait the full recommended drying time between each coat, sand and clean off when needed.

The write up, thanks, and the link to Zatrekaz in the Modded Mustangs forum:

"A lot of people have been asking me how I painted my interior plastic pieces. I do not currently have pics of the process as I don't have anything to paint, however I will try and detail as much as I can.

Materials

1. Variety Pack of Sandpaper -- Comes with 320, 400, 600, 800 grit
2. 2000 grit pack of Sandpaper
3. Rubbing Alcholo
4. Some form of soap -- Can be Dawn, Car wash soap, anything that can be used to wash the piece.
5. Microfiber Towels
6. Foam or Microfiber Applicator
7. Buffing Compound
8. Blue Painter's Tape
9. Adhesion Promotor
10. Automotive Primer
11. Krylon Fusion for Plastics color paint
12. Automotive Clear Coat
13. Beer

Step 1: Location

I am assuming you already have the part you wish to paint removed from the car. The first step is to find a location to paint. You always want a well ventilated, and if possible, indoor area. If you are forced to paint outside make sure your work area is controlled as possible (no animals running around, kids, lawnmowers, ect.)

If you are indoors, make sure you have fresh air coming in and some form of exhaust to filter the over spray. It is also a good idea to wear some form of face mask so breathing fumes is not a problem.

If you can't create enough vacume to pull the spray out, setup a spot to spray near an area that a fan can be setup to blow air right out of the room. I do this by sitting a work bench right at the door of the room with a fan under it blowing out. This way all fumes are caught and blown out the door.

Also make sure that the temp can be controlled.


Step 2: Prep

I want to make one point clear:

NEVER speed up prep

Speeding up prep for the sake of saving time will just ruin the end result Prep is more important than anything else. If you do not prep correctly the paint will either not stick, come out runny, or you will lose gloss.

1. First you want to wash the piece you are painting. I like to use something like dawn and a Microfiber rag for this. Dawn will help to remove most comtaminets.
2. Rinse the part very good and dry it with another Micofiber
3. Once it is dry wipe it down with your rubbing alcholo. This will help to remove most anything left behind from washing.
4. Once it has completely dried, tape off anything on the piece that you do not want getting painted with your Blue Painter's Tape. Take your time with this. Make sure all paint lines are where they should be, you will thank me later.

Step 3: Sanding, Adhesion, Primer

NEVER speed up sanding

Just like the last step... DO NOT speed up sanding. Sanding fast or hard to save time will cause deep and uneven scratches on the surface that will show through the last coat and make your shine much less than desired.

1. Begin sanding the piece with the 400grit
   sand paper
   sand paper
   . Make controled movements with equal pressure acorss the entire sruface. TAKE YOUR TIME. Always go in one direction as much as you can.
2. Once the surface is "scuffed" to the touch, you have finished the initial sanding.
3. At this point you want to apply your Adhesion Promotor. This will do exactly what it says. It allows the primer to attach to the plastic much eaiser.
4. Apply about 2-3 THIN coats of the adhesion promotor. Wait about 3mins between each coat or just enough so the coat becomes tacky before applying the next. Wait about 5-7mins after the last coat to continue.
5. 5-7mins after the last Adhesion coat, you want to apply 2-3 THIN coats of primer. Make sure you apply even coats, letting the previos coat become tacky before applying a new coat.
6. Once the last coat of primer has dried, you want to begin LIGHTLY sanding the primer. Use your 600 grit
   sand paper
   sand paper
   for this and follow the same guidelines as before. Sand with even pressure and just enough to "scuff" the primer up for the color to have something to catch onto.

Be sure you coats are even and do not apply it to thick. Even thin coats get much more results.

Step 4: Color

There are no set layers of color to apply. You simply need enough thin layers to cover the surface completely, then about another 2 thin coats after that. This is your bread and butter of the paint job, so take you time and pay attention to detail.

1. Apply very THIN and EVEN coats of your choosen color
2. Allow enough drying time between coats for them it to become tacky
3. Once you have completely covered the surface in color, apply 1-2 more thin even coats.
4. Allow around 10-15mins of drying time after you last coat.

BlackBullXLT

Step 5: Clear

Clear coat acts differently than the color. A lot of people think its just clear color paint. It has very special techniques to get correct and you just have to take your time and pratice.

1. Once your last color coat as dried, you are ready to begin clear.
2. You want to apply VERY thin coats of clear. Make sure you are applying an even coat to the entire surface.
3. Apply 3-4 coats of clear, allowing 5mins or so depending on temp. of drying time between coats.
4. NOTE: I have noticed that with rattle can, the area not immediatly under the spray pattern can become tacky when applying clear. The best way to overcome this is to simple apply thin coats accross the surfaces until you have a even coating.
5. Once you have applied your last coat, you need to let it COMPLETELY dry. I would say, for safety, wait ATLEAST an hour. If you are outside, move the part inside for drying.
6. Once you last coat as dried, you want to begin wetsanding with your
   2000 grit paper
   2000 grit paper
   . Be sure the paper has been soaking in water for ~30mins prior
7. Make very very very light sanding pressure in one direction. You are not removing paint here, you are smoothing the last layer of clear.
8. Once you have a uniform smoothness to the clear (you will be able to see the sanding marks) move on to the polishing step.

Step 6: Polish

This step is the step that will return the gloss and show you a finished product.

1. Grab your compound or swirl remover and applicator pad
2. Apply a dime sized ammount on your applicator
3. Begin making small overlapping circles with moderate pressure on the painted piece. You should see the sanding marking begining to disappre over time.
4. In order for the marked to completely be removed, it may take more than one application.
5. This will remove all sanding mark and produced a brilliant shine from the paint.

Again, this is just a guideline. Different interior pieces call for different methods, but this should cover most of them. As always, pratice makes perfect. It took me many times to finally get a method down and understand how paint works.

The main key it to take your time, be patient, and you will get there.

If there are ANY questions, post here or PM me and let me know. Hope this helps some people.

This is the kind of results you can expect from these techniques:"



This shows you a really good comparison between the black that I sprayed and the OEM grey. Don't be intimidated by taking apart the dashboard as almost every screw is the exact same size and length. I essentially have finished the driver side over to the passengers side including the glove box.




I started out small and I would recommend you do as well. I started with the coat hooks.

BlackBullXLT

Hey Red,

-So I am looking at an aftermarket steel hood and having that done in Line-X as you had mentioned.

-I need to change out the thermostat and give the transmission the full flush with new filter and gasket also change the serpentine belt (corrected) to a Goodyear Gatorback belt.

-I would like to change out the bushings and various suspension components because I am hearing a lot of knuckling and creaking.

I want to completely black out the interior:

-So paint all the rest of the plastics (a ton of plastic in our Fords eh).
-Dynamat the entire cab of the truck.
-New carpet.
-Weathertech floor mats.
-New upholstery for seats (Leather in front and faux leather or cloth in back).
-New headliner.
-Possibly install an Apple AirPlay stereo such as Alpine or Pioneer (not sure on that one).

Other things on the mechanical wish list would be:

-Transmission Cooler
-Performance Electric Fan Kit
-Performance Headers
-Performance Coil packs
-Underdrive Pulley Set

Cmanjr

These motors don't have timing belts. We have timing chains. One chain to each of the two cams.

BlackBullXLT

Thanks Cmanjr ....my bad, I meant serpentine belt and using the Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt. I am hoping to do the pulleys and belt at the same time as it would make sense. I just need to get a three jaw pulley puller.

Cmanjr

BlackBullXLT

Thought I would add this to my build thread for posterity; I performed a transmission flush with Amsoil Engine & Transmission Flush, replaced the fluid with Royal Purple Max ATF, replaced the trans filter and gasket (gasket IS reusable though), cleaned the trans pan and magnet.

Some pictures:



I used Amsoil Engine & Trans Flush to flush the system & then Royal Purple MAX ATF to run through system including torque converter and of course to fill system.




Ford Part Numbers for Trans Gasket & Filter (This is for the 5.4L V8).




Supply Line and Return Line.




Transmission Pan with gunk before cleaning.




Trans Pan Magnet.




New versus Old Trans Filters.





Old Trans Filter nice and dirty.




Torque Wrench between 106-133 inch pounds





Dipstick Tube Plunger-Used during manufacturing process found in bottom of pan, meaning this maintenance more than likely hasn't been performed before.

BlackBullXLT

Again, updates for posterity sake

Ran an engine flush using Amsoil Engine & Transmission Flush.

Then perfomed an oil and filter change using Royal Purple HPS 5w30 and RP Filter 20-280 (not sure if this is accurate or not but apparently WIX makes the oil filter for RP).

Cmanjr

Why'd you use 5w-30? Spec is 5w-20.