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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

How To Make It Faster??

Old 08-31-2015, 03:03 PM
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ScrewThat, - how did you get it to run worth a squat without cats and no tune?

The only way I can think of is, -well, perhaps using two 50 series Flowmasters, - since they are chambered and very restrictive.
Old 08-31-2015, 03:22 PM
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Default How To Make It Faster??

Originally Posted by ScrewThat
The heaviest f150 from the factory is the 5.4 super crew 4x4. I'm sure this is a base model without and extra options. From what I've seen the truck weighs in at 5110.

My 4.6l 2wd super crew in xlt trim weighs in at 4655. Approximately. I've seen different numbers but they all hover at about the same number

Please correct me if I'm wrong
I have a 5.4 screw 2wd. Weighs 5500 with me in it. So about 200 less. So 5300. At the local dump.
Old 08-31-2015, 03:43 PM
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Default How To Make It Faster??

Originally Posted by Jbrew
ScrewThat, - how did you get it to run worth a squat without cats and no tune?

The only way I can think of is, -well, perhaps using two 50 series Flowmasters, - since they are chambered and very restrictive.
It runs just fine..I cut them, gutted the catalyst, welded them back together and reinstalled. Did the Gotts O2 mod and that got rid of the codes. Haven't thrown another since. I didn't do anything in particular to get it to run well..i might take a video and post it to YouTube if you want some evidence. I'm not saying it runs better without cats vs. having functioning cats, just saying that it still runs fine for what it is and runs much better than having clogged cats.

And I have no muffler. Its cut after the y pipe for now. Long story short I ran over a chunk of concrete that fell off a contractors truck. It had some rebar sticking out of it and it bounced up and hit my exhaust and left a good gash through the muffler. Upon further inspection, my exhaust and the spare tire were the only two things that took any damage so I took the "cat back" off while I'm saving to build a dual exhaust with headers.

Last edited by ScrewThat; 08-31-2015 at 03:47 PM.
Old 08-31-2015, 04:33 PM
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I have a '97 F-150 scab 6.5' bed with the 4.6L. Last time I got the truck weighed, it was 5,880 lbs. Of course this is with my lift, 35" tires, my heavy **** and random tools and chains in the back lol.
Old 08-31-2015, 05:30 PM
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"Fast and quick," and "cheap, fast or reliable?"

As has been said and these are old, standard and necessary questions. Generally speed begins with a goal. The goal is then refined by either access to resources or available cash. There are no short cuts. Serious improvements involve serious money. Short of that, all anyone is doing is dabbling and tweaking.

By your Suburban comment I'm guessing you want primarily a quick street truck? How quick do you want to be? How much money are you willing to spend to be quick? There's a world of difference between taking a 15 second truck to 12 or 13 seconds compared to taking one below 10 seconds or more. How much can you do yourself? Do you have access to an "automotive" machine shop? They are not all created equal. How much of a mechanic are you? This isn't the typical maintenance and repair work most mechanics are doing daily.

For anyone to do more then generalize about your question, what is your goal? Whatever it is I'm sure someone here has, "been there and done that." The insight and experience you are after is here and available with the right questions.
Old 09-01-2015, 12:21 AM
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Keep this off the streets.
Old 09-01-2015, 11:45 PM
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Default How To Make It Faster??

Originally Posted by Wolvee
I'm going to say this as nicely as I can. I don't mean to talk down to you but I'm sure that's the way it's going to come across.


The saying goes, "Cheap, Fast or Reliable, Pick Two." No way around that.


Are you racing on a track or on the street? If you're on the street, grow up and get on a track.


How much money do you have to spend? If you're a broke *** living paycheck to paycheck then you're either living in a dream world or you're digging yourself in a poor man's hole.

If this were a Car I'd always to start with gears and say "Don't fear the Gear.". For the Truck, Gears can run $600-2,000 (2wd or 4wd) which can make the truck "Quicker."

Blowers start at $2500 and you can reliably make 300rw but it's the extra stuff you NEED will nickel and dime you. A $3k project can quickly get to $5k in a matter of hours, lol.

A professional tuner for that blower or E85 tune (The person not the device) with dyno time is going to set you back at least $500.

I have no problem with giving advice so long as I know you understand the basics and what you want. The simple place to start is the fact that nothing is going to make your truck "fast" if you don't have enough money.


Since you can't tell me exactly what you want, I'm going to assume you don't really have any idea what you want. Go to a Test & Tune night at a local drag strip track, get a feel for your trucks 16-18 second 1/4 mile times and come back to us. (Have enough money for for a tow truck at the end of the night.)
Speed and reliability is what I'm looking for. Cash isn't really an issue, I know how these projects can expand in expenses, been there done it believe me. Umm as for machine shops I would most likely have to send heads, block, etc off to be machined. I consider myself to be pretty well mechanically inclined, I do work at an engine rebuilding shop. (Small skid steer motors, but have worked on v8's) I understand what you were saying I'm not taking anything to offense. Just trying to learn. Umm we don't have any local (or any) drag strips around this area unfortunately. We raced on a private airfield, not street. Nah I'm used to the talk on here, I don't let anything get to me anymore I more or less take it as a learning experience, which I am trying to learn as much as I possibly can about my truck. I'll have to find some time when I get it back to take it out to the airstrip and do some runs with it.

Last edited by KnightIRD; 09-01-2015 at 11:48 PM.
Old 09-02-2015, 12:25 AM
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Would it be a bad idea for you to just buy a lightning and make that how you want it? Those things come fast from the factory, you just need to make the bed and cab how you want it.
Old 09-02-2015, 12:25 AM
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I've used Foxlake a few times for heads, Alternative Auto (Lidio) for tuning. Andersons and SHMS used to do great thing with modulars but I haven't used either for a long time.

I don't build my own shortblocks but we've used Livernois and MMR. MMR has good quality for the price. Livernois is over priced but among the best.

My last MMR shortblock came 6 weeks late.

Modular Head Shop has good heads and cams and have always had a good name in the industry.

I've used Cushman Motorsports cams almost exclusively in cars. (Formerly VT)


If I wanted big numbers I would go TT but for a daily driver it doesn't seem worth it to me anymore. I'd stick with a plane jane Kenne Bell top end matched with all the necessary Lightning parts.

Think about your trans. If you want real power you'll need to talk to someone more experienced than me with 4r70 & 4r100 transmissions.
Old 09-02-2015, 01:05 AM
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Default How To Make It Faster??

I'd swap in a built 4r100 transmission. I've heard they handle up to 1000hp when quality parts are used

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