I decided to install cruise control last weekend, and after having one wrong part, and just getting it finished this weekend, here is a quick write up on how to do it. I took some pictures, but not a lot, as I decided to do it last minute once it was almost done. So here we go.
What you will need is
1- Steering wheel with the buttons on them. I got mine at a junk yard - 20$
2- Servo, this is the part that makes your cruise control work. It's basically a motor that pulls your throttle cable open or closed. -20 $
** 97 - 98 are a different servo than 99 - 03. Make sure you get the right one. I didn't. And it gave me an error code and didn't work.
3- Throttle cable - Free with servo. ** 4.2 L is different than the 4.6/5.4L ones. 4.2L is a lot shorter and wont work. Make sure you get the right one.
4- some small copper wire (#16 - #20), solder, wire splices, basic hand tools, socket set. #8 and #10 mm for basically everything.
Where to start - First thing I did was install the servo, it goes drivers side, right in front of the fuse box. I stole the screws that came off the junker when I got the servo, so that bolted right in. #10 mm bolts. Connector is right there. It's held in place by just a plastic push connector, pull it up and plug it in. Then install the cable, it hooks right into the side of the throttle body, right beside the pedal cable. Note: Put something on the gas to keep it depressed, makes installation way easier, remember to remove it before starting up the truck.
Last thing to do it there is a smaller secondary connector, it is suppose to go on the brake reservoir. However you have to replace that whole thing because your truck wont have the connector. First picture. It's suppose to be a safety, if you hit the brakes hard, then the psi hits 125, it kills power to your cruise control. I just put a fuse on the ends to get it working, however I'm going to install a switch in the cab to act as my safety. Don't leave it with just a jumper in, it's dangerous to do so, I don't recommend it and you're on your own if you do.
That's all for outside if you've done it correctly. Now to the inside. First thing to do it remove the steering wheel. Start by removing the two hole fillers on the back side of the wheel. Everything comes apart easily from there. Careful of the airbag, you need a puller to remove the wheel. Remove all the way down to, including the clock spring. In behind there, there will be a connector. It's missing a total of three wires. I included a picture too. Third picture is (top to bottom) first the wheel (gray) clock spring (white) then the connector (In red). You have to solder on 3 wires. There will already be 4 there, but you're missing 3. Ford saved big money by not putting these 3 wires in, which makes it a pain for you to do. They will go to a connector, 1.5 feet away just under the dash. In my picture(second picture top to bottom), I added the wires as top red, below it black, then skip blue and green, and add your third wire, white. Colours don't matter, just easier for identification. Once you get that all together and working, shove the wires behind the dash(leave 2 feet of wire when you do this, makes the last step easier), and put you wheel back together. Clock spring (back the way you found it, new wheel on, airbag plugged in, all connectors attached, etc.
Last step, lay on your back with your head by the pedals and locate the cruise control connector. It will be a 1" x 1" brown square connector, last picture. Now take your wires and splice the wires you pushed through your dash and splice them on. I did somewhat of a hack job, as there is limited space, but no one will see it, and they're well connected so I'm happy. So the white wires goes the blue with black strip, the red to the black with blue strip, and black to black. This is the hardest part because of the working conditions. Once that's done, plug the connector back in and it should work.
This took me 2 full days off of just going for it with very little information and even the dealership saying don't even attempt it as it's way to hard. It should only take you half a day max, as I have a full outline for you to follow and knowing exactly what you need makes it easier. I'm glad I did though, and it works perfectly. Overall I would say anyone can attempt this, if you know what you're doing, it's a 4/10. If you aren't very mechanical, this is like a 8, because tearing apart a dash is kind of intimidating.
I had access to ford corp's online workshop to help me troubleshoot problems, which you won't have. But here is how to test it for problems should you run into them.
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
- Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument cluster will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
- Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
- A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
- 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
- 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
- 4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
- Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.