Hicksbarry94

Ok my truck has 4 cats it's a v8 how loud would my truck be if I hallowed out the second set of cats but left the first set alone would it be a bad idea or should I do it I can't afford high flow catalytic converters but where I live they have no emmision laws in place right now my truck is straight piped after cats with no muffler please help

99 ford f150 4.6l v8 XLT

Jbrew

Can you afford a piece of pipe for both sides? Just cut the down-streams out and replace them with a piece of 2.5" pipe.

If you can't afford that, -iduno, save up I guess.

Z7What

I'd keep te rear cats and gut/cut out fronts. The fronts are the more restrictive ones.

Wayne

jstockert

Remove all four. Not that much of a sound difference. I did and have no regrets.

Hicksbarry94

I thought about useing a peace of pipe but I don't have any one who could weld it for me

1997FordF150XLT4.6V8

I removed my flow master 44 and had a y pipe welded in and also had my rear cats removed. The truck surprisingly doesn't cackle and pop like you would think it sounds really beefy. Its almost identical in sound to my buddies Dodge Challanger with the 5.7L in it. It sounds awesome for a truck. The CEL did not come on yet (knock on wood lol) and there was no change in low end or anything like some people claim when they remove them. I highly recommend this if you want your truck to sound good I love my new set up!

Wolvee

State visual "safety" inspections, :0(


I could be wrong, (I'm not though) the fronts are Cats, the rears are resonators.

Resonators are in place for drone/sound control.

bodam

Put the guts Ina bag and send to me, when you hollow them out, lol

Jbrew

Alright I'll tell yuh. @Z7What gave yuh the hint. -I'll tell you how to do it.

1. Take the rear damper hanger loose on the Y. - You may also have to slide the exhaust off the hanger in the rear as well. That will depend how much play you have later.

2. Remove the 4 nuts connecting both upstream converters to the ball flange @ the manifold.

3. Let the Y drop down enough so that you can enter the converter from the opening.

4. To gut them, I use a long 3/4" auger bit and a Milwaukee 1/2" hole shooter (drill motor).

5. Insert the bit into converter turn it on and the brick will break, grind into little pieces. Small enough to suck out with a shop vac.

You don't need to beat on them. An auger bit does a good job breaking it all up.

Just reconnect , -done.

Jbrew

They're exactly the same stuff inside. Four catalytic converts w/ precious metals. That's why the scrap yard will give you more for them than it costs for two new HF's. I got 160 for mine, but others were given 200. Depends on the market.