mufflerbearing

Sorry to beat a dead horse... The ma tan/blue wire only having five volts is correct then? I assumed that was the issue cause the test thread said it needed 12ish...

Carcrazygts2

The maf only operates on a 5v reference. Its takes a real high end scanner to pick up the p0600. Either the Ford IDS or High end snap on scanners.

mufflerbearing

Got a little update. I did a bunch more electrical testing and found numbers that weren't matching the thread on here I've been using to troubleshoot my truck. I did some continuity test, with bad results. I pulled the intake off, to pull the engine harness off. Found 6 crushed wires. Fixed, new gaskets, stat, tps, iac, unplugged the egr port in the TB neck. runs pretty good now, but got a p1132. 02 b2s1..checked the plug with a dmm, everythings correct there. But on my scanner the voltage is constantly reading 1.275 for that 02, even if I unplug it....should it not change to 0 if its unplugged? Also, I have two coolant sensors...I tested both plugs, one has 5 volts, the one for the gauge has 12 volts, is this correct? My gauge never comes up to temp

Jbrew

Where exactly were the crushed wires mb ? The common spot, = top of the bulkhead, closer to the top right (pass side) front of the transmission. But yea, I can't recall which get pinched, but I've repaired them in the past. - Anyway , is that where you found them, curious ?

You also indicated black smoke @ start on one occasion, = Rich

P1132 Lack Of HO2S11 Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich.

When that occurs, your 02's on that bank (both) may foul and become slow to switch (problematic). This occurs very fast. It's more common with lightnings while working out a bad tune. More so with swaps and an inexperianced tuner (that can be hell). Regardless and all I 'm saying is, it may be beneficial to pull that bank and clean them up. Use a good carbon cleaner (Kroil or other) and compressed air regulated down to say 40-60 psi to assist. Yea not too much pressure (never on sensors) or you may compromise the sensor. If that doesn't work, well... replace.

Also with an 1132, that proves a MAF problem to be false. If one bank is negative and one side is not, it is not a MAF problem. That's what you would see with that DTC monitoring LT fuel trims.

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The connector gets it's power from the PCM. Not the o2 sensor...if that's the confusion. The o2 sensor harness itself, - two whites are the heaters, black is grounded thru the PCM, grey is the signal wire if I recall.

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What are calling coolant sensors, - just to be sure. Are you referring to the ECT and CHT ?

I think what would help you the most is Ford Service DVD for your model. You know, one of those ebay or amazon dvd's for Ford Service. It'll help you make sense of things faster/clearer. Plus you would know what the sensors actually go by (names).

I hope this helped, I left out quite a bit, but hopefully this will give you some direction.

brew.

mufflerbearing

Thanks for the response. The coolant sensor I'm talking about is for the gauge in the truck, I replaced it but its still not working correctly, it has 12 volts in the plug for the sensor? Is it supposed to be 5? And yes, back of top of the engine on pass side is where the wires were crushed. I don't know what some of them were for, some were for the tps and most were the grey/red strip ones that are all joined together in the harness.

The black smoke is now only on the pass side, which is that 02 in question. I have a brand new 02, does the same thing, also switched over the Dr side 02, does the same thing. No matter what, the scanner says its at 1.275 volts.

Sorry guys, I'm really want to fix this myself, I enjoy wrenching and love learning .electrical is not something I quiet understand just yet but I'll get there

4x4dave

That's odd that only 1 bank is running rich enough to visibly see un-burnt fuel.

o2 sensor data would really help here. Under normal circumstances on a warmed up and properly maintained engine you should see approx .500 to .700 mv. That's approximately lambda. 14:68/1

Any values greater than .700 for a long duration means your o2 sensor is genuinely seeing a rich condition.

If your o2 sensor data looks normal, yet your getting lots of black soot out the exhaust then your o2 sensors are bad or the signal to the computer is bad.

Also if your running rich on one bank, consider the possibility that one cylinder is not firing and simply gas is just getting passed through the exhaust. Checking the spark plugs will go a long way here too.

You could also check the offending bank and see if you have any leaky or stuck injectors.

4x4dave

that is a problem... I'm not sure what value it should be at unplugged, but if you remove the sensor out of the exhaust, keep it plugged in and key on, it should show a significantly lower value (.300 to zero) since it's now metering atmospheric air with no exhaust gasses.

again if you can post up more detailed o2 data. That will help diagnose this.

Jbrew

That cat most likely ignited inside, can happen pretty quick, unburned fuel and air mixture is pumped by the exhaust stoke into the catalyst, where it washes over the advanced coating on the catalyst honeycomb. The next blast of hot gas then ignites the mixture.
I haven't seen black smoke from these trucks to often. I recall a 97 lighning swap smoking so bad , the guys mother thought the barn was burning down....seriosly. First start, custom tune, - bad tune.

Guys that suck down seafoam have ignited the cats as well. They either get white smoke (burning product) or dark smoke (burning up the catalyst).

But yea, not too common, I agree.

mufflerbearing

The 02 data never changes, its alway 1.275. I even plugged a spare sensor in, sat it on the tire and started up. Still 1.275. Im thinking my comp might be the culprit.

Question.... I know there's the heater wires for the 02, which sends the signal to the computer the 5v reference wire or the ground/signal wire? Any body no what color it is?

4x4dave

I believe the red/black wire is the o2 sensor signal wire.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...ygen-sensors-1