Heritage Edition. Thoughts?
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Anyway if you all want to see the options go on car gurus and put the zip code 46158 in and you can see what I mean about overpriced ready to be mashed or REALLY overpriced pristine truck I'd kill to have
#32
No go for me.
Even if you fixed all the rust and put tires on it, you'll be at like $6500 for a truck with 250k and rough paint.
Take that same $6500 to another state and get a rust free truck that needs nothing. I only paid $7500 for mine with 143k already lifted and all, the only thing it needed when I bought it was a pcv valve.
Even if you fixed all the rust and put tires on it, you'll be at like $6500 for a truck with 250k and rough paint.
Take that same $6500 to another state and get a rust free truck that needs nothing. I only paid $7500 for mine with 143k already lifted and all, the only thing it needed when I bought it was a pcv valve.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
ive already got a $6,000 truck with 243,000 on it.. 3 years ago haha so that won't be anything new to me. I'm stuck between this and fixing it up ( I've got about 3 months to fix it ) or a $7,000 explorer sport trac with 130,000 miles ( but the transmissions tend to fail around that mileage) I think I'm also going to explain to the owner of the Heritage edition that $2,000 is a huge gamble on that truck too and $2,000 would be more then you'd get out of it if you scrapped it. ( cab being so bad )
#34
To be honest if I wanted the truck, I'd try to get it for as cheap as possible, spray all the rust down with por 15 or rustoleum and put used tires on it. I'd use it as a back up, work truck, beater etc. I'd never take the time and money to fix it personally.
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I already have a beater.. haha and the inner rockers are too far gone. The passenger side running board almost broke off when my brother got in the truck and the driver side isn't too far behind it
#36
I'm in NH and believe me, we know rusty trucks (bought mine from Florida). As everyone said, that truck is already showing it's cards and the game is about over. It's a basket case ride from now till it meets a scrapyard and you don't want to be the last owner getting the worst of it.
My 2000 Lariat up here in it's rust free condition is worth more than a rusty 08' all day everyday so I understand the "deal" of a $2,000 4x4 full size pickup but unless you plan to part it out that truck will disappoint you as it continues to disintegrate.
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah. Hmm. Maybe I should've taken more pictures of the inner rockers and floors.. they are as terrible as it looks but they aren't great/good. They are ok.
Last edited by Fordfan2006; 10-22-2016 at 10:49 PM.
#39
Senior Member
I was just looking at the sliding window and it looks like yours could be broken in the lower back plastic part of the assembly. There are 3 places that can break, without breaking the glass, and these allow water to leak into the cabin area. There are 2 places on the top where the plastic narrows down (early design window), and the one on the bottom, about where yours is bent. There could be 2 spots on the upper corners that are thin, but it depends which window you have. (2 designs of frames, according to what I've found). If you have the second design, it is thick all the way around. The early ones had the thin frame areas, and this is where they break (crack).
You might want to check that and see if there was any rust behind the back panel or water on the floor. Here are a couple pictures of it cracking on the top. I can't find the bottom pics right now.
You might want to check that and see if there was any rust behind the back panel or water on the floor. Here are a couple pictures of it cracking on the top. I can't find the bottom pics right now.
Last edited by akdoggie; 10-27-2016 at 03:53 AM.
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by akdoggie
I was just looking at the sliding window and it looks like yours could be broken in the lower back plastic part of the assembly. There are 3 places that can break, without breaking the glass, and these allow water to leak into the cabin area. There are 2 places on the top where the plastic narrows down (early design window), and the one on the bottom, about where yours is bent. There could be 2 spots on the upper corners that are thin, but it depends which window you have. (2 designs of frames, according to what I've found). If you have the second design, it is thick all the way around. The early ones had the thin frame areas, and this is where they break (crack).
You might want to check that and see if there was any rust behind the back panel or water on the floor. Here are a couple pictures of it cracking on the top. I can't find the bottom pics right now.
You might want to check that and see if there was any rust behind the back panel or water on the floor. Here are a couple pictures of it cracking on the top. I can't find the bottom pics right now.