Frank_Ford

To change the crank sensor, first remove the belt and then take out the 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the engine. Then move the compressor to the side. There is one bolt that is holding the crank shaft sensor to the engine. Remove this bolt and pull out the sensor. Then unplug the sensor from the wire harness. A new sensor will cost you about $25. If you don't have the tools to test the sensor, it is better to replace it rather than clean it up and put it back and hope that it works. make sure you clean up the connection to the wire harness before you put it back together.

Final note, it is real easy to pinch a wire or disconnect the A/C compressor from it's electrical connection when doing this job. (then you will have no A/C) so be real carefull when putting everything back together. I always do a double check to make sure everything is plugged in and the wires are not pinched before I tighten up the bolts to the A/C compressor so I don't end up breaking anything when doing the repair.

j.low

Just for the heck of it have your cats checked. May be plugged and the O2 sensors are sending a weird fuel condition signas to the computer.
Been there.

nof3ar

Has new K&N cleaned the maf last week doing spark plugs this week, could will be done next week, fuel filter done 3 days ago I'll let you know if spark plugs do the trick.
I had a spun spark plug last week it was stripped inside the block :/

charliedyal

One thing to look out for: K&N's have oil saturated elements. You can actually suck the oil off of the filter and dirty your MAF if there is excessive oil present on the filter. Also repair the thread before trying to tighten down a new plug in that location.

aloha_hawaii

i just read up on changing spark plugs. they reccomend me to do it when the engine is fully cooled to avoid stripping of the threads..and i dont have a torque wrench

charliedyal

Cold, hot, I've changed them both ways on these engines & never stripped one. Maybe I'm just lucky? Still wouldn't think twice about it either way. Sometimes they come out a little easier when it's warm. The aluminum heads expand and contract faster than the plugs. And don't go by the recommended torque on the plugs. I think it's something like 18 lbs but it needs to be between 25 & 30. Maybe someone could chime in and correct me. [MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION]? Honestly though, I've never torqued mine down with anything other than feel of hand. I screw it down hand tight then put the ratchet to it until it feels just right. And I use anti-sieze contrary to other opinions. I've owned these model trucks since 2004 and have yet to blow a plug out. Again, maybe I'm just lucky.

BossRacing71

Check your plug wells to make sure it's not a coolant leak from the intake. This will cause a misfire as well. This is most common in cyls 1,5,4,8 where the water passages from intake to head are right next to the plug, but it's not uncommon to happen in others, if your plug wires are older and don't seal as well.

Jbrew

Good questions, have a little info to expand on a few things. Your correct Charlie, but the expand and contract isn't all that valid with these heads. Carbon build-up isn't bad either on the plugs as well to cause a problem. You won't damage or make it easier enough to notice changing them starting at the top of the cool down cycle. No stretching or crossing happens that way with these. For one, the modulars run cool, heads cool very fast after shut down unless your running hot. That's a big part in why these engines can last so long. If your ever in a situation running hot, plugs changes are the least of your worries. These heads DO NOT take heat well. Over heat them once is usually all it takes, - problems occur pronto. These will warp, - just can't take that abuse.

As far as changing at the top of cool-down, and what you might be referring to Charlie is the 3V engines 04-07. The plug chambers retain the heat longer and because of the 3V plug chamber design (which is far worse than our trucks IMO), it does aid in removal...less plug breakage which we don't have with these engines.
______________

As far as anti-seize. It's like this, from my experience.. I believe with EVERY aluminum head made, it's an advantage, except with our trucks. This head design is like no other aluminum head. These differences tend to change things a bit. The largest problem we have is retaining torque. When you use anti-sieze you must reduce torque x 30%. With 5 thread heads (at best) and the tapered seat design, it doesn't pan out mathematically. Most that use it with these plugs and don't use a torque wrench will over torque the plug. You won't hurt the heads, but you can easily break the plugs ceramic silicon seal. The ceramic will blacken with carbon at the bottom where enters the metal housing when this happens. Which means of course they're leaking and you get a maked loss in compression. She'll still run ok (unless you actually crack the ceramic), but not as good as she could, -specially if all the plugs were installed this way.

Without a torque wrench, install the plugs dry following the Denso procedure and for best results, -

Spin to seat by hand/ using a 3/8 scrap piece of air hose.

With a socket and extension (NOT a plug socket w/insert), -tighten hand tight to further the seat.

With a ratchet and this is per Denso, - 1/4 - 1/2 turn. This will give you usually around 20-24' lbs. The head experts that have actually don the testing came up with 28' lbs. So with slight modification to the Denso procedure, - get it between 1/2-3/4 turn after seat. That will net real close to 28' lb's dry. That way the plugs are sure to be okay and the definitely won't come out (that ONLY applies to an undamaged head from start.)

nof3ar

I had a fouled up plug on cylinder number 4. I also cleaned the MAF.