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Help me rebuild this truck 03 FX4

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Old 03-27-2016, 02:32 PM
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Thanks again for all the hard earned knowledge.

I'll take a closer look at the mounts when I get a little closer. I only saw where they bolt to the engine and the single long one going through the mount.

Thanks for the part link and list of fluids. I was going to use LMC now I can price shop. I was thinking a fluid change would be good but would have over looked a few without your list.

PS is loose, AC bolts all came out but one, plan to cut head off or cut it in the middle so it will drop off. Top two eng/trans bolts came out from the top with a wrench. Can't see above where the starter was to see if there is one and did not reach up to check. Is there a motor/trans bolt there through the dowel? The ones on the drivers side seem easy enough so far took a few out. Exhaust will most likely need cut off. Got one off drivers side but the other is so rusted it's gone. Passenger side is tight and played with it some but switched to drivers to make progress then found the one was so gone it's gone! It doesn't even look like a hex anymore. Whats the best way to cut the studs from the manifolds? Wiz wheel, sawzall, or one of those front jigging saws?
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Fordfan2006 (03-27-2016)
Old 03-27-2016, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 Fx4
Thanks again for all the hard earned knowledge. I'll take a closer look at the mounts when I get a little closer. I only saw where they bolt to the engine and the single long one going through the mount. Thanks for the part link and list of fluids. I was going to use LMC now I can price shop. I was thinking a fluid change would be good but would have over looked a few without your list. PS is loose, AC bolts all came out but one, plan to cut head off or cut it in the middle so it will drop off. Top two eng/trans bolts came out from the top with a wrench. Can't see above where the starter was to see if there is one and did not reach up to check. Is there a motor/trans bolt there through the dowel? The ones on the drivers side seem easy enough so far took a few out. Exhaust will most likely need cut off. Got one off drivers side but the other is so rusted it's gone. Passenger side is tight and played with it some but switched to drivers to make progress then found the one was so gone it's gone! It doesn't even look like a hex anymore. Whats the best way to cut the studs from the manifolds? Wiz wheel, sawzall, or one of those front jigging saws?
also if you do a transfer case fluid change put cardboard on the cross member by the transfer case.. I didn't and it went everywhere except the drain pan. ruined a $20 white carhartt shirt too.. Anyway the 4x4 is a lot quieter now and smooth. So if anyone that looks at this hasn't done it I'd do it it's not hard and you just need a little pump to get the new fluid into it.
Old 03-27-2016, 05:35 PM
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I just pulled a 5.4 out of my 02 4x4 and I didn't disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the block, the only thing I found to remotely close to a problem doing it that way is the driver side one scrapes a little on the steering column.
I disconnected them at the pipes and it came out just fine, well not exactly just file, I had a problem getting the motor mounts to clear before embedding itself into the firewall, and had to take the passenger side off and rock the engine that way. I have read that the process is a lot easier with the cab off, and if I had the means I really wish I could have done it this way. the other major pain I had was the nuts and bolts setup holding the wire harness and the heater core tube to the back of the block, when you get there you'll know... there are 2 studs holding on a bracket that the wires run through, it also looks like the bracket for the heater core tube... this is actually 2 brackets, the 2 10mm nuts hold the wire harness brackets, and once you get that bracket off then you can access the 2 13mm studs for removal. these were by far more of a problem than the exhaust, I would however recommend removing the plastic wheel wells for better access to the motor mounts... oh and before I forget, get yourself about 4 feet of extensions and a good stiff swivel to remove the top two tranny bolts, a helper guiding the socket was nice too...
Old 03-28-2016, 07:49 AM
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I removed the two top bolts with the angled side of a box end wrench. Yes I saw those brackets and cables when I was doing this. It made the pass side harder and slower.

I'm leaving the manifolds on. I'm going to have to cut the two studs on each manifold connecting it to the exhaust. Drivers side has a nut so rusted it is gone. Manifolds look pretty bad anyway. To me the motor has to come out at this point, I've gone to far. If I have to replace the studs, get junk yard manifolds or new ones that is what I'll do.

Raining this morning don't know if I'll make any progress this afternoon.


Oh yea, still need the tool to pop the oil cooler lines from radiator? can someone post a picture of them or a link to buy them. Local parts store only had ones for fuel.

Last edited by 03 Fx4; 03-28-2016 at 10:25 AM.
Old 03-28-2016, 05:46 PM
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Can't help there...
I have an xlt, no oil cooler... and the tranny lines were nuts...
My manifolds look horrible from the outside, rusted beyond all belief, but they seem to be solid. I had 2 broken studs (pass side rear, from what I read, it's a notorious problem) I'm going to have to drill in my heads. The block looks like it should crumble too with all the rust there... don't know why Ford cheaped out on engine paint...
Maybe try Amazon, I've found a big variety of tools there.
Wish you luck with your search!
Can you get a nut splitter on your exhaust nut?

Last edited by Keith_Markham; 03-28-2016 at 05:56 PM.
Old 03-28-2016, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by guyina4x4
I just cut the exhaust bolts with a grinder, I think I took out the inner wheel well for better access.

yes I used a bunch of extensions on the bell housing bolts. not that bad really

the converter will come out with the engine, plan on buying new seal for the front of the trans, it was like $7 from Ford.
Taking out the inner fender was genius. I used a die grinder and cut the manifold studs. I even got the bolt above the starter out from the side! So I never had to use long lengths of extensions yet. Wind is blowing hard right now. Inner fender was way over in neighbors yard when I found it.

Motor mounts, radiator, maybe condenser and check behind the motor for wires and I think it's ready to come out


Keith these manifolds also look rotted away. Looks like some of the bolt were already broken, don't know why the previous owner did that? Good thing I'm not using the engine that's in there.
Don't know yet If I'll try to use the originals or buy new ones. Anyone use the Ebay Chinese manifolds? Or get junk yard originals? I had to do something this engine had to come out.

Last edited by 03 Fx4; 03-28-2016 at 06:43 PM.
Old 03-28-2016, 06:41 PM
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There's a couple of plastic plugs that hold the wires to the back passenger side head... I had to break mine...
One thing I forgot was the bolt holding the tranny dipstick...
Old 03-28-2016, 08:25 PM
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http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/f-150...position=right http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/f-150...&position=left You need 2 of each gasket. http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/f-150...&position=left so 4 of these.
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:00 AM
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Tasca seems a bit high on those
we got manifold for my sons truck at Autozone for $80, came with gaskets and new studs
I used a cheap ebay manifold once, it was like $50, also came with new gaskets and studs
I'm pretty sure they were the same
Old 03-29-2016, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by guyina4x4
Tasca seems a bit high on those we got manifold for my sons truck at Autozone for $80, came with gaskets and new studs I used a cheap ebay manifold once, it was like $50, also came with new gaskets and studs I'm pretty sure they were the same
just trying to keep stuff original quality. I doubt he wants to do manifolds again.. I wouldn't.


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