Gears Gears Gears
02-27-2009, 06:11 AM
#21
If you truck still has the tag on the door frame of the driver's side door, there should be a code under the "axle" header. That code will define the ratio of your axle (use your manual that came with the truck....it should have a breakdown list somewhere).
I don't know about the newer ones but my '86 has 3.55s in it. I bought it new with a 6.9 and at around 55 with the 33s on it, it turns around 2200. The other option on that year was 4.10s. It has a 10.25" corporate rearend and there were lots of options with regards to gears. However, if I remember correctly, if you wanted to go lower in the front end, you had to change the carrier in the Dana 44 pumpkin that is up there.
I don't know about the newer ones but my '86 has 3.55s in it. I bought it new with a 6.9 and at around 55 with the 33s on it, it turns around 2200. The other option on that year was 4.10s. It has a 10.25" corporate rearend and there were lots of options with regards to gears. However, if I remember correctly, if you wanted to go lower in the front end, you had to change the carrier in the Dana 44 pumpkin that is up there.
02-27-2009, 06:55 PM
#22
Yeah it's a long...bed =P
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Really it depends on what rpm's u r turning with your current gears. say at 55 mph a stock vehicle usually is somewhere around 1600 to 1800 and i beat your only around 1400 and it kicks in out of overdrive alot on you. i only say this b/c i had the same problem and i chose to put 4.30 in and it did help my mpg's b/c i wasn't lugggn it to death.
03-01-2009, 05:43 PM
#25
Senior Member
Depends...
If you change to 4.10's, do it because you want a little extra power. But if you're doing it for fuel economy, save you're money. You're gonna be near a couple grand for a gear change for both axles. The parts are cheap. The labor is a killer, and it HAS to be done right. That's alot of gas to burn before this even begins to pay for itself. If you like the way the truck runs, and drives, and it does everything you need it to do, I'd leave it alone.
If you change to 4.10's, do it because you want a little extra power. But if you're doing it for fuel economy, save you're money. You're gonna be near a couple grand for a gear change for both axles. The parts are cheap. The labor is a killer, and it HAS to be done right. That's alot of gas to burn before this even begins to pay for itself. If you like the way the truck runs, and drives, and it does everything you need it to do, I'd leave it alone.
Last edited by driver444; 03-01-2009 at 05:45 PM. Reason: additional info
03-01-2009, 06:04 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I can probably do the labor myself, I work at to different shops, and I'm good friends with the owner of one. So I think that will be ok.
The axle is 3 L 73 10.25"
the limited slip probably makes the job twice as hard doesnt it.
The axle is 3 L 73 10.25"
the limited slip probably makes the job twice as hard doesnt it.
03-01-2009, 08:49 PM
#27
Senior Member
The limited slip makes no difference at all in how hard the job is.
They're are many things to know about messing with gears. This is a very precise thing. I really don't mean to try to discourage you, as there is only one way to learn how to do something. There are some special tools you need. (micrometer, inch and foot pound torque wrenches, a dial indicator, bearing press, bearing remover, plastic hammer or mallet) You should get a new ABS sensor ring for the rear end. Get a spare crush sleeve. Get all new bearings and shim kits. Don't put the old stuff back in there.
Go on Randy's Ring and Pinion website and do a little research on this before you tackle it. You'll learn alot there. They have all the bearing cap, and ring gear bolt torque specs, carrier and pinion preload specs, and carrier backlash specs right online. There are many tricks that I learned from old timers about doing gear swaps.
Having said all this, I still recommend this be done by a pro. Most will agree with me on that if nothing else. But if you get into a problem with it. let me know. I've done 2 of these 10.25 axles. I'm pretty familiar.
They're are many things to know about messing with gears. This is a very precise thing. I really don't mean to try to discourage you, as there is only one way to learn how to do something. There are some special tools you need. (micrometer, inch and foot pound torque wrenches, a dial indicator, bearing press, bearing remover, plastic hammer or mallet) You should get a new ABS sensor ring for the rear end. Get a spare crush sleeve. Get all new bearings and shim kits. Don't put the old stuff back in there.
Go on Randy's Ring and Pinion website and do a little research on this before you tackle it. You'll learn alot there. They have all the bearing cap, and ring gear bolt torque specs, carrier and pinion preload specs, and carrier backlash specs right online. There are many tricks that I learned from old timers about doing gear swaps.
Having said all this, I still recommend this be done by a pro. Most will agree with me on that if nothing else. But if you get into a problem with it. let me know. I've done 2 of these 10.25 axles. I'm pretty familiar.