Cmanjr

gonna try to get my brakes flushed here in the next few days, before i redo my front brakes and possibly replace the rear cylinders too even though they aren't leaking.

thinking i might try to get it filled up with DOT 5.1 fluid or DOT 4? what are y'alls thoughts on that?

should i just stick with dot 3/4? like the valvoline DOT 3 & 4 that they sell at Walmart or advance auto

Wolvee

I already talked about this in Post #340 & 342 but it was lost in Brews rapid posts.



Break Fluid is easy,

I tell people to Just use Dot 4LV (Low Viscosity) or 5.1

There's no downside to using D4LV unless you have leaks since lower V. will leak faster. (which shouldn't matter, lol.) LV only really gives you extra help in Cold weather with Anti-lock breaks. If you're in Arizona, Florida or someplace hot like that, there would be no real benefit to it unless you're looking for the higher boiling point. (about 265^)


Dot 3,4, & 5.1 are all Poly Glycol ...all can be interchanged and mixed if you have to.
Dot 5 is Silicone and not comparable with any of the other kinds.


I use 5.1



Dot 5 Compresses because it's made from Silicone and as far as I know, is/was only really used in old cars. That gives you a real spongy soft pedal and not meant for performance.

It doesn't absorb water so it can be stored in the brake lines for long periods of time.

white89gt

This is why I used the Synthetic DOT 3/4 Valvoline. It plays nice with conventional brake fluids. Of course, the fact that I use Valvoline fluids for about everything did play a part in it.

BTW, love the Hillary video.

Cmanjr

Last night I ordered everything for the swap, and just went ahead and got replacement rubber lines for both front sides and the rear center of the axle line.

Got new rotors from advance auto- they were the cheapest and the rotors still look quality, I'll know for sure once they're on the truck. Ordered everything else from RA, should all be here no later than the end of next week.

Wolvee

Many of the rotors on the market come from the same exact assembly lines. Sometimes it's best to have the warranty over the cost of the so-called elite brands. Chances are if they last through the warranty period, and they are sold thick vented rotors, they'll last as long as you need them to.

Cmanjr

And they were definitely thick. Heavy at that, I picked up the two boxes together and wasn't expecting them to weigh some much, caught me off guard lol. But they're definitely nice and thick, friction surfaces have a lot of meat to them. Should last a good long time.

The only thing I'm wondering about is if I'll end up needing or wanting to swap to a dual diaphragm master cylinder, as my current one is obviously the original from the factory and I'm not sure how the pedal feel will be with it.

But I'll leave that for after i get the rest of the brakes installed, if I'm not happy with the pedal feel then I'll upgrade it afterwards.

I'm not doing the rear drums though. I'll take a look at them and inspect them for wear and anything that doesn't look right, but if that checks out I'll leave them be. The cylinders aren't leaking and the drums are working plenty fine from what I can tell, so no point in messing with them if they're working. The ebrake holds strong too, so that's a plus.

white89gt

Where's Brewster's Millions been? Haven't seen him for about a week...

Jbrew

Been cruising. Like those new brakes and shocks so much...can't get away from it.

I think it's wearing off, but yea, very pleased!

DrillRig52

We're the shocks what you expected?

Jbrew

I can't decide which is the best mod I've ever done, the brakes or shocks?

Man do those Fox shocks put Bilstien to shame. I tested them thoroughly, we have some bad roads in certain areas, you can hear the front hitting the rough stuff but you feel nothing. Just like a new ride and that's with the bars cranked !