Extra Battery install.... A guide, sort of!
05-13-2012, 12:33 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Good old Bill
"Once the truck is cranked, the batteries separate. This makes certain that my truck always has voltage and amps to crank reguarless of how much power is out of the primary battery".
With the batteries being seperated as is stated, what is your method for keeping the second battery charged? I'm not trying to be a smart ***, just confused. Keep up the good work, you have a great thread going here.
With the batteries being seperated as is stated, what is your method for keeping the second battery charged? I'm not trying to be a smart ***, just confused. Keep up the good work, you have a great thread going here.
Last edited by ibd2328; 05-13-2012 at 12:50 PM.
05-13-2012, 10:44 PM
#14
Haha maybe to local dealers... This came from a mines, miles and miles of it piled up....
This is part of the 3 phase off the 440v roofbolters.
Wanted some of the 5/0 miner cable, but that **** is like 4lbs a ft. and 4 inches in diameter. Heres the head off of one. They run off 990v, so welding cable just wont support the amps. Those things are beastly.
This is part of the 3 phase off the 440v roofbolters.
Wanted some of the 5/0 miner cable, but that **** is like 4lbs a ft. and 4 inches in diameter. Heres the head off of one. They run off 990v, so welding cable just wont support the amps. Those things are beastly.
05-14-2012, 04:24 PM
#15
Make a template for the battery holder out of some cheap angle iron. Once welded together I suggest using some small "I" beams of "C" channel supports underneath to keep the battery safely secured.
Also note: the battery is super close to the transmission cooler line, so make sure you have something stopping the battery from sliding. You definitely do not want your coolant line leaking for the battery smashing it. The angle iron was perfect for this.
Once you have the template made you can grind off the unwanted tacks on the welds for a clean look. Once that is complete its time to make some brackets to screw into the factory bolt locations that held the wiper fluid. Their are three 3/8" bolts which will securely hold the battery mount, so no need to drill holes in your truck. Below is a picture for reference. I will be using a 1/4 piece of spring steel to hold and secure the template to the factory bolt locations. One will be for stabelizing, the other two will be supports underneath to hold the weight of the battery.
Also note: the battery is super close to the transmission cooler line, so make sure you have something stopping the battery from sliding. You definitely do not want your coolant line leaking for the battery smashing it. The angle iron was perfect for this.
Once you have the template made you can grind off the unwanted tacks on the welds for a clean look. Once that is complete its time to make some brackets to screw into the factory bolt locations that held the wiper fluid. Their are three 3/8" bolts which will securely hold the battery mount, so no need to drill holes in your truck. Below is a picture for reference. I will be using a 1/4 piece of spring steel to hold and secure the template to the factory bolt locations. One will be for stabelizing, the other two will be supports underneath to hold the weight of the battery.
05-14-2012, 09:19 PM
#16
if was mine i would change the new battery tray to something lil heavier gauge metal batterys pretty heavy and with vibrations and bumps and things you need it supported good
05-14-2012, 09:37 PM
#18
Thats not the actual tray lol. As stated, its a "template". I would never use galvanized angle iron to support a battery. Its used to "cup" the battery in then run two pieces of flat bar over the top. If you can see in that picture of the garage, I will be using the stainless steel "I" bar for holding the battery.
Also, I don't see an isolator? I would hope your batteries are of the same ampers and you have a decent size alt?
And one more thing. Hows that audio wire hold up? I've never been a fan of the copper/alum plad strands they use. Have you checked any of it with a DMM?
05-15-2012, 06:53 AM
#19
i have had this set up since 2003 the 0 gauge wire does great. i didnt put an isolator on this one. i did it when had it in my jeep and ran dual batterys n seem to have lots of problems wit it. i have a aftermarket alternator thats over 200 amps. i run 6 viair 480 air compressors, my old stereo had 3 1000d crossfire amps and a crossfire 404. no probs at all. yea everything runs 14.4 volts no issues
05-15-2012, 04:16 PM
#20
i have had this set up since 2003 the 0 gauge wire does great. i didnt put an isolator on this one. i did it when had it in my jeep and ran dual batterys n seem to have lots of problems wit it. i have a aftermarket alternator thats over 200 amps. i run 6 viair 480 air compressors, my old stereo had 3 1000d crossfire amps and a crossfire 404. no probs at all. yea everything runs 14.4 volts no issues
However, my goal is completely different than your setup. I only want a back up battery for starting and using a winch. It will be a completely different circuit than the one used for the truck and accessories. If one battery is dead, it has no affect on the other.
My 180 amp alt is more than enough current to power my accessories. Just want a back up for when i am out in the woods. This way I can leave my stereo or lights on, until failure(if needed). Then use my other battery for emergengy starting situations.