Exhaust manifold studs
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Exhaust manifold studs
I have a stud that busted off and I am looking at replacing it today. I am looking at the other bolts and they are facing off like they are a part of the block that the manifold sits on and you bolt it up. From the videos I watched that is not how it is, but they where different vehicles. My main question is how are these bolts connected and do I have to take the manifold off to replace the stud?
The stud its self broke about 3/4" in, any tips on how to extract it?
The stud its self broke about 3/4" in, any tips on how to extract it?
#2
Senior Member
I suggest drilling it out and using an extractor kit. Center punch the broken bolt, start with a small drill bit and work your way up, then use an extractor bit to get the bolt out. You have to be VERY careful not to damage the head though. I'll be taking on this project with two broken studs next week. Luckily, the engine is on a stand, so I don't have to fight with these bolts from the wheel well.
Here's a video that might help you:
Here's a video that might help you:
#3
Senior Member
Also, the studs are not part of the block. The factory studs screw into the head and then the manifold slips over them and is secured by a nut. Most of my studs came out with the nut, but some of them stayed in the head while the nut came off. I used a lot of PB Blaster and let it soak for a long time. Do not force them, the more studs you break...the more work you will have to do.
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Red-Ford (05-04-2015)
#4
Senior Member
Had the same problem. Stud broke off just out of the block but below the surface of the manifold. Soaked the rest with liquid wrench then ran the engine for a bit and then soaked again to sit overnight. With penetrating oil the more the merrier, and time is an asset, the longer the better. The rest came out just fine. I screwed a nut slightly larger onto the broken stud after the manifold was off, then used a mig welder and plug welded the inside of the nut to the stud and then unscrewed it with ease. Let it cool down and shrink first though.
#6
2010 F150. Has been knocking for a long time, took in to dealer service. "it's nothing". Now after warranty has expired, and knocking noise has increased, They say manifold exhaust bolts broken, $4000.00 repair. Time to trade? 64,000 miles.
#7
Junior Member
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#8
Senior Member
$4k to repair the manifold studs? That cant be right....
#9
Senior Member
Just for future work on anything that needs penetrating lube, mix ATF and acetone 50/50 in a spray bottle and apply like you would normally. Works far better than Any penetrating lube you can buy.
#10
LOL. I have stuff that works for better than that. ATF and acetone contradict each other.