If you are running a lean code, an o2 sensor code, or you have a leak in your exhaust some repair shops will charge you an arm and a leg to do the repair for you. Some people get nervous around trying to tackle the job themselves but doing so will save you some money and it isnít as difficult as it may look.
For all of you that are afraid to tackle the exhaust leak problem yourself, I have a tip for you. I know it has been stated before, but let me reiterate the fact. SPRAY THOSE STUDS DOWN WITH PB BLASTER!!! I was nervous to do this myself, but when I shop quoted me $350 before parts, I decided it was a no brainer to at least try myself. The worst that could happen - I break a stud and they have to do it anyways...the leak couldn't have gotten any worse! The truck was already throwing a lean code and o2 sensor code since the leak had gotten so bad.
I sprayed the studs very generously with PB Blaster, and let it do some soaking. Then I drove the truck again, and sprayed them down again. While still fairly warm, I started seeing how many studs would break. To my surprise, I was able to loosen each and every one! So that morning, it was off to the parts store and stealership to get a new manifold, studs/nuts, and EGR line (you will most likely need a new one if you are doing your driver's side). Then I brought it up to the shop I work at, put it on the lift (makes life a lot easier!), and went to work. Only about 3 hours later, my truck doesn't leak a single bit, and now I can enjoy the dual exhaust sound again instead of an annoying tick! It sounded like a tractor at startup. The only stud that didn't come out was the bottom back one, so I just put a new nut on it and called it good...figured if it wasn't too corroded that the nut was able to come off, than it wasn't too corroded to just stay in there.
After all of the parts, I was in it for under $300. I was so happy that my truck cooperated with me, that she's getting some new Cooper ST's put on tonight
But again guys, don't be afraid to try this yourself and save a few bucks. If I had leaks on both sides, I probably would have gone with some shorty headers, but this leak needed fixing asap, so an OEM manifold went back in place.
1968 Ford Mustang Fastback - Blueprint 302
1995 Ford Mustang GT -347
1993 Ford Bronco - 4" lift 35"s
2005 Lexus ES330 - Wifey's
2014 F150 Ecoboost - Boostin'
Holy hell! Very cheap indeed I take it they were able to reuse the manifold/egr, and didn't have any studs break? I even had one shop turn away the job because they didn't want to do it
Yes they did reuse the stock manifold (lightly resurfaced it) but they did break 3 studs in the process. When they qouted me the price I about crapped my pants...took it to them the next day and the were done that afternoon. That place rocks man
my passenger side manifold ticks like a tractor, and its getting steadily worse. im just too lazy/scared to do anything about it. i know i have the ability.. ive done harder on my old yota... im just waiting until i get an actual 'weekend' to tackle the job. (i dont get 2 consecutive days off). so far ive tightened all the bolts, as when my yota was doing it, the bolts were loose, but the ONE on the bottom corner of the manifold closest to the front of the truck, seems to be stripped, and thats where i suspect the leak is coming from. half tempted to take it off, replace the bolt, put antiseize on it, and put that sucker on as tight as it will go... for anyone reading this thread and are in the same bolt.. check the bolts/nuts before you go and replace the whole thing.. maybe save u some cash.