ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Only see one thing wrong. Some of the 8 thread heads have the same part # as pictured above. My 03 does anyways.

Jbrew

Soooo..what's wrong with that ? Just curious

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Haha mine is a mystery. Heads were cast after the aforementioned date but I have one with 8 threads and the other with 4 threads.

Jbrew

Your kidding, - were they a set to begin with? Funny, all the 03's I've seen had 4 thread heads as well.

Perhaps half way thru 03 Ford decided to get rid of their old stock (heads).
Either that or , reaching the botom of the pile. Iduno, it's not my fault..I didn't do it.

There must be some explanation ? I could keep guessing. That would be fun..for awhile.

Tractive55LS

-I noticed on the RockAuto site that there are two sets of Felpro intake gaskets available for 03'. One looks thicker and has an extra gasket. I've always preferred Felpro gaskets. That 2nd more expensive set for $57.00+ may be the updated one?

-I wonder if the individual part number are on the heads? Verification.

-I'll check those printed manufacture dates today and post results.

-I just looked at the latest plugs from Ford, they are iridium tipped with platinum support base and a nickel plated ground electrode. The NGK's look good with platinum ground electrode and iridium tip. I've alway been told that Motorcract or Autolites (both made Honeywell) are the only plugs that will work well in these engines. My experiences with Boush platimums are all bad, the center electrode always burns back into the insulator on ever vehicle I' tried them in.

- I did know about the PI swap to the older block gains more compression/power, but in my case, my OE 2v is shot/worn out and has to come out. That's why I choose a tested salvage 03' PI engine. I can't afford a new reman and then spend more on 03 heads and intake $$$$$'s.

- Here's the info I have on the plastic intakes used by Ford: Intake manifold defect[edit]
Starting in 1996, Ford began installing a DuPont Zytel nylon-composite intake manifold onto the 2-valve SOHC engines. Plaintiffs in class action lawsuits alleged that the coolant crossover passage of these intake manifolds may crack, resulting in coolant leakage. A US class-action suit was filed on behalf of owners, resulting in a settlement announced on December 17, 2005.[citation needed]

Starting with the 2002 model year, and implemented halfway through the 2001 lineup, Ford began using a revised DuPont Zytel nylon-composite intake manifold with an aluminum front coolant crossover that corrected the issue. Replacement intakes were also made available for 1996–2001 engines.[49] To be eligible for reimbursement, owners needed to contact a Ford, Lincoln or Mercury dealer within 90 days of December 16, 2005. Further, Ford offered an extended warranty for this part, for seven years from the start date (which means the initial vehicle sale date) without a mileage limitation.

I plan on installing some new gaskets and seals in the 03' before installing:
-Front seal. Felpro.
-Rear seal, Felpro, improved design.
-Intake manifold, Fepro or Ford since it has to come our anyways.
-Oil filter adapter & oil cooler if any.
-Valve cove gaskets, Felpro.
-New valve stem seals, Felpro, improved design.
-Spark plugs, Motorcraft SP479 or NGK iridium/platinum.
-03' EGR tube, Standard SS $56.00. Or Ford if I could find one cheaper than the dealer: XL3Z9D477BA $85.00 plus tax, toooo much $

Jbrew

I like Felpro as well, for most gaskets anyway, BUT,- Intake (upper/lower/plenum) and head gaskets I'll use different suppliers. I trust/value past experiences and info to guide me in the correct direction. Doesn't everybody? When you say, "one looks thicker" , sounds like Felpro could be totally updated by now and most likely are. However, it didn't use to be that way and Ford was pretty much on top of it with their revisions. Since 1998 Ford gaskets and seals were just about second to none. I say 98 because they finally improved their Trans/oil pan gaskets to withstand the harsher synthetics available back then. Since then the synthetic formulas have changed for the better and are easier on gasket material. It's a win win. For head gaskets I like Victor Reinz gaskets for much of the same reasons.

Yea, cool, - post back that info you find out about the heads on the that engine

Hard to see without removing the inner fender wells (easy to remove). You might be able to tho. Perhaps with an inspection light and mirror. First, check out the drivers side...back outside corner.
Geezzz, where do I start

Yea, I went round and round with Autolite way back when. -I'll skip the story for now and just spit the facts. The reply you have from Autolite is absolutely correct... Can be a little misleading, if you don't give it much thought, which is why it was created. First, I'll enlarge the text to make a little easier to read, -

"As a division of the Honeywell Corporation, Autolite is the manufacturer responsible for the production of all Motorcraft spark plugs in North America for the Ford Motor Company. Both Autolite and Ford/Motorcraft spark plugs are built to quality standards using quality components. Autolite manufacture's the Motorcraft plugs based on the specific design requirements of the Ford Motor Company. Autolite and Motorcraft spark plugs are manufactured side by side at our facility in Northern Ohio"


Yea, it's just a matter of what they dont say,-



By no means are Autolite spark plugs manufactured to the same specifications as Ford Motor Company/Motorcraft spark plugs. Therefore, you take your chances when using them in Ford Motor Company's Modular Motor line up.

All that said, some have gotten away with using them. How good the engine the ran while doing so is definitely questionable. Some engines and I've experienced this as well, did't run right from the get go. The plugs couldn't handle the heat range in the COP'ed ignition models. They heated up and changed colors and went down hill fast. Began misfiring within the first 50 miles. (I have a pic of that somewhere).


Anyway, avoid them all together. Given the choice, I'd run Denso Iridium plugs in these NA trucks. Personal favorite, impressive design and IMO, -age better.


Makes perfect sense. How many miles are on that one? Personally I wouldn't go reman...ever. I'd rather have a used low mileage proven engine. Since you can test before your buy with the right tools. And at least a 3 month warranty. That's all you need if you have the know-how IMO.
HAA!
"Starting with the 2002 model year, and implemented halfway through the 2001 lineup, Ford began using a revised DuPont Zytel nylon-composite intake manifold with an aluminum front coolant crossover that corrected the issue."

That ^^^ I didn't know or plum forgot. Thought it was just the 03's that got the update for some reason. (?)

Sounds good!

It's a pleasure helping someone out that's smart enough to do the research themselves. Usually isn't the case.

Tractive55LS

Quote:
"Makes perfect sense. How many miles are on that one? Personally I wouldn't go reman...ever. I'd rather have a used low mileage proven engine. Since you can test before your buy with the right tools. And at least a 3 month warranty. That's all you need if you have the know-how IMO."

On the Spk. Plugs, everyone forever that I've seen on many of these forums says these engines won't run right on anything but Motorcraft plugs? I just put a set of the iridiums in our Subaru Forester. I think too that there are two different levels of (for the 03'F150) Denso Iridium plugs offered on Rockauto.com as well.

The used salvage engine, I got using Car-part.com. I called them after narrowing down the field of other prospects on the site for year and model. I asked them to: Check the color of the oil, Do a compression test, List any leaks, Note any broken exhaust manifold studs, and do an oil pressure test and send pics. They forgot or were too busy to do the oil pres. test but did the rest. Compression test yielded an average of 185 psi over all 8 cyls. Everything else they checked looked good. It was a 2 owner truck with 109,000 miles on it. I even did a Carfax on it to check it's history. They sent pics. of the light crash it was in, frankly it could have been fixed pretty easily: RF quarter panel. I negotiated a total price of $1200.00 including $100.00 freight shipping directly into my garage, where it still sits on a pallet and tire.

Break....

Just went out to look: It's (03") all in plastic strapped down to the pallet and tire. The tire is mostly covering up the driver-side and pass. portion of the block. This is the only pic I got off the driver side valve cover, not absolutely sure if the block differs?

So your saying go with the Ford intake gasket over the Felpro? Jbrew, go to Rockauto.com and look up 03' F150 (L) gas, engine section... intake manifold gasket, and you'll see what I'm talking about with the two different Felpro intakes gaskets. There is a cheaper one for about $26.00 and a more expensive one with an extra gasket for $57.00 the latter appears thicker and I think I read it's to help seal better with the problems Ford had with the intakes, improved design?

Jbrew

So much is true. Well, Motorcraft Spark Plugs are the fail safe go to. Probably because bad replacements, -Bosch, Autolite, Champion etc exist.
Motorcraft,just in last 4 years or so began offering Iridium's. Iridium is king when it comes to spark plug wear metals/materials used. When a plug wears, the gap increases as you may know. So the vehicle may be running under par, if your attempting to get as much out the plugs that you can. Not to long ago Motorcraft didn't offer an Iridium design. Correction for the 4.6L's Motorcraft had a fine iridium as well as for the 5.4L's but, that's only if your 5.4 ran on propane..
It may be different now with Motorcrafts newer Iridium design and like I said earlier, you can't go wrong with Motorcraft. Realize, there was a select few that were a little ahead of Morotcraft plugs and I can't honestly speak for what Motorcrafts offering now since I've never tested or analyzed them yet myself. So yea, they may be the best now...who knows? I know the lightning guys still prefer the NGK's = TR6 Iridiums.
Yea that who I've used in the past Car-part.com t narrow it down, then just call the local yards to see if they have something nicer in the back lol.

Yea, oil color won't tell you anything, -unless it's white, yellow or chunky. It's usually black. Ford just don't leak anymore, unless you mistreat them. Then again, they're fairly resilient.


No broken exhaust manifold bolts is a good sign, just make absolutely make sure you install a new transmission mount in the 98 or that will change... quickly.

Compression test averaged 185psi ehh. That's great! I'd still want to see each cylinder reading to make sure lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the highest reading. I'd want to test it cold upon delivery...that's important. Test each cylinder in the exact same way.



Yea, that's a great price IMO! Sounds like a nice engine. That mileage don't mean a thing if the simple maintenance was performed in the past. Hopefully they used good oil filters on it..just filters that worked as advertised. Sounds good tho.


Breaker Breaker
99-03 5four blocks are the same, some 04. Some have Forged cranks, I think yours in one of them.
If you go with Felpro get the PermaDryPlus set for 57. Personally , I wouldn't chance it and go with a Ford set.

Tractive55LS

Quote:
"Breaker Breaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tractive55LS
Just went out to look: It's (03") all in plastic strapped down to the pallet and tire. The tire is mostly covering up the driver-side and pass. portion of the block. This is the only pic I got off the driver side valve cover, not absolutely sure if the block differs?
99-03 5four blocks are the same, some 04. Some have Forged cranks, I think yours in one of them."

I was talking about the numbers/date on the left valve cover (pic) I took, as opposed to the printed number you said to look for on the left rear driver side part of the block next to the PI mark.

Carfax indicated several dealer maintenance visits, one gas tank strap recall. Looks like good service. I had that (recalled straps, one of them was ready to break off) done on mine as well after installing a new gas tank and FP assembly, also coating the new tank in truck bed coating to keep it from rusting out again. The gap between the bed and cab sits right over a low spot on the OE tank letting water and salt accumulate there rusting them out, no more. Just have to put the factory fuel tank skid plate back on when I get time.

As I remember, all the cylinder were very close after the compression test. I lost the e'mail after our new ISP screwed up my Macmail and erased years of emails!

Good heads-up on the tranny mount. I'll get a new Anchor 2871 4WD for $10.99. @ RA.

NGK IX Iridiums look better than the MC SP479's.

Can't wait to pull a plug and see how many threads?

I'm going to get a Rubbermaid storage bin and strip all the OE 03' stuff off the newer engine and save in case anything is needed, then install all the new gaskets and seals accept the intake for after it's installed. When I uncover the printed date code, I'll post it.

Q: On the water outlet tube in the block valley, is that sealed on the front side with an O-ring, since it's a steel tube, or a short piece of rubber hose?

Found it!, luckily it was on my other email address. I little less PSI than I remember but still good I think for a 03' PI 5.4L with 109,000 on the clock? I was a year ago after all:

Front of engine
LH: 170 175 180 175
RH: 180 175 180 175


Averaged all 8: 176.5 psi.

Jbrew

Dang man, you need to learn how to quote someone. To multi quote the same person, you have to re-use the user name before what your quoting and a new "[/QUOTE]" at the end, uknow, - around exactly what your referring to.

It's somethen to do with forum etiquette, - if you give a rats snot that is. Prsonally, I really don't give a frogs fat *** to tell the truth...IF you couldn't guess, -but you might one day.

You can also, -just skip that craps all together and split her up thiz way, -

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Cam-covers or Valve-covers?

What is says of the cam cover's (they're really not valve covers on SOHC and DOHC motors. Users still know what your referring to, -and you're correct, -but valve covers is old school more less as that happened before OHC's were in the picture. ..just so you know.) can have nothing to do with the heads really. Just unwrap that friggen engine would yuh, what's holding you back ? You waiting for Christmas

Yea, the cam cover sticker is a good hint for you, but to confirm, you have to get the info off the heads.

BTW- I didn't say look at the block, - said look at the heads or at least that's what I meant. Exactly like the picture I posted.
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That's cool on the Carfax and fuel tank stuff
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With Macs you have to do integrated backups or do manually (which sucks and you forget) But there's away..actually quite a few ways to protect your mail for a PC and Mac. PM me about that.

Good deal on the tranny mount. You'll see why after removing the old and comparing to the new. A bad tranny mount will snap your exhaust studs like a twig lol. When they go bad the trans sinks and pulls the Y with it. That stresses the rear studs. Also a bad tranny mount will make it's own vibration issues which involve exhaust manifold studs and anywhere else the vibration transfers to..like your cat heat shields....etc..
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Never heard of NGK IX's. I'll take your word for it.

Yea, I'm curious how many threads you have in the plug chambers as well.
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Iduno, might not want to strip all the 03 stuff from the engine yet. It me be easier to compare it with the 98 harness that way. Leave one intact until you have to remove would be best IMO. And that would be the 03 of course. Yea, you want to see how much of that 03 harness you can use. Use all the 03 stuff you can. If somethings different between the two, then use the 98 just where the change is...know what I mean ? Don't get stuck in a rut later because you screwed up somehow here, there might not be much help later if you do. Cover your *** and take lots of pictures with just about every thing you do...before and after. That can be a lifesaver or in this case an engine.
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Depends, you'll have to look at it. Ford updated that connection on their re-manufactured engines. Actually there's a picture of that in every Chilton's manual if you own one. Never use Chilton/Haynes for anything if you can help it...but yea they have a pic in there. So the 03 may be upgraded. If it's upgraded then yes, there will be a rubber hose connecting to the water pump stem. If not, the heater core hardline will slide over two o rings on the stem. Yea I'm not sure if that upgrade ever went into production...should have, -it was a poor design.

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Looks good, like I said before as long as your 75% within the highest reading. 75% of 180 is what 135psi so your good. Numbers are great!