Engine hesitating under acceleration
09-21-2014, 08:17 PM
#11
Resistance/ohms don't tell yuh squat unless they are completely fried. Unfortunately, COP system coils don't go out that way. They slowly burn turns in the wire, copper windings (turns) like say you would find in a transformer. Windings are spooled together for the most part (not all, -step tf) so resistance tests are going to point a low grade misfire.
Any kind of hesitation is a misfire. The cause can be different. What guys are doing now to narrow it down is retrieving live data via Android phone and the Torque or Torque pro app. It was a $5 download on line, not sure now.
That will show you live cylinder info, so when it's missing, you'll see where. Doesn't mean it's a coil necessarily, but it will narrow down quite a bit. The misfire monitor itself won't pick it up until the count is high enough. Which doesn't help most of the time...
Any kind of hesitation is a misfire. The cause can be different. What guys are doing now to narrow it down is retrieving live data via Android phone and the Torque or Torque pro app. It was a $5 download on line, not sure now.
That will show you live cylinder info, so when it's missing, you'll see where. Doesn't mean it's a coil necessarily, but it will narrow down quite a bit. The misfire monitor itself won't pick it up until the count is high enough. Which doesn't help most of the time...
09-21-2014, 08:21 PM
#12
Senior Member
BTW- With the way you describe it makes it sort of confusing. What do you mean you hear it thru the exhaust ? Not sure what to make of that?
If it's missing from idle up under normal acceleration, yea that's not very common. Could still be a coil in theary and to do with the way it's shorting out. When the problem is at idle, -no load, - sounds like it's more of an EGR poppet valve problem. Is that what it is doing ? For sure lol ? Be as accurate as you can I guess.
If it's missing from idle up under normal acceleration, yea that's not very common. Could still be a coil in theary and to do with the way it's shorting out. When the problem is at idle, -no load, - sounds like it's more of an EGR poppet valve problem. Is that what it is doing ? For sure lol ? Be as accurate as you can I guess.
09-21-2014, 08:23 PM
#13
Senior Member
Crap that's right, those aren't cheap, if you don't have one yet. They might be cheaper now, not sure.
09-21-2014, 08:26 PM
#14
I was looking at some. It depends on how much options you want to have. They sell some USB connectors to use with a laptop.
Last edited by jayta98; 09-21-2014 at 08:40 PM.
09-21-2014, 08:39 PM
#15
BTW- With the way you describe it makes it sort of confusing. What do you mean you hear it thru the exhaust ? Not sure what to make of that?
If it's missing from idle up under normal acceleration, yea that's not very common. Could still be a coil in theary and to do with the way it's shorting out. When the problem is at idle, -no load, - sounds like it's more of an EGR poppet valve problem. Is that what it is doing ? For sure lol ? Be as accurate as you can I guess.
If it's missing from idle up under normal acceleration, yea that's not very common. Could still be a coil in theary and to do with the way it's shorting out. When the problem is at idle, -no load, - sounds like it's more of an EGR poppet valve problem. Is that what it is doing ? For sure lol ? Be as accurate as you can I guess.
This is the sound I hear a few times from a cold start. Now this noise on the air filter doesn't happen all the time.
http://vid811.photobucket.com/albums...ps1fe64dc3.mp4
09-21-2014, 08:44 PM
#16
Senior Member
Did you check the vacuum elbow at the back of the intake manifold? The line comes off of the Pass side valve cover and goes to the back of the intake plenum. It's a PIFA to get to, but it sounds like what was going on with my truck. I didn't see if you had taken off the throttle position sensor and Idle Air Control valve and cleaned or replaced them. You might try that...
09-21-2014, 08:54 PM
#17
Senior Member
Yea, the MAF is positioned incorrectly. Remove that K&N filter crap...everything between the MAF cylinder and driver side inner fender. It's junk and it will screw you over eventually.
Turn the MAF cylinder so that it's plug is pointing down. You going to have to clean that MAF by hand after running that filter set-up.
Anyway, cut about 3/4 of your stock plastic MAF housing off, install a nano fiber filter in your original factory CAI filter hosing w/gotts mod.
Then, you'll most likely NEVER have to change the filter or clean the MAF. Both filter and MAF stay clean and flow. The engine will consistently have the correct amount of clean air on demand and MAF will always cipher correctly.
Keep that K&N tube tho, that's the only part that's good lol.
Turn the MAF cylinder so that it's plug is pointing down. You going to have to clean that MAF by hand after running that filter set-up.
Anyway, cut about 3/4 of your stock plastic MAF housing off, install a nano fiber filter in your original factory CAI filter hosing w/gotts mod.
Then, you'll most likely NEVER have to change the filter or clean the MAF. Both filter and MAF stay clean and flow. The engine will consistently have the correct amount of clean air on demand and MAF will always cipher correctly.
Keep that K&N tube tho, that's the only part that's good lol.
09-21-2014, 08:55 PM
#18
Did you check the vacuum elbow at the back of the intake manifold? The line comes off of the Pass side valve cover and goes to the back of the intake plenum. It's a PIFA to get to, but it sounds like what was going on with my truck. I didn't see if you had taken off the throttle position sensor and Idle Air Control valve and cleaned or replaced them. You might try that...
09-21-2014, 08:58 PM
#19
Yea, the MAF is positioned incorrectly. Remove that K&N filter crap...everything between the MAF cylinder and driver side inner fender. It's junk and it will screw you over eventually.
Turn the MAF cylinder so that it's plug is pointing down. You going to have to clean that MAF by hand after running that filter set-up.
Anyway, cut about 3/4 of your stock plastic MAF housing off, install a nano fiber filter in your original factory CAI filter hosing w/gotts mod.
Then, you'll most likely NEVER have to change the filter or clean the MAF. Both filter and MAF stay clean and flow. The engine will consistently have the correct amount of clean air on demand and MAF will always cipher correctly.
Keep that K&N tube tho, that's the only part that's good lol.
Turn the MAF cylinder so that it's plug is pointing down. You going to have to clean that MAF by hand after running that filter set-up.
Anyway, cut about 3/4 of your stock plastic MAF housing off, install a nano fiber filter in your original factory CAI filter hosing w/gotts mod.
Then, you'll most likely NEVER have to change the filter or clean the MAF. Both filter and MAF stay clean and flow. The engine will consistently have the correct amount of clean air on demand and MAF will always cipher correctly.
Keep that K&N tube tho, that's the only part that's good lol.
The KN filter was nastier when I got it and it was working fine.
09-21-2014, 09:00 PM
#20
I know im not a fan of the KN stuff but it came with the truck. I'm trying to get the stock set up in a junk yard. I did clean the MAF today with MAF cleaner. You are saying the MAF is not correct? This is not causing the issue right?
The KN filter was nastier when I got it and it was working fine.
The KN filter was nastier when I got it and it was working fine.