Topic Sponsor
1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Engine Builders talk.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-23-2014, 01:07 PM
  #211  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jprevat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13,783
Received 1,353 Likes on 1,070 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ibd2328
No need for a lightning crank.. Your factory forged is the same.

Don't see any reason for porting heads if you are going N/A and not looking for huge numbers.

I would go with a very slight dished piston -10 or -7 Compression would be great for a NA enginge with a good set of cams.
Is the -7 or -10 referring to the cc? I like the direction jferg is going.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:13 PM
  #212  
4v > 2v
 
MyFX4Project's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,975
Received 97 Likes on 91 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ibd2328

You have stock cams?
Stock exhaust. 98 cobra intake. So yeah.
Old 04-23-2014, 04:39 PM
  #213  
Senior Member
 
jferg92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 10,731
Received 171 Likes on 162 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jprevat

Is the -7 or -10 referring to the cc? I like the direction jferg is going.
Yes. The dish of the piston. I don't want to go extreme. Probably a 10:1 compression. I'd like to make power staying naturally aspirated but want to have the potential to boost it in a year or two
Old 04-23-2014, 04:51 PM
  #214  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
fordmotorsport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,733
Received 56 Likes on 54 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jferg92
Yes. The dish of the piston. I don't want to go extreme. Probably a 10:1 compression. I'd like to make power staying naturally aspirated but want to have the potential to boost it in a year or two
You might want to stay around 9 or 9.5:1 with a built bottom. I mean if you plan to boost
Old 04-23-2014, 05:05 PM
  #215  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
ibd2328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Received 523 Likes on 386 Posts

Default

Yea, I would agree if you don't go with dyno tunning
Old 04-23-2014, 05:08 PM
  #216  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
ibd2328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Received 523 Likes on 386 Posts

Default

Welding should be cake now.

Engine Builders talk.-image-3030686736.jpg



Engine Builders talk.-image-3572930060.jpg
Old 04-23-2014, 05:12 PM
  #217  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
ibd2328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Received 523 Likes on 386 Posts

Default

Haha just takes a fork lift to move it.
Old 04-23-2014, 05:20 PM
  #218  
Senior Member
 
charliedyal's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Fl
Posts: 2,926
Received 144 Likes on 134 Posts

Default

Take some of your spare parts and fab an axle. Rolling is sooo much easier.
Old 04-23-2014, 05:25 PM
  #219  
4v > 2v
 
MyFX4Project's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,975
Received 97 Likes on 91 Posts
Default

Still didnt get an answer to my question... come on guys...
Old 04-23-2014, 05:31 PM
  #220  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
ibd2328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Received 523 Likes on 386 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by MyFX4Project
Most people sleep at night. I was at work lol And back to the convos.. I have a question. I will be installing my cams and cam towers myself along with secondary and primary chains and tensioners. Do I need to use a degree tool to line them all up correctly or can I just use the teeth on the gears and line up all the timing marks. I dont need to advance or retard them at all just need them to work like stock lol
It's def safer with a degree tool. But doable without it. Since you aren't advancing or retarding it, just line the dots up. Hopefully the cobra cams are the cog.


Quick Reply: Engine Builders talk.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:29 AM.