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Old 06-23-2014, 11:43 AM   #1031
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Originally Posted by jferg92 View Post
Thanks. I've yet to take anything apart because ups STILL hasn't got back to me
Well you can tell by looking at the baseplate of the blower, not the intake. See if the look straight across from one another
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:02 PM   #1032
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Yeah check out blower bolt holes. I believe the location of the iat2 sensor differs from 99,00 models and 01+ models. If im remembering correctly 99 & 00 have the sensor in the drivers side of the manifold, where later models have them on the pass side. That's another way to check. If u have a complete 99 00 setup make sure you pressure test the intercooler before installing everything. 99 00 models have a recall for leaking intercoolers
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:05 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordmotorsport View Post

Well you can tell by looking at the baseplate of the blower, not the intake. See if the look straight across from one another
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dave View Post
Yeah check out blower bolt holes. I believe the location of the iat2 sensor differs from 99,00 models and 01+ models. If im remembering correctly 99 & 00 have the sensor in the drivers side of the manifold, where later models have them on the pass side. That's another way to check. If u have a complete 99 00 setup make sure you pressure test the intercooler before installing everything. 99 00 models have a recall for leaking intercoolers
Ok thanks guys. I knew the 99-00 were recalls and I read somewhere the 01s had a bad batch of leaking ICs. I'm pretty the sensor is on the passenger side iirc
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:27 PM   #1034
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I've the got the two piece oem motorcraft for the drivers side but unsure of fitment of them with headers. I want a leak free guarantee lol
There's a few bases to cover and things to know to achieve that. Quite a few mechanics/techs get this wrong. Not entirely their fault, - some of this stuff is vehicle model specific.

First,-

At around 100,000 miles, you need to check motor mounts and trans mount. What usually turns up bad is trans mount wear (can be completely wore out @ 100k). Motor mounts will most likely be okay and last the life of the vehicle.

When the trans mount gets bad, bushing disintegrates, the entire trans/ transfer case sinks and settles metal to metal on the crossbar. The exhaust Y is tied to the transmission via hanger that sits above the bushing. So when the the trans sinks it's puts pressure on the rear exhaust studs, -in most cases the studs usually break off from this stress. So check that out first.

I wouldn't use Doubles or Triples, - Motorcraft anyway for headers. You should always use header gaskets. The gaskets SHOULD be either supplied or recommended by the header manufacturer or don't by their headers.

My headers came with gaskets and have never leaked, install in 07. These are silicon header gaskets (paper type). These go on w/Permatex Gold.

Headers must be tightened from the inside out or they WILL leak. That's the only way. Also, the exhaust Y can not be under stress connecting the two. Everything must line up or you will most likely have problems in the future.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:57 PM   #1035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbrew View Post

There's a few bases to cover and things to know to achieve that. Quite a few mechanics/techs get this wrong. Not entirely their fault, - some of this stuff is vehicle model specific.

First,-

At around 100,000 miles, you need to check motor mounts and trans mount. What usually turns up bad is trans mount wear (can be completely wore out @ 100k). Motor mounts will most likely be okay and last the life of the vehicle.

When the trans mount gets bad, bushing disintegrates, the entire trans/ transfer case sinks and settles metal to metal on the crossbar. The exhaust Y is tied to the transmission via hanger that sits above the bushing. So when the the trans sinks it's puts pressure on the rear exhaust studs, -in most cases the studs usually break off from this stress. So check that out first.

I wouldn't use Doubles or Triples, - Motorcraft anyway for headers. You should always use header gaskets. The gaskets SHOULD be either supplied or recommended by the header manufacturer or don't by their headers.

My headers came with gaskets and have never leaked, install in 07. These are silicon header gaskets (paper type). These go on w/Permatex Gold.

Headers must be tightened from the inside out or they WILL leak. That's the only way. Also, the exhaust Y can not be under stress connecting the two. Everything must line up or you will most likely have problems in the future.
Thanks for the info jbrew. A couple questions.

Would you suggest tying the y pipe hanger in somewhere else since it will all be replaced header back?

And it seems maybe the proper torque procedure and hardware is more important than the gasket? Two LTs I've looked at both provide paper gaskets.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:04 PM   #1036
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From my experience, it was near impossible to get any type of torque sequence or patten on the headers. I had to do whatever i could reach. Definetly need some u joints, wobble sockets, and ratcheting wrenches.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:06 PM   #1037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordmotorsport View Post

Well you can tell by looking at the baseplate of the blower, not the intake. See if the look straight across from one another
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dave View Post
Yeah check out blower bolt holes. I believe the location of the iat2 sensor differs from 99,00 models and 01+ models. If im remembering correctly 99 & 00 have the sensor in the drivers side of the manifold, where later models have them on the pass side. That's another way to check. If u have a complete 99 00 setup make sure you pressure test the intercooler before installing everything. 99 00 models have a recall for leaking intercoolers
Upon further inspection (not much else to do during a power outage) bolts are parallel as well the the IAt sensor on the passenger side. I did a little reading and it looks like the very early 01s just said eaton on them but the whole setup does verify a complete 01 system
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:12 PM   #1038
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Still have 70-75% of everything needed for a blower swap off a 2003 HD with less than 24k miles for sale. Stock/Modified/Aftermarket Parts.

Wayne
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:36 PM   #1039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dave View Post
From my experience, it was near impossible to get any type of torque sequence or patten on the headers. I had to do whatever i could reach. Definetly need some u joints, wobble sockets, and ratcheting wrenches.
If you use the header bolts recommended for headers, -you can use a ratchet wrench on most from under the vehicle. Just don't reef them all down right off. For a perfect fit, it'll take at least 3 heat cycles. You should re-torque right after complete cool down.

That's ^^ in case you didn't know. Yea, -having the correct hardware and wrench helps.

Torque Wrench ? No No, not here.
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Last edited by Jbrew; 06-23-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:51 PM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbrew View Post

If you use the header bolts recommended for headers, -you can use a ratchet wrench on most from under the vehicle. Just don't reef them all down right off. For a perfect fit, it'll take at least 3 heat cycles. You should re-torque right after complete cool down.

That's ^^ in case you didn't know. Yea, -having the correct hardware and wrench helps.

Torque Wrench ? No No, not here.
The drivers side looks halfway easy. Atleast from the top. I'm trying to do it as cheap as possible from a labor aspect. Load it on the trailer. Then take the manifolds and cats off. Tow It to my mechanic who can weld out whatever studs I can't get out. Bolt up the headers then tow it to the exhaust shop.

I was quoted $275 for him bolt on open headers from what I have now
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