jferg92

How much for a throttle cable bracket

charliedyal

http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1793

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/.../t-209250.html
[MENTION=64669]jferg92[/MENTION] a little reading for you on rebuilding the 9.75 and opinions of using crush sleeve eliminators. Take note of the next to last comment on the first site & the final comment on the 2nd one. Honestly, I see more benefits from using them than not.

Edit: I've also emailed a couple off road suppliers about the issue & will post replies later.

Jackedup00

Talked to a guy from mpt today,he said to get custom tunes for my set up I have to datalog,what does this consist of?

charliedyal

They'll walk you through it. Just capturing engine data to email them to adjust your tune. I believe they have a how-to on their website.

Jackedup00

Alright,I'm guessing the cams are the main reason

jferg92

Thank you. Thoughts? Steve83 05-20-2012, 09:00 AM To me, it's not a question of durability. The crush sleeve isn't a wearing part. It's there to make it easier to set the pinion bearing preload accurately on the first try, with no reverse work. It also allows a LIMITED amount of adjustment as the bearings wear. A solid shim offers none of those advantages. You have to take some complicated & precise measurements, then machine the shim to a VERY precise tolerance. And if you get it wrong, you have to start over. Otherwise, the pinion preload will be wrong, and you can get accelerated bearing wear, AND gear wear (if not damage). If that seems easier to you, :thumbup. I'll stick with a $10 crush sleeve and be back to wheeling in half the time.


Also Charlie, do you have any information on the front diff? That's what my buddy needs to know how it is set you comparatively to gm

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Around 80 in aluminum. I could do cheaper in mild steel. It's just a lot of time and cutting.

jferg92

Ya that's pretty good. Ebay is still $100.

[MENTION=19263]charliedyal[/MENTION]
I've talked to two people who both said they would feel more comfortable using the oem crush sleeve setup

charliedyal

The thing about this comment that I question is the "limited amount of adjustment with bearing wear". The crush sleeve doesn't move once it's set. UNLESS, it's jammed in further by the drive shaft thus shortening the sleeve and affecting the tolerance between the bearings. With enough wheel hop or a sudden depression of the suspension (unexpected jump, etc.) this is possible. With a shimmed spacer there is nothing to jam and tolerances are maintained. As well as eliminating the need for a large amount of torque (pull bar)to crush the collar on installation. The downside is you may need to pull the pinion more than once to get the correct shims for proper preload. I'm open to more insight of anyone can chip in.



Front diff setup is identical to the rear. Both are crush sleeve type axles. Just be careful with the shift fork assembly. I need to find the setup torque & backlash specs. Of course they're not included in my Haynes manual. I guess those guys are too scared to tear into a rear end. Maybe [MENTION=76842]Carcrazygts2[/MENTION] or [MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION] can help?

charliedyal

Btw [MENTION=64669]jferg92[/MENTION], everything I've read said pull the front and do it on a bench.