Carcrazygts2

In/lb tq wrench, .001" Dial indicator and magnetic mount, Bearing pullers.

charliedyal

& better have an impact for the ring gear & a big *** breaker bar to crush the pinion collar.

pfoley12

sounds like fun..

charliedyal

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...75-axle-build/

This should help.

fordmotorsport

[MENTION=19263]charliedyal[/MENTION] been away for a while but yeah I used the stock fuel rails and reg from the lightning.

charliedyal

Testing 123. Is this thing on?

charliedyal

Thanks man. I have a L rail & regulator. Although I think the fuel line ports are in different locations compared to my factory NA one. I'll have to double check when I have a chance. I received my IC pump yesterday. Gonna take [MENTION=64669]jferg92[/MENTION]'s advice & use an old coil bracket to mount it. Not much left in terms of parts for the swap. Head gasket set, SC gaskets, water pump, belt & tune are all that's needed for the swap. Hoping to get my gears soon. I'm thinking about doing them myself rather than shelling out $800 for installs on both ends. Priced out a dial caliper with magnetic stand for $28 on ebay. I'm hoping I can find the crush sleeve eliminator kit I read about. It would make the install so much easier as well as handle higher torque loads. And in the meantime my tie rods & pitman arm need replacing. Recently replaced the idler arm but the death wobble prevails. Those 37's wear the front end out fairly quickly. May step down to 35's again later. Anybody have a proven method of removing the pitman? Broke a pitman arm remover and 45 minutes of swinging a 4lb mini sledge didn't get it done. It's seized Purdy good.

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

I used a puller and a hammer. I unbolted my steering box from the frame to get a better angle on it too. I bought a more expensive puller and used more than a little penetrating oil.

charliedyal

Yeah, I pulled the box also. Looks like I need to go somewhere other than Harbor Freight for a puller.

Carcrazygts2

Use a 2 jaw puller.