Engine Builders talk.
#1041
Senior Member
The drivers side looks halfway easy. Atleast from the top. I'm trying to do it as cheap as possible from a labor aspect. Load it on the trailer. Then take the manifolds and cats off. Tow It to my mechanic who can weld out whatever studs I can't get out. Bolt up the headers then tow it to the exhaust shop.
I was quoted $275 for him bolt on open headers from what I have now
#1042
Senior Member
#1043
Take my advice and remove your wheel wells when your installing your headers. 4x4dave's on the money with the ratchet wrench. You can get to all the bolts fairly easy with the wells out of the way. Tighten inside out, and check and re-tighten after a couple cycles as previously mentioned. Do it right, and you'll get a long leak free life out of'em.
And you need to go turbo.
We have a 4v, twin turbo build/compound boost, e85 something, L-swap, and 6.0 pstroke build.
You need a 2v with a big single turbo.
Someone needs to do this
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...?__federated=1
Last edited by jferg92; 06-24-2014 at 12:20 AM.
#1044
Senior Member
#1045
Senior Member
Thanks for the info jbrew. A couple questions.
Would you suggest tying the y pipe hanger in somewhere else since it will all be replaced header back?
And it seems maybe the proper torque procedure and hardware is more important than the gasket? Two LTs I've looked at both provide paper gaskets.
Would you suggest tying the y pipe hanger in somewhere else since it will all be replaced header back?
And it seems maybe the proper torque procedure and hardware is more important than the gasket? Two LTs I've looked at both provide paper gaskets.
Other than that, -I would go with 3" collectors into a HF cat,out to a 2.5" MANDREL bent cross over (specially if blown), then a 3" cat back.
Not sure if your planning on using an OFF-ROAD pipe but I wouldn't. - Unless you plan on nothing less than WFO.
Last edited by Jbrew; 06-24-2014 at 01:52 AM.
#1046
Dont forget about the dipstick jimmy!!!
I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.
I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.
I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
#1047
Senior Member
Dont forget about the dipstick jimmy!!!
I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.
I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.
I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
But yea, they can be a PITA. Double O-ringed and they lock right in there. Dropping the pan would have cheesed me off something ugly.
#1048
Senior Member
#1049
Senior Member
I have removed them to work on things before. Really frees everything up. I'll be happy as long as they down rust out like everything else up here.
And you need to go turbo.
We have a 4v, twin turbo build/compound boost, e85 something, L-swap, and 6.0 pstroke build.
You need a 2v with a big single turbo.
Someone needs to do this
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...?__federated=1
#1050
I was against the turbo until I saw I kid on the FdY Boys fb page that did a LT header back system and mounted it under the cab and ran the rest with generic piping, elbows, boots and clamps