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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Engine Builders talk.

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Old 06-23-2014, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jferg92

The drivers side looks halfway easy. Atleast from the top. I'm trying to do it as cheap as possible from a labor aspect. Load it on the trailer. Then take the manifolds and cats off. Tow It to my mechanic who can weld out whatever studs I can't get out. Bolt up the headers then tow it to the exhaust shop.

I was quoted $275 for him bolt on open headers from what I have now
Take my advice and remove your wheel wells when your installing your headers. 4x4dave's on the money with the ratchet wrench. You can get to all the bolts fairly easy with the wells out of the way. Tighten inside out, and check and re-tighten after a couple cycles as previously mentioned. Do it right, and you'll get a long leak free life out of'em.
Old 06-23-2014, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Z7What
Still have 70-75% of everything needed for a blower swap off a 2003 HD with less than 24k miles for sale. Stock/Modified/Aftermarket Parts.

Wayne
Need an 87 Harley fxrt w/ a 110 HP 113" S&S engine?
Old 06-24-2014, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by charliedyal

Take my advice and remove your wheel wells when your installing your headers. 4x4dave's on the money with the ratchet wrench. You can get to all the bolts fairly easy with the wells out of the way. Tighten inside out, and check and re-tighten after a couple cycles as previously mentioned. Do it right, and you'll get a long leak free life out of'em.
I have removed them to work on things before. Really frees everything up. I'll be happy as long as they down rust out like everything else up here.
And you need to go turbo.
We have a 4v, twin turbo build/compound boost, e85 something, L-swap, and 6.0 pstroke build.
You need a 2v with a big single turbo.
Someone needs to do this
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...?__federated=1

Last edited by jferg92; 06-24-2014 at 12:20 AM.
Old 06-24-2014, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by charliedyal
4x4dave's on the money with the ratchet wrench.
Hey, I thought I said that. 4X4dave said it as well?
Old 06-24-2014, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jferg92
Thanks for the info jbrew. A couple questions.

Would you suggest tying the y pipe hanger in somewhere else since it will all be replaced header back?

And it seems maybe the proper torque procedure and hardware is more important than the gasket? Two LTs I've looked at both provide paper gaskets.
Well sure, you can incorporate another hanger/damper. Just use a good rubber damper.

Other than that, -I would go with 3" collectors into a HF cat,out to a 2.5" MANDREL bent cross over (specially if blown), then a 3" cat back.

Not sure if your planning on using an OFF-ROAD pipe but I wouldn't. - Unless you plan on nothing less than WFO.

Last edited by Jbrew; 06-24-2014 at 01:52 AM.
Old 06-24-2014, 02:15 AM
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Dont forget about the dipstick jimmy!!!

I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.

I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
Old 06-24-2014, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MyFX4Project
Dont forget about the dipstick jimmy!!!

I broke mine off flush with the block trying to bend it out of the way.. then you have to drop the front axle, drop the pan and push it up and out. Big pain. Use a ratchet wrench and good gaskets.

I bought some steel header gaskets from MMR for whatever I end up with. Hopefully longtubes but we'll see.
Guys welded together a little lag screw slide hammer that thy say work like a charm. I've got them out with a screw washer and a piece of pipe/socket. Homemade extractor lol.

But yea, they can be a PITA. Double O-ringed and they lock right in there. Dropping the pan would have cheesed me off something ugly.
Old 06-24-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Hey, I thought I said that. 4X4dave said it as well?
LOL. You probably did. Was speed reading through the post last night while feeding my mini me. Sorry brother!
Old 06-24-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jferg92

I have removed them to work on things before. Really frees everything up. I'll be happy as long as they down rust out like everything else up here.
And you need to go turbo.
We have a 4v, twin turbo build/compound boost, e85 something, L-swap, and 6.0 pstroke build.
You need a 2v with a big single turbo.
Someone needs to do this
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...?__federated=1
Turbo may be a bit more than I want to get into. Would have to trash my headers, get custom plumbing, mount IC, etc, etc, etc.. It would be cool to do something different, but a M112 L swap really suits me much better.
Old 06-24-2014, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by charliedyal

Turbo may be a bit more than I want to get into. Would have to trash my headers, get custom plumbing, mount IC, etc, etc, etc.. It would be cool to do something different, but a M112 L swap really suits me much better.
I was against the turbo until I saw I kid on the FdY Boys fb page that did a LT header back system and mounted it under the cab and ran the rest with generic piping, elbows, boots and clamps


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