Definitive motor tick thread!
10-22-2014, 05:22 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Definitive motor tick thread!
Okay, so I am very interested in this. My truck makes a tick noise. My buddies lightning does also. Is there a definitive answer on this? Is their a slightly different sound a loose spark plug makes vs an exhaust manifold leak? Also, IF all of your spark plugs are in deed tight, does this MEAN it's the exhaust manifold? There has to be science on this. I wish there were some videos of loose spark pugs, and a video of cracked exhaust manifold.
10-22-2014, 05:24 PM
#2
Use your ears man. Buy an Automotive stethoscope. Feel and watch. Put your hand on each COP. Do you feel more movement on one compared to others? Do you see any broken exhaust manifold studs? Hear or feel exhaust? At least narrow it down to passenger or driver side. Then narrow it down more, is it in the front or the rear? Exhaust manifold tick may go away when the engine warms as the manifold expands ever so slightly.
Mine makes a tick but it's neither plugs or exhaust manifold.
Mine makes a tick but it's neither plugs or exhaust manifold.
Last edited by Tackle; 10-22-2014 at 05:27 PM.
10-22-2014, 05:26 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Use your ears man. Buy an Automotive stethoscope. Feel and watch. At least Narrow it down to passenger or driver side. Then narrow it down more, is it in the front or the rear? Exhaust manifold tick may go away when the engine warms as the manifold expands ever so slightly.
Mine makes a tick but it's neither plugs or exhaust manifold.
Mine makes a tick but it's neither plugs or exhaust manifold.
Now, is there a solution to this or is it just a natural thing with this engine?
10-22-2014, 05:35 PM
#4
I'm not an engine builder. You're not an engine builder. Even an engine builder would let it go and not worry about it.
Short story: I had once had a Silverado. Bought it with 70k miles. Had a lag and a clunk whenever it went into reverse. 2 transmission shops said "You need a rebuild ASAP". I told myself I'd let it go until it crapped out. I had the money but it was working albeit a little laggy. Sold it at 160k and it was still working, doing the same thing. Friend is still driving it, it's been 7 years since it "needed a rebuild".
I like to apply the motto: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Last edited by Tackle; 10-22-2014 at 05:40 PM.
10-22-2014, 06:20 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The solution: wait until something breaks.
I'm not an engine builder. You're not an engine builder. Even an engine builder would let it go and not worry about it.
Short story: I had once had a Silverado. Bought it with 70k miles. Had a lag and a clunk whenever it went into reverse. 2 transmission shops said "You need a rebuild ASAP". I told myself I'd let it go until it crapped out. I had the money but it was working albeit a little laggy. Sold it at 160k and it was still working, doing the same thing. Friend is still driving it, it's been 7 years since it "needed a rebuild".
I like to apply the motto: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'm not an engine builder. You're not an engine builder. Even an engine builder would let it go and not worry about it.
Short story: I had once had a Silverado. Bought it with 70k miles. Had a lag and a clunk whenever it went into reverse. 2 transmission shops said "You need a rebuild ASAP". I told myself I'd let it go until it crapped out. I had the money but it was working albeit a little laggy. Sold it at 160k and it was still working, doing the same thing. Friend is still driving it, it's been 7 years since it "needed a rebuild".
I like to apply the motto: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
10-22-2014, 11:09 PM
#6
Senior Member
Shove a shop vac hose up your tail-pipe.
Create a squirt bottle of soapy water.
Turn the shop vac on in blower mode.
Hose down the manifold w/soapy water and watch for Mr Bubble.
Yea, confirm it's not the manifolds, IF you have already re-torqued your spark plugs to 28' lbs. If not, plugs first, then manifold...move on from there.
Next would be to stethoscope, -that right there will pin point, - or get you damn close to where it's originating from. Make sure it's not just a loud injector.
And NO, ticking is not normal for these engines, unless you using the wrong oil. Should use only the oil in your owners manual, if you don't know any better. Modular's are tight and need the right stuff or you'll starve the top end.
Create a squirt bottle of soapy water.
Turn the shop vac on in blower mode.
Hose down the manifold w/soapy water and watch for Mr Bubble.
Yea, confirm it's not the manifolds, IF you have already re-torqued your spark plugs to 28' lbs. If not, plugs first, then manifold...move on from there.
Next would be to stethoscope, -that right there will pin point, - or get you damn close to where it's originating from. Make sure it's not just a loud injector.
And NO, ticking is not normal for these engines, unless you using the wrong oil. Should use only the oil in your owners manual, if you don't know any better. Modular's are tight and need the right stuff or you'll starve the top end.
10-23-2014, 03:54 AM
#7
Ticking is usually the lifters. Sometimes they are completely collapsed and other times they just need some warm up to coax them into order.
Old Injectors also make a more audible Tick although some sound it normal.
Generally speaking, neither is going to destroy your engine but if it bothers you, change them.
Old Injectors also make a more audible Tick although some sound it normal.
Generally speaking, neither is going to destroy your engine but if it bothers you, change them.