coolant leak
02-24-2008, 04:42 PM
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coolant leak
'99 Triton V8, 4.6L
There are two hoses that connect the heater core to the engine.
One hose connects to an aluminum tube. It's about 9 " long and is an upside down 'L' shape.
The aluminum tube has a pinhole leak in it about 1/2" from the engine and coolant sprays from it when under pressure.
Can the aluminum tube be replaced - dealership or otherwise?
Thanks,
Richard
There are two hoses that connect the heater core to the engine.
One hose connects to an aluminum tube. It's about 9 " long and is an upside down 'L' shape.
The aluminum tube has a pinhole leak in it about 1/2" from the engine and coolant sprays from it when under pressure.
Can the aluminum tube be replaced - dealership or otherwise?
Thanks,
Richard
04-26-2009, 09:36 AM
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Hey, I have the same problem... Were you able to get this resolved? If so, how...? I've got the intake manifold removed and I'm all set to remove the defective tube, but I'm not sure how. Is it pressed in? Threaded? Did you end up drilling and tapping the hole and going back with NPT fittings...?
Any input (and benefit of your experience) on this would be greatly appreciated.
Any input (and benefit of your experience) on this would be greatly appreciated.
04-29-2009, 08:24 PM
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Dealership said they can do and guesstimated $650 - $850.
They say the tube is pressed in and they have to pull the entire manifold.
since I could do no worse, thought i would try something a little less expensive.
I was able to create a patch using JB Weld under a piece of hose with a hose clamp. the hose is about 1 inch long and not just split length wise; i removed about 1/4 of the circumference so that the hose would not gap or wrinkle when i tighted down the hose clamp.
not knowing how well the jb weld would hold under pressure or if the coolant would prevent proper adhesion, i opted to add the piece of hose and hose clamp as insurance. I figured i only had one shot since screwing up probably meant dealership replacement.
if you just split the hose, then when you tighten the clamp, somewhere it will gap away from the tube. my way, it does not do that.
been working for over a year now and no signs of any trouble.
the hose clamp is still on. have no intentions of removing it.
works like an old style patch ( real old style ) for a bicycle tube.
They say the tube is pressed in and they have to pull the entire manifold.
since I could do no worse, thought i would try something a little less expensive.
I was able to create a patch using JB Weld under a piece of hose with a hose clamp. the hose is about 1 inch long and not just split length wise; i removed about 1/4 of the circumference so that the hose would not gap or wrinkle when i tighted down the hose clamp.
not knowing how well the jb weld would hold under pressure or if the coolant would prevent proper adhesion, i opted to add the piece of hose and hose clamp as insurance. I figured i only had one shot since screwing up probably meant dealership replacement.
if you just split the hose, then when you tighten the clamp, somewhere it will gap away from the tube. my way, it does not do that.
been working for over a year now and no signs of any trouble.
the hose clamp is still on. have no intentions of removing it.
works like an old style patch ( real old style ) for a bicycle tube.
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04-30-2009, 11:11 PM
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I had no alternate truck to use while letting this sit for a few days and most of my tools were in storage between moves.
Even had to do this work at a friends house since apartments don't like heater core replacments on the premises. [ but that's a separate story ]
Net result is that it was crunch time so i did not want to risk damaging an aluminum tube any further that its current condition.
If i screwed it up, it was guaranteed to be $650 minimum because i don't have the back ground or nerve to pull the manifold for replacement myself without a LOT of TIME to research and be prepared.
For less than $5, the pinhole was repaired.
Today, i could park in my garage and take my time but after a year of no prob's it still turns out it was a good decision - especially for a 10 year old truck.
Even had to do this work at a friends house since apartments don't like heater core replacments on the premises. [ but that's a separate story ]
Net result is that it was crunch time so i did not want to risk damaging an aluminum tube any further that its current condition.
If i screwed it up, it was guaranteed to be $650 minimum because i don't have the back ground or nerve to pull the manifold for replacement myself without a LOT of TIME to research and be prepared.
For less than $5, the pinhole was repaired.
Today, i could park in my garage and take my time but after a year of no prob's it still turns out it was a good decision - especially for a 10 year old truck.
05-02-2009, 09:58 PM
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Hey, thank you so much...! You gave me the confidence to follow my instincts and install the "modified hillbilly rig"--- very similar to your fix but (dare I say...?) a slight improvement. I actually removed the intake manifold (along with all the wiring, vacuum hoses, and water lines--- who knew the PCV valve actually had water circulating around it...?! Weird.) and climbed up into the engine compartment to get after this one... I ended up lubricating (okay, okay--- yes, it was Astro-glide--- borrowed it from my wife--- I didn't question her about it...!) the 6", L-shaped aluminum (?) tubing and slid a length of 5/8" heater hose completely over the pinhole. I applied three hose clamps (one below the leak, one above the leak, and one in the normal spot for the hose) and this seems to have taken care of the problem. The reason I say this might be an improvement is because I used a complete hose without having to cut it longitudinally, hence, no opportunity for a leak. That being said, the factory hose was a 6" hose with a 90-degree bend in it so it could be connected to an adjacent steel fitting, close to the EGR valve. I ended up buying a two-foot long piece of 5/8" hose and just looping it around the oil fill spout and then back to its normal connection point. I just didn't see any reason to struggle with a short length of hose, and this seems to work just fine. Weird stuff I discovered--- The intake manifold gasket I asked for a Advance Discount Auto Parts turned out to be the wrong part. What I actually needed was the "plenum manifold" gasket. Be sure to check at the parts store before you leave. And, as I said above, the PCV valve actually has water circulating around it, so be sure to reset those hose clamps way at the back of the engine before you crank it up... Otherwise, you'll do as I did and end up with water puking out the port. No big deal, but a bit deflating when you crank it up to see the results of your labor. Anyway, I'm thinkin' I'm in the short strokes of this one, so if anyone has any questions, feel free to contact me...!