Code P1132 and Code P1152 Running rich
11-16-2016, 07:15 PM
#11
Senior Member
1999 Ford Expedition EB 4WD 5.4L 200K, Started to sputter and shutters under load / heavy acceleration, low or high RPM's with more than 1/3 + peddle. Normal driving up to 1/3 peddle and under 2K RPM's NO sputter or shutter. Initially told misfire Bank 1 & 2, suggestion was to replace COP's and injector O-rings. Replaced all spark plugs, COP's and injectors. Starts instantaneously now and more responsive but still shutters and sputters under load. Suggestion to replace TPS, MAF and fuel filter since it had 200K on it and nothing had been replaced since new so I replaced all. Still shutters and sputters but now notice it runs a little rough at idle and the exhaust smells weird not like gas just something I've never smelled before. Suggestion of possible vac leak, have sprayed carb cleaner, brake cleaner and starter fluid all around can't fine anything, Starts immediately cold or hot, cold IAC has it at 980 RPM's then settles to 600 RPM's. Never surges. Drove around for about an hour trying to get it to throw a code, it threw P1132 and P1152, Sensor 1 for bank 1 & 2 , LACK OF H2OS11-NOT SWITCHING - RICH assuming this means LEAN (no O2) condition from what i've read. Suggestion was test the fuel pressure and regulator. 30 psi at the rail, 35 psi with new fuel filter engine running. Removed vac hose from regulator jumps to 40 psi. Engine off, ignition off, psi drops to 0 in a couple of minutes. Never holds pressure once off. Q: shouldn't line hold pressure within 5psi when pump is off? Also, Is the fuel pump working just not enough when fuel demand increases.
Reason this may be, -old filter was very bad before the R&R, enough restriction to push the pump over and above 65 psi BEHIND the filter to meet PCM demand at the fuel rail. Something eventually gives and that little tube on the pump itself usually ruptures.
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Red Flag, - Warm idle should NEVER be at 600 rpms. 600 = obstruction (and that could be with intake flow as well) or fuel delivery issues. 730 rpms (@ warm idle in park) is dead right and that's one consistent with these engines. It varies very little away from that (725-735). Even at 200K, that program maintains stability throughout the life cycle....doesn't flinch much at all...sort of a guide that lets you know when things aren't quite right. The program platform Ford used in these trucks is close to rock solid. Not quite, but close. Makes it very easy to trouble shoot, most of the time lol.
Sensors are not functioning, dtc explains why in general, = open loop operation. Open loop, -your always at open loop upon cold start. Only until the O2 heaters (two white wires on the sensor) heat up and begin to switch, ie closed loop operation. Your AF's/mixtures are off currently without. I'm not sure why you are thinking you have a rich condition, you aren't getting ENOUGH fuel. Sure it's rich right now, but focus on lean. That's why it's rich.
Glad to see that projectsho89 is still around helping folks out. If you talk with him, tell him I said hello....been along time. He knows his stuff, - And what do know, just seen this, wish I did before, - I wouldn't of wrote such a book I expect, -
Also, drivecycle pressure, -you should get a consistent and solid reading at around 40 psi without fluctuation. The gauge should not move from idle - 2000 + rpms.
Hope this helps a bit.
Last edited by Jbrew; 11-16-2016 at 07:30 PM.
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pointaus (11-18-2016)
11-18-2016, 04:59 PM
#12
Thanks for the reply jbrew.
So you do think the fuel pump not keeping up with the demand is the problem?
The best way to check it is a drivecycle test from the rail to to see if it drops below 40psi under load/acceleration?
I'll pass it on to projectsho89.
Originally Posted by jbrew:
Yes, I think you nailed it. I believe spec is 5 minutes, but it SHOULD hold line pressure for much longer than that.
Yes, I think you nailed it. I believe spec is 5 minutes, but it SHOULD hold line pressure for much longer than that.
Originally Posted by jbrew:
Also, drivecycle pressure, -you should get a consistent and solid reading at around 40 psi without fluctuation. The gauge should not move from idle - 2000 + rpms.
Also, drivecycle pressure, -you should get a consistent and solid reading at around 40 psi without fluctuation. The gauge should not move from idle - 2000 + rpms.
Originally Posted by jbrew:
Glad to see that projectsho89 is still around helping folks out. If you talk with him, tell him I said hello....been along time. He knows his stuff
Glad to see that projectsho89 is still around helping folks out. If you talk with him, tell him I said hello....been along time. He knows his stuff
12-28-2016, 10:19 AM
#13
Finally had time to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump with Delphi HP10074 Hanger Pump Assembly off Amazon. Replaced the filler neck hose with a universal from O'Reilly, original looked decayed. Took it out for a drive, same shutter, hesitation on load. CEL finally came on again P0175, P1132, P1152, P0172. Someone suggested bad CAT's before bad O2's. Bought a HF infrared thermometer, took it out and ran it hard popping and jerking under load to try and get it hot. Checked the temperature four times from the headers upstream:535F, CAT:425 to 455F, downstream:385 to 405F. Any ideas what to try next?
10-23-2017, 06:56 AM
#14
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So what was the solution ??
Finally had time to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump with Delphi HP10074 Hanger Pump Assembly off Amazon. Replaced the filler neck hose with a universal from O'Reilly, original looked decayed. Took it out for a drive, same shutter, hesitation on load. CEL finally came on again P0175, P1132, P1152, P0172. Someone suggested bad CAT's before bad O2's. Bought a HF infrared thermometer, took it out and ran it hard popping and jerking under load to try and get it hot. Checked the temperature four times from the headers upstream:535F, CAT:425 to 455F, downstream:385 to 405F. Any ideas what to try next?
