clunking in front end...maybe Idler arm?
07-30-2015, 12:22 PM
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clunking in front end...maybe Idler arm?
This is on my 99 F150 4x4 5.4 with 190k miles. Has 20" rims/tires and torsion bars cranked.
Started to hear clunking noices and at times felt it in the steering.
So I replaced inner/outter tie rods, all new shocks and upper ball joints. It was all original equipment with 190K miles. the lower ball joints had been replaced as they say Moog on it and are grease-able. Lower boots are not torn and look good.
So the parts went on, got it aligned and seemed good no clucking. Well it's back. It it very clear when going up a round about in a garage with the wheels cranked in one direction(does it in both going up or down the round about). You can hear it and feel it and the passenger I had he felt in the floor board.
So I did a little searching and the only thing I haven't replaced is the Idler Arm and lower ball joints. I'm leaning toward the idler arm as it's original as well. i looked at it and it had a bunch of crud/grease around it.
I'll mention when driving straight he noise and feeling is there unless a lot of weight is moved back and forth acceleration/stopping.
It's weird because the noice and feeling is a lot worse not that the truck is aligned. I'm almost hearing a whining noice too like the bearing in the rear are bad but who knows might just be the tires as they were rotated and everything aligned.
Any suggestion?
Would a bad idler cause the clunking sound and feeling the floor board as well as the steering wheel? I would think lower ball joints would do that.
I did read possibly axle being bad...but my boots aren't torn and it doesn't doe while driving straight.
Thoughts?
Started to hear clunking noices and at times felt it in the steering.
So I replaced inner/outter tie rods, all new shocks and upper ball joints. It was all original equipment with 190K miles. the lower ball joints had been replaced as they say Moog on it and are grease-able. Lower boots are not torn and look good.
So the parts went on, got it aligned and seemed good no clucking. Well it's back. It it very clear when going up a round about in a garage with the wheels cranked in one direction(does it in both going up or down the round about). You can hear it and feel it and the passenger I had he felt in the floor board.
So I did a little searching and the only thing I haven't replaced is the Idler Arm and lower ball joints. I'm leaning toward the idler arm as it's original as well. i looked at it and it had a bunch of crud/grease around it.
I'll mention when driving straight he noise and feeling is there unless a lot of weight is moved back and forth acceleration/stopping.
It's weird because the noice and feeling is a lot worse not that the truck is aligned. I'm almost hearing a whining noice too like the bearing in the rear are bad but who knows might just be the tires as they were rotated and everything aligned.
Any suggestion?
Would a bad idler cause the clunking sound and feeling the floor board as well as the steering wheel? I would think lower ball joints would do that.
I did read possibly axle being bad...but my boots aren't torn and it doesn't doe while driving straight.
Thoughts?
07-30-2015, 01:12 PM
#2
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A couple of thoughts. For the second time today, does your front end come into alignment within specs?
20" wheels? What about tire size? Since the bars are "cranked" as you put it, I'm guessing they are oversized? Look at, or have a shop look at the wheel bearings and spindles. I'm not sure of this but aren't stock wheels 17"? Some common high school algebra and Newton's first law will show you how much centripetal and centrifugal force has been added to the load your bearings and spindles are carrying. It's no small amount you've added. Circular motion means "pi" raises it's ugly head and the forces on your bearings and spindles hasn't increased linearly but exponentially. Considering what you have already done in repairs and the suspension limits you have now it's where I would start.
If the problem was your idler arm you should notice it in your steering which you don't mention.
I believe all the stock wheel bearings from that time were ball bearings. If and when you replace them go to roller bearings. They're a better choice for the added tire weight.
20" wheels? What about tire size? Since the bars are "cranked" as you put it, I'm guessing they are oversized? Look at, or have a shop look at the wheel bearings and spindles. I'm not sure of this but aren't stock wheels 17"? Some common high school algebra and Newton's first law will show you how much centripetal and centrifugal force has been added to the load your bearings and spindles are carrying. It's no small amount you've added. Circular motion means "pi" raises it's ugly head and the forces on your bearings and spindles hasn't increased linearly but exponentially. Considering what you have already done in repairs and the suspension limits you have now it's where I would start.
If the problem was your idler arm you should notice it in your steering which you don't mention.
I believe all the stock wheel bearings from that time were ball bearings. If and when you replace them go to roller bearings. They're a better choice for the added tire weight.
07-30-2015, 01:19 PM
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Sorry, forgot to get this in. What you describe is one way bad ball bearings show themselves. The starting and stopping helps the bad or flat spots out of the rotation.
07-30-2015, 02:06 PM
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A couple of thoughts. For the second time today, does your front end come into alignment within specs?
20" wheels? What about tire size? Since the bars are "cranked" as you put it, I'm guessing they are oversized? Look at, or have a shop look at the wheel bearings and spindles. I'm not sure of this but aren't stock wheels 17"? Some common high school algebra and Newton's first law will show you how much centripetal and centrifugal force has been added to the load your bearings and spindles are carrying. It's no small amount you've added. Circular motion means "pi" raises it's ugly head and the forces on your bearings and spindles hasn't increased linearly but exponentially. Considering what you have already done in repairs and the suspension limits you have now it's where I would start.
If the problem was your idler arm you should notice it in your steering which you don't mention.
I believe all the stock wheel bearings from that time were ball bearings. If and when you replace them go to roller bearings. They're a better choice for the added tire weight.
20" wheels? What about tire size? Since the bars are "cranked" as you put it, I'm guessing they are oversized? Look at, or have a shop look at the wheel bearings and spindles. I'm not sure of this but aren't stock wheels 17"? Some common high school algebra and Newton's first law will show you how much centripetal and centrifugal force has been added to the load your bearings and spindles are carrying. It's no small amount you've added. Circular motion means "pi" raises it's ugly head and the forces on your bearings and spindles hasn't increased linearly but exponentially. Considering what you have already done in repairs and the suspension limits you have now it's where I would start.
If the problem was your idler arm you should notice it in your steering which you don't mention.
I believe all the stock wheel bearings from that time were ball bearings. If and when you replace them go to roller bearings. They're a better choice for the added tire weight.
When they aligned it there was no mention it didn't fall into specs. It drives straight down the road. Would need to verify the tires size but I believe either 275 or 285...nothing to big. The 35" BFHs were much bigger on the stock 17" from before.
I can feel the clicking in the steering wheel. I believe that was mentioned. I would describe the feeling almost as if the steering rod was loose in the connection when the feeling happens. It's like a popping feeling if that helps. the sounds and feeling is most noticeable when the wheels are turned.
If I rock the truck from either side I'm not able to replicate the sound.
07-30-2015, 02:09 PM
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What I'm feeling/hearing is a popping type sound/feeling not so much a grinding like bearing going out.
I will agree they are under stress and probably need replaced.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and adding your thoughts.
07-30-2015, 03:08 PM
#6
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Almost everything in the front end will be felt in the steering. I've had all kinds of noises and sensations from bad bearings and spindles. What I've never heard of is a clunk from an idler arm. After bearings and spindles I would go to the control arms. Make sure everything is tight and check the bushings. I would have suggested the control arms if you hadn't already done the work you did. Control arm clunking is a somewhat common problem but I assumed you had already OK'd them.
Having a front end aligned and having a front end aligned within specs don't necessarily have anything to do with each other. I don't know what current specs are but the last I did know for example was camber should be between 0 and +1 degrees. Camber could be adjusted to +4 degrees though. Setting camber at more the 1 degree can be necessary for both good and bad reasons. The most common reason is probably accidents. A heavy weight like plow on the front end is another. Regardless, whenever anyone gets an alignment they should get the settings but very few ever do.
Having a front end aligned and having a front end aligned within specs don't necessarily have anything to do with each other. I don't know what current specs are but the last I did know for example was camber should be between 0 and +1 degrees. Camber could be adjusted to +4 degrees though. Setting camber at more the 1 degree can be necessary for both good and bad reasons. The most common reason is probably accidents. A heavy weight like plow on the front end is another. Regardless, whenever anyone gets an alignment they should get the settings but very few ever do.
07-30-2015, 06:11 PM
#7
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clunking in front end...maybe Idler arm?
I used to have popping clunking in my front end but it wasn't too noticeable. You had to be feeling for it to notice or listening for it. Replaced one of my cv axles and it was fixed. I think it would be a good idea to replace idler arm and both front whee hub assemblies which is your bearings.
