cb antenna
#3
They pay me to drink
As high as possible, and always keep the load coil above the highest point of the truck. Antenna is the single most imporant part of a CB's performance, so don't skimp. I use a Wilson 1000 base-loaded whip. Right now its a magnet mount on my roof, but I'm going to drill the roof for a solid mount. Physically grounding the base of the antenna increases the ground plane SWR a lot. I understand if you're not a hard-core CBer you might not want to drill your roof, but it really is a lot better.
Try to think of the truck as part of the antenna - because it is. You want the antenna to be up high with as much flat sheet metal around it as you can get. The flat sheet metal is going to create the ground plane, which directs the signal, and creates a reflection point for the 1/2-sized wave that the antenna creates. Think of it like holding a semicircle up to a mirror. The mirror makes the other half of the circle. In the same way, the ground plane makes the other half of the signal wave. If you physically drill a hole in the roof and make a grounded connection to your ground plane, its like holding the semicircle up to a fresh clean mirror. The antenna and the roof sheet metal are shaking hands and making a good reflection. A magnet mount is like holding the semicircle up to a dirty mirror. It will still reflect the image, just not as well.
Roof with a base-load is absolutely the best if you're buying over the counter antennas. Mirror mount with a center load or end load is fair, but you're wasting so much of the antenna's surface area firing smack into the side of the truck. Same thing with a bed rail mount or bumper mount. So much is wasted smacking into the truck that there is very little signal left to reflect off the ground plane.
The one exception is a full 102" whip. It is capable of generating close to a full wave itself, so ground plane (while still helpful) is no longer as important. Of course then you have a 102" antenna on your truck.
I mounted my Wilson 1000 base-load just in front of the third brake light on the roof. Then I snuck the wire in behind the third brake light and I drilled a hole in the plastic grommet where the wires come out for the bed courtesy lights. I ran the cable along the headliner, down beside the rear seat, under the passenger side floor trim, then up behind the dash. If I had to do it all over again, I would have kept the cable up above the headliner. Too many speaker wires, brake light wires, fuel pump wires, and other stuff on the floor to add noise.
Try to think of the truck as part of the antenna - because it is. You want the antenna to be up high with as much flat sheet metal around it as you can get. The flat sheet metal is going to create the ground plane, which directs the signal, and creates a reflection point for the 1/2-sized wave that the antenna creates. Think of it like holding a semicircle up to a mirror. The mirror makes the other half of the circle. In the same way, the ground plane makes the other half of the signal wave. If you physically drill a hole in the roof and make a grounded connection to your ground plane, its like holding the semicircle up to a fresh clean mirror. The antenna and the roof sheet metal are shaking hands and making a good reflection. A magnet mount is like holding the semicircle up to a dirty mirror. It will still reflect the image, just not as well.
Roof with a base-load is absolutely the best if you're buying over the counter antennas. Mirror mount with a center load or end load is fair, but you're wasting so much of the antenna's surface area firing smack into the side of the truck. Same thing with a bed rail mount or bumper mount. So much is wasted smacking into the truck that there is very little signal left to reflect off the ground plane.
The one exception is a full 102" whip. It is capable of generating close to a full wave itself, so ground plane (while still helpful) is no longer as important. Of course then you have a 102" antenna on your truck.
I mounted my Wilson 1000 base-load just in front of the third brake light on the roof. Then I snuck the wire in behind the third brake light and I drilled a hole in the plastic grommet where the wires come out for the bed courtesy lights. I ran the cable along the headliner, down beside the rear seat, under the passenger side floor trim, then up behind the dash. If I had to do it all over again, I would have kept the cable up above the headliner. Too many speaker wires, brake light wires, fuel pump wires, and other stuff on the floor to add noise.
#4
Senior Member
The first thing we need to know is weather you are rely using it or if it is more for show... I just have mine for show rely... I made a little bracket out of two pieces of 1" L steel and welded one too the other like a T... then bolted it to the front of the bed about 6" down just below where it juts out... The bracket comes out far enough to keep the spring and antenna from hitting the bed... What I rely liked about that was when i got a tool box I just unbolted it and put it on the fron of the tool box... It looks a whole lot better on a tool box
#6
will run you OVER
well shoot....i got my cobra NW and my PA system and now need a antenna. I was thinking about a magnet for now and put 3' duals bolted on the front of my bed (one on each side) once i get the money....so bad idea?
#7
Senior Member
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#9
Senior Member
To be honest I have never even tested it like this and when I had it on the bed I only tried it when my buddy was like 20yds away... If you cant tell i have it more for looks...