Catalytic Converter - Expensive!!!
06-25-2016, 03:28 PM
#11
Senior Member
Direct fits have always been expensive. Eastern is probably still the cheapest. It use to be between Eastern, Walker and Magnaflow. They are all still out there, -
http://www.discountcatalyticconverte...L&No=20&Npp=10.
A few points,-
1. You can get the numbers off the parts from the supplier above, fish around on ebay for the number. Sometimes you can get very lucky, finding the same part at half price. It's always worth a try. Link above will get you goin.
2. Keep in mind your factory originals are worth some money. I got $160 from salvage for all 4 of mine. BUT, I've heard of guys getting as much as $200 for theirs. The old Ford cats have a higher precious metal count. I'm not sure how they determine the converter type old from newer. When I took mine in, they asked which make of vehicle, I said Ford of course, then they weighed them lol. Yea that's ALL they asked and did. I didn't argue, thought it was good, - until I heard guys were getting more for theirs.
3. CARB compliant, whether high flows or other. You just need one per side to be within parameter margins ( meaning no CEL). If you worried about a visual, gut the upstreams, leave the carcass in place. Replace the rears with a universal that's up to snuff.
The only time you'll have a problem with a CEL is if you do shii t work and the Y leaks everywhere.
http://www.discountcatalyticconverte...L&No=20&Npp=10.
A few points,-
1. You can get the numbers off the parts from the supplier above, fish around on ebay for the number. Sometimes you can get very lucky, finding the same part at half price. It's always worth a try. Link above will get you goin.
2. Keep in mind your factory originals are worth some money. I got $160 from salvage for all 4 of mine. BUT, I've heard of guys getting as much as $200 for theirs. The old Ford cats have a higher precious metal count. I'm not sure how they determine the converter type old from newer. When I took mine in, they asked which make of vehicle, I said Ford of course, then they weighed them lol. Yea that's ALL they asked and did. I didn't argue, thought it was good, - until I heard guys were getting more for theirs.
3. CARB compliant, whether high flows or other. You just need one per side to be within parameter margins ( meaning no CEL). If you worried about a visual, gut the upstreams, leave the carcass in place. Replace the rears with a universal that's up to snuff.
The only time you'll have a problem with a CEL is if you do shii t work and the Y leaks everywhere.
06-25-2016, 04:00 PM
#13
Senior Member
No problem, glad to help. The big difference is going to be whether or not you can do the work yourself. Working on exhaust systems blow.
Some things are easy, gutting the upstreams for instance, if your going for a visual factory look. Done that, - you just loosen up the Y, disconnect the converter from the exhaust ball and Y drops down in front. I used a 3/4" auger bit and a shop vac to gut them real quick. Reconnect and tighten it back down.
Some things are easy, gutting the upstreams for instance, if your going for a visual factory look. Done that, - you just loosen up the Y, disconnect the converter from the exhaust ball and Y drops down in front. I used a 3/4" auger bit and a shop vac to gut them real quick. Reconnect and tighten it back down.
Last edited by Jbrew; 06-25-2016 at 04:07 PM.
06-25-2016, 04:16 PM
#14
Senior Member
I was under the impression that Universals need modification and I cant just bolt it in. I dont want to spend any time with customizations to make it work.
eCheck... There are automated stations where you plug in the computer and get the printout yourself (in cuyahoga anyway).. no supervision... no mirror. I however wouldnt want to delete my Cats for fear of O2 not working correctly, check engine light.. failed e-check = even more $$$ to fix. BTW - if you spend $300 on repairs, you get an automatic pass.
eCheck... There are automated stations where you plug in the computer and get the printout yourself (in cuyahoga anyway).. no supervision... no mirror. I however wouldnt want to delete my Cats for fear of O2 not working correctly, check engine light.. failed e-check = even more $$$ to fix. BTW - if you spend $300 on repairs, you get an automatic pass.
You can use the Scantool to know if your vehicle is ready for the test.
Last edited by w0lvez; 06-25-2016 at 04:18 PM.
06-25-2016, 04:29 PM
#15
Senior Member
Is that right , huh 
I agree w/w0lvez, since the smaller upstreams are more restrictive to begin with.
So you know, you can run with just the upstreams and not have a CEL...yep still within parameters. Just a point of info.
BTW, you can use an infrared temp gun to determine a bad cat. Easiest way IMO. Replacing the bad part could be the easiest, cheapest solution yet.
I agree w/w0lvez, since the smaller upstreams are more restrictive to begin with.
So you know, you can run with just the upstreams and not have a CEL...yep still within parameters. Just a point of info.
BTW, you can use an infrared temp gun to determine a bad cat. Easiest way IMO. Replacing the bad part could be the easiest, cheapest solution yet.
06-25-2016, 04:36 PM
#16
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Thanks again for the tips guys. I am cool with working on my own vehicles. Other than tires and alignments, none of them have seen a mechanic other than me in 12 years :-) I might take 10 times longer to fix it but I guarantee it will be less expensive and I get more satisfaction out of it!
My CEL is fine.. The CAT I am replacing has a hole in it and is kinda loud so hence needing to replace it. I just dont know if it is $260 worth of loud LOL. Looks like it has been patched before and isnt working too well. Good to know on the upstreams for future reference!
My CEL is fine.. The CAT I am replacing has a hole in it and is kinda loud so hence needing to replace it. I just dont know if it is $260 worth of loud LOL. Looks like it has been patched before and isnt working too well. Good to know on the upstreams for future reference!
Last edited by eclipse860; 06-25-2016 at 04:38 PM.
06-25-2016, 04:45 PM
#17
Senior Member
Maybe it was not cleaned properly..
Last edited by w0lvez; 06-25-2016 at 04:50 PM.
06-25-2016, 05:11 PM
#19
Senior Member
Thanks again for the tips guys. I am cool with working on my own vehicles. Other than tires and alignments, none of them have seen a mechanic other than me in 12 years :-) I might take 10 times longer to fix it but I guarantee it will be less expensive and I get more satisfaction out of it!
My CEL is fine.. The CAT I am replacing has a hole in it and is kinda loud so hence needing to replace it. I just dont know if it is $260 worth of loud LOL. Looks like it has been patched before and isnt working too well. Good to know on the upstreams for future reference!
My CEL is fine.. The CAT I am replacing has a hole in it and is kinda loud so hence needing to replace it. I just dont know if it is $260 worth of loud LOL. Looks like it has been patched before and isnt working too well. Good to know on the upstreams for future reference!
I've attempted those type of repairs when I was younger (what w0lvez posted). Unfortunately, none of them would last very long. My experience anyway.
So it's the downstream converter ? Mine cracked across the bottom under the heat shield pass side once. I'd just think about replacing the broken one or both downstreams if that's the case, with a universal IF you need a visual inspection to pass. Nothing fancy if your upstreams are fine. How does the truck run ? Once they begin to plug they will run like garbage..., well down in power.
If investing 300 will get you pass, - I wonder what the cash price is on that ?
Guess I can't believe you can buy a pass so blatantly lol.
06-25-2016, 08:42 PM
#20
Senior Member
