billpru

I lost the only key I had for my 99 F150 4.6L so I attempted to drill out the ignition. I couldn't get the ignition out after drilling per many instructions. Also, I noticed when I took the lower cover off the column, that the 4 wire plug right under the ignition switch was loose. At any rate, I have a 2002 F150 4.2L with a blown motor and 2 good keys so I swapped the steering columns thinking the PATS stuff was all in that module under the wheel. Apparently that isn't true as the truck "Theft" light flashes and I get a 15 code at then end. So, any possibilities to get around this? I cannot imagine that I could swap computers from the 02 4.2L into the 99 4.6L, but then again, I thought swapping whole steering columns would work. Is there anything I'm missing, or anything I can do to get it running. I don't want to have to take it to a dealer, but if I could get it running enough to do that, I would. Any ideas would be appreciated. Oh, by the way, I've tried the 3x15 minute key on until light stops flashing trick. Doesn't work. I've tried unlocking the door with the key and then cycling ignition on and off. Doesn't work.

Thanks,

Bill

akdoggie

The key you are trying to use isn't coded to your trucks PATs. The chip inside the new key is set to another system and will not work with yours. The way to do this right is to have a locksmith come out and reprogram a new key. You already have a correct key cut to fit the lock, but will need the new key matched to PATs.

billpru

Well, I had the truck towed to my local Ford dealer. The tech there said he wasn't sure if it would work because the dissabler was already programmed for a PCM. He tried twice, but then said it had failed. His computer said it went, but the truck wouldn't start and the "Theft" light was flashing. A senior tech said I would probably need a new dissabler, but couldn't guarantee it. I asked about a bypass and the tech told me I could do something. However, I needed my tools and a jump because now the battery was low. I called my son, got my tools and cables, went back and got the truck started. On the drive home, I realized the "Theft" light wasn't flashing so when I got home, I put the truck back the way it was before and the truck started right up. Later that day, while working, I shut the truck off and when I went to start it the "Theft" light was flashing again. I did the bypass and still "Theft" light flashing. I then noticed the battery low indicator light in the dash was on even though the truck was cranking fine. I asked a guy for a jump and the truck fired right up. The battery terminals were corroded so when I got home, I cleaned them up. I'll see today if a new battery is in my future or the other one just wasn't getting a good connection. Now I have to go back and pay the Ford dealer for programming my keys because they didn't charge me since it didn't work.

akdoggie

double post
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akdoggie

You would of been miles ahead if you would of had a locksmith with coding capabilities, come out and cut a new blank key and program it. You already have a key that turns the lock, so a new key would be just a cut, then program thru the VCM/IDS system. It takes a special program to do the programming, and VCM/IDS module to do this. Some Ford dealerships won't even try and program an old key/cylinder switch. It's the ones that know to cut a new key first then program it. Works every time. The ones that aren't familiar with doing this usually require a new switch and blank key, so a locksmith is the best way to go when using old cylinders.

billpru

And there's the problem with living in a rural community. The one locksmith in town was on vacation for 2 weeks. The locksmith that his phone was forwarded to 60 miles away said neither the local guy or him did chip keys. Usually your looking at $150 in trip/travel/service charge just to get someone from Phoenix to show up. The dealer was the only affordable option. I guess I could have bought a VCM module off E-bay for $100, and then rented the software from Ford for $900 per year and then tried to make my money back by doing mobile key reprogramming, but that's too risky.

akdoggie

I didn't know where you were. I figure, since I live in a place that is more remote, Alaska, that you'd have a better access to locksmiths. I guess that isn't correct in your case.

billpru

Ok, update on this. I am continuing to have a problem that I had before the swap and before losing my key. When the truck gets hot (in Arizona so that's often) and I turn it off and let it set for 10 minutes or so, the "Theft" light flashes and the truck won't start. The odd part is if I hook up jumper cables or a battery charger and then try, the light doesn't come on and the truck fires right up. I've swapped batteries, I have an X-Gauge hooked up and the cranking voltage drops down to about 11.7V but sits at 12 to 12.8V when not cranking and 13.8 to 14.1 while running. It acts very much like a vapor lock (for you younger guys, vapor lock happens when the fuel in the line between the tank and the pump gets hot enough to vaporize and the pump can't pull it). Is it possible that the fuel pump is going bad and I'm getting a form of vapor lock there?

akdoggie

There are two at least, of this write up on acting like vapor lock. There is a check valve on the pump unit, that if it malfunctions, will do exactly what you are describing. Cpl and another poster had this very problem. Replacing the pump assembly (complete) will cure this problem if that is indeed your truck's symptoms and fix. By your descriptions, this is where I'd certainly go next. Check the fuel pressure regulator first and go from there.

billpru

I have a 2002 F150 with a blown (up, not supercharged) 4.2L that I stole the column out of. I'll pull the pump assembly out of that. I used to have a fuel pressure gauge, but can't seem to find it.