Axle tube replacement?
11-01-2010, 04:38 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Axle tube replacement?
Hey guys, I'm driving a '99 F150 4x4. I just replaced the upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, and put on new 35" tires. (The truck came with a 5" lift when I bought it used.)
After the alignment I noticed some front end rattling when going over small bumps. I thought at the time that the shocks likely just needed to be replaced.
But, this weekend I crawled back under the truck only to find that the right front axle tube/housing was not only cracked but missing large sections of the cast aluminum. I can actually see the axle inside.
The break in the housing is causing the assembly to sag in the middle, meaning the transfer case on one side of the break, and the CV half axle on the other side are both rattling around the break when I hit bumps, etc.
So...obviously now I have to replace the axle tube, but I have never done this and have some questions for those with experience or knowledge.
1. Does the transfer case have to be dropped to replace the axle tube or can I unbolt the tube from the cv joint and the transfer case and drop it out.
2. Can I buy just the tube? I dont see it listed at any major parts stores. Dealer wants ~$200 but that comes with bearings and other things I dont need.
3. I've driven it in this condition for several days thinking the shocks were the problem. Will the axle itself still be true, or should I replace it also?
4. Is the transfer case fluid circulated through the axle tube or is the tube greased? Meaning, do I have to replace any transfer case fluid that might have been lost through the hole in the axle tube?
5. Anything else to be concerned about, and/or how can I prevent this in the future? (The parts guy at the dealer chuckled, saying this was a common failure point)
I did all the above work myself and have no problem making this repair, just need to understand it first!
Thanks in advance guys, this forum has saved me a lot of man hours already!
Jon
After the alignment I noticed some front end rattling when going over small bumps. I thought at the time that the shocks likely just needed to be replaced.
But, this weekend I crawled back under the truck only to find that the right front axle tube/housing was not only cracked but missing large sections of the cast aluminum. I can actually see the axle inside.
The break in the housing is causing the assembly to sag in the middle, meaning the transfer case on one side of the break, and the CV half axle on the other side are both rattling around the break when I hit bumps, etc.
So...obviously now I have to replace the axle tube, but I have never done this and have some questions for those with experience or knowledge.
1. Does the transfer case have to be dropped to replace the axle tube or can I unbolt the tube from the cv joint and the transfer case and drop it out.
2. Can I buy just the tube? I dont see it listed at any major parts stores. Dealer wants ~$200 but that comes with bearings and other things I dont need.
3. I've driven it in this condition for several days thinking the shocks were the problem. Will the axle itself still be true, or should I replace it also?
4. Is the transfer case fluid circulated through the axle tube or is the tube greased? Meaning, do I have to replace any transfer case fluid that might have been lost through the hole in the axle tube?
5. Anything else to be concerned about, and/or how can I prevent this in the future? (The parts guy at the dealer chuckled, saying this was a common failure point)
I did all the above work myself and have no problem making this repair, just need to understand it first!
Thanks in advance guys, this forum has saved me a lot of man hours already!
Jon
11-01-2010, 05:00 PM
#2
Senior Member
I'm guessing that you're talkin about the tube comming off the front differential... not the transfer case... it'd be much esier to remove the whole axle housing since you're gonna wanna inspect all the components because they've not been lubed...
Pull all the obvious stuff skid plates, Unbolt the CVs and driveshaft, there are three bolts that hold the front axle housing in, one on the pass side tube and two on the drivers side front and rear of the diff... drop the housing out
... spent the $200 and replace the bearings and both axle seals while you have it out that'll save you aggravation when you have to pull it again when you find out your seals are leaking cuz you put gear oil in there... there's not much in there right now to know if it leaks
You'll have to open the diff cover, pull the small bolt that holds the center pin in, slide the center pin out,
Push the axles inward, pull the c clips inside the diff and slide the axles out... inspect all parts
replace your tube and put it all back together...
this should be and easy job
Pull all the obvious stuff skid plates, Unbolt the CVs and driveshaft, there are three bolts that hold the front axle housing in, one on the pass side tube and two on the drivers side front and rear of the diff... drop the housing out
... spent the $200 and replace the bearings and both axle seals while you have it out that'll save you aggravation when you have to pull it again when you find out your seals are leaking cuz you put gear oil in there... there's not much in there right now to know if it leaks
You'll have to open the diff cover, pull the small bolt that holds the center pin in, slide the center pin out,
Push the axles inward, pull the c clips inside the diff and slide the axles out... inspect all parts
replace your tube and put it all back together...
this should be and easy job
Last edited by A7X; 11-01-2010 at 05:12 PM.
but seriously
11-01-2010, 05:51 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats what I was afraid of but was hoping the axle tube would unbolt and drop right out!
The axle itself (and whats left of the tube) are pretty dry. This leads me to believe the differential is empty of fluid also, and I'm SCARED to crack it open and find out what else may have gone wrong.
I had to drive it home this weekend from a hunting trip in that condition, about 2 hours, but I did not engage 4WD and the truck drove good.
Hopefully nothing else is chewed up inside :S
"this should be an easy job" = famous last words!
The axle itself (and whats left of the tube) are pretty dry. This leads me to believe the differential is empty of fluid also, and I'm SCARED to crack it open and find out what else may have gone wrong.
I had to drive it home this weekend from a hunting trip in that condition, about 2 hours, but I did not engage 4WD and the truck drove good.
Hopefully nothing else is chewed up inside :S
"this should be an easy job" = famous last words!
11-01-2010, 06:02 PM
#5
Senior Member
Haha sorry, Granted nothing else is messed up and you have air tools handy... You're gonna wanna pull that thing I don't think it'd be very easy or possible to pull the axle and tube while it's in the truck unless you feel like poppin off the wheel, upper ball joint, lower ball joint, tie rod and swingin the whole steering knuckle aside to make way for the axle shaft n tube... This could be done, IF you can get your hands into the diff housing to pull the center pin and c clips... it'd be much easier to pull it out...
11-03-2010, 04:19 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So this job just got a bit more complicated.
Originally the dealer told me a new tube came with bearings, seals, etc.
Today I called to order the part and they tell me it comes bare, tube only.
I was hoping for a drop and swap but now looks like I need to also replace seals, bearings, and ?
Any tips or advice?
I'm also concerned about having driven the truck for several days with the differential low on fluid, or empty.
Should I bite the bullet and get a new differential?
<sigh>
Originally the dealer told me a new tube came with bearings, seals, etc.
Today I called to order the part and they tell me it comes bare, tube only.
I was hoping for a drop and swap but now looks like I need to also replace seals, bearings, and ?
Any tips or advice?
I'm also concerned about having driven the truck for several days with the differential low on fluid, or empty.
Should I bite the bullet and get a new differential?
<sigh>
11-03-2010, 05:17 PM
#7
Senior Member
you could get a dew diff if ya want... then mail me your old one so I can fix it, put 4.56s in it and have a spare!! haha but seriously bearings and seals are easy to install...
First thing's first call your local junkyards and line one up if ya need it... make sure it's the same ratio...
buy the tube bearings and seals
take yours out open and inspect it...
if the gears are burnt up chipped or chewed or the bearings (carrier, pinion) feel bad... then buy the diff and return the parts from the dealer or... that'd be a good time to learn how to setup a diff haha
if everything's fine put it together and don't worry about the other housing at the junkyard
First thing's first call your local junkyards and line one up if ya need it... make sure it's the same ratio...
buy the tube bearings and seals
take yours out open and inspect it...
if the gears are burnt up chipped or chewed or the bearings (carrier, pinion) feel bad... then buy the diff and return the parts from the dealer or... that'd be a good time to learn how to setup a diff haha
if everything's fine put it together and don't worry about the other housing at the junkyard
Trending Topics
11-03-2010, 07:17 PM
#8
Good day,
IMHO, the parts you would spend on replacing the broken items would be about the same or more than getting a good used unit (same gears is a must) from the local salvage or U-pull-it yard... Pluck and chuck! But that is only what I would do; not saying you should...
Pictures would be great!!!
Good luck!!
Cheers!!
IMHO, the parts you would spend on replacing the broken items would be about the same or more than getting a good used unit (same gears is a must) from the local salvage or U-pull-it yard... Pluck and chuck! But that is only what I would do; not saying you should...
Pictures would be great!!!
Good luck!!
Cheers!!
11-03-2010, 09:35 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Check out http://car-part.com/ Fill in the blanks. You are looking for: Axle Assy FR (4WD w.housing) Check your axle code on Vehicle Certification Label on the B pillar driver side. You will need this info to match the gear ratio.
l 18 — 3.08
l 19 — 3.55
l 26 — 3.73
l 27 — 3.31
l H9 — 3.55
l B6 — 3.73
Find the cheapest one that is in usable condition. Most of the time these axles are hardly used so they are in better condition than the rears. Therer are 6 bolts holding the front half shaft to the axle flange and 4 bolts holding the front driveshaft to the pinion flange. You will need a 12mm 12point socket to remove these bolts. There are 3 bolts holding the axle assy in place. The rear one is attached to the crossmember. 4 bolts hold the cross member to the frame. There is 1 breather tube on the axle and 2 vacuum lines to she shift actuator motor. If you have a factory skid plate it will have 6 10mm bolts holding it in place. If you have a floor jack and some straps or an assistant you do not need to undo anything else.
A good shop manual will give you the removal procedure. It is not difficult but the assembly is heavy so you need a floor jack.
l 18 — 3.08
l 19 — 3.55
l 26 — 3.73
l 27 — 3.31
l H9 — 3.55
l B6 — 3.73
Find the cheapest one that is in usable condition. Most of the time these axles are hardly used so they are in better condition than the rears. Therer are 6 bolts holding the front half shaft to the axle flange and 4 bolts holding the front driveshaft to the pinion flange. You will need a 12mm 12point socket to remove these bolts. There are 3 bolts holding the axle assy in place. The rear one is attached to the crossmember. 4 bolts hold the cross member to the frame. There is 1 breather tube on the axle and 2 vacuum lines to she shift actuator motor. If you have a factory skid plate it will have 6 10mm bolts holding it in place. If you have a floor jack and some straps or an assistant you do not need to undo anything else.
A good shop manual will give you the removal procedure. It is not difficult but the assembly is heavy so you need a floor jack.
11-04-2010, 12:18 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the info everyone.
The plot thickens again (for the better). The tube came in today so I called the parts guy and asked him to look at it, and it does in fact come with the bearings, seals, etc. afterall. Not sure why they did not know this originally, but its good news.
Will I really have to disconnect the axle from inside the differential, or can I just slide the old tube off (and new one back on) toward the CV joint once I've disconnected both CV joints and dropped the differential?
The plot thickens again (for the better). The tube came in today so I called the parts guy and asked him to look at it, and it does in fact come with the bearings, seals, etc. afterall. Not sure why they did not know this originally, but its good news.
Will I really have to disconnect the axle from inside the differential, or can I just slide the old tube off (and new one back on) toward the CV joint once I've disconnected both CV joints and dropped the differential?