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Old 10-28-2014, 11:02 AM   #1
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Default anyone run into this problem when lowering the front? (pic)

first off, this is my 03 2wd standard cab circle track project. i used explorer spindles and upper arms in order to get away from the 5x135 bolt pattern so i can run the right wheels, but i'd like to use crown vic spindles or something similar to get away from that goofy upper balljoint angle.. but anywho, the concern here in this pic is the sway bar angle.. when this thing is dumped as far as i want it to be, that upper end link angle is crazy.. anyone ever run into that and what did you do?
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:11 PM   #2
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When I lowered my truck I had the same issue. The sway bar end links made for a bad angle as you want the sway bar parallel to the ground. I shortened up the sleeve and got corresponding shorter bolt. I believe I took an inch off the sleeve and a inch shorter bolt.
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:26 PM   #3
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well in the circle track world we use an ajustable end link to set preload on the sway bar.. basically 3/8" allthread and some fatty body washers and lock nuts to crank them down where we want them.. so i could technically make it shorter.. i was just wondering what the concensus was with doing more than a 2" drop on the front or if it just requires an aftermarket bar. i'd like to bring it down about 5" static in the front but i cant use aftermarket parts aside from the coils.. but i can run aftermarket sway bars.

i've flipped the rear and fitted a 9" in the back, and i have a pair of shackles to drop it more, and i'm planning on removing the overload spring, so i need to get the front down as low as i can to match. i'm thinking about flipping the lower balljoint, using either a pinto or crown vic spindle designed to have the lower ball joint facing UP, with a shorter spindle height than the 12" tall one that you see in the pic..
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:45 PM   #4
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btw this is how it looks right now.. stock height coil on driver side (just cause i havent yanked it yet), in this pic passenger side is drawn up as far as i can get it and chained up. that's about the camber i want on the passenger side, driver's will be cambered out slightly, and ill need to open up the upper arm mounts on the frame for the adjustability
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Old 10-29-2014, 07:15 PM   #5
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You need to build a bump steer kit. the outer tie rod needs to be one the bottom or once the suspension is loaded it will hit the frame.
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Old Yesterday, 10:10 AM   #6
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i was planning on flipping the tie rod.. was contemplating heims on the end but i'll address that once i'm happy with the spindle situation.

How do i build a bumpsteer kit? i know what bumpsteer is, just havent had to deal with it. haha
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Old Yesterday, 12:53 PM   #7
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You can only adjust bump steer once the truck is at the weight you need it at and sitting on the the ground. But basically the tie rod is completely level with the ground. SO basically you could draw a straight line from one end to the other. As fas as the spindle goes I have no clue what would work best. But I would try to find something that has the OLD 5x5.5 bolt pattern and greasable bearings. Hub bearing wont like the load being put on them in oval racing..
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Old Yesterday, 12:55 PM   #8
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Also another bad point of it being so low, if your required to use factory mounting location you'll never be able to dial in positive camber on the LF.
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Old Yesterday, 05:18 PM   #9
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if i decide to stick with the ranger/explorer spindles, i can use the 2wd units and get the traditional hubs.. i just got these dirt cheap with the calipers and liked the floating rotor aspect.. IF i go with the pinto spindles i can use a conversion rotor to get to 5x4.5. i'm commited to this bolt pattern since i've already got the basset wheels, and they dont make the right wheels in a 5x5.5 pattern. i might also check the earlier 90s crown vic spindles too.. and im planning on talking to the track director about welding up some slotted flat stock on the driver's side to give myself enough camber adjustment.

As for the balljoint flip, does the LCA need to be modified at all? or is it just the spindle that needs to be hogged out to accept the ball joint angle?
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Old Today, 01:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyracing26 View Post
if i decide to stick with the ranger/explorer spindles, i can use the 2wd units and get the traditional hubs.. i just got these dirt cheap with the calipers and liked the floating rotor aspect.. IF i go with the pinto spindles i can use a conversion rotor to get to 5x4.5. i'm commited to this bolt pattern since i've already got the basset wheels, and they dont make the right wheels in a 5x5.5 pattern. i might also check the earlier 90s crown vic spindles too.. and im planning on talking to the track director about welding up some slotted flat stock on the driver's side to give myself enough camber adjustment.

As for the balljoint flip, does the LCA need to be modified at all? or is it just the spindle that needs to be hogged out to accept the ball joint angle?
A ball joint flip is a little risky as it doesnt have the correct mounting surface for a snap ring to retain the ball joint.
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Old Today, 01:04 AM
 
 
 
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