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'99 F150 4.6L Windsor Motor ENGINE SLAP/KNOCK

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Old 06-09-2011, 11:44 PM
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Default '99 F150 4.6L Windsor Motor ENGINE SLAP/KNOCK

Hello all. I just don't have the time to roam all forums and check around for solutions but....

I have a 1999 Ford F150 Ext Cab 4x4 with a 4.6L Windsor motor. I only have 97k on it. YES 97k. This was my old man's truck before I bought it from him.

The other day, I was towing my boat with the A/C on, upon getting home, I heard some clicking/clacking/ticking noise coming from the passenger side of the engine. When I touched the valve cover on that side, I could feel each slap/tick/clink it made. The faster I idle my truck, I can still hear it click/tick/clink/clatter but not as loud as at regular idle.

I checked some forums, I double checked all my spark plugs they were tight, my altenator was not making any bearing noises, I did not check my manifolds to see if they were leaking but I doubt it be that. I check my oil, it was good (500 mi on it only). My oil filter is a Napa Gold Series so that's good.

I am at a lost with this please help.
Old 08-06-2011, 08:34 PM
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I had this same problem with my 2002 at 107,000 miles. Unfortunately my engine locked up before I could drill down to the root of the evil. I am almost 100 percent confident that you need to replace your timing chains and do it soon. The knocking you hear is the self tensioner out of adjustment causing your chains to rub the cover and the guide rails. Ford recommends replacing the chains and gears at 100,000. If you wait too long debris from the guid rails will clog up your oil pump and lock down your motor.
Old 08-06-2011, 08:57 PM
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I'd say a timing chain or lifters and if you're doing one you might as well do both anyway.
Old 08-07-2011, 04:47 AM
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Sounds like the guides and tensioner have too much play and slop, causing the chains to slap. I'd pull those covers, check the inside for wear marks from the chain rubbing. If there, time to change them out. If there is no visible wear, then I'd check the manifolds. You description of feeling the clicks, lends credence to the chains slapping.
Old 08-07-2011, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by yngk2005
Hello all. I just don't have the time to roam all forums and check around for solutions but....

I have a 1999 Ford F150 Ext Cab 4x4 with a 4.6L Windsor motor. I only have 97k on it. YES 97k. This was my old man's truck before I bought it from him.

The other day, I was towing my boat with the A/C on, upon getting home, I heard some clicking/clacking/ticking noise coming from the passenger side of the engine. When I touched the valve cover on that side, I could feel each slap/tick/clink it made. The faster I idle my truck, I can still hear it click/tick/clink/clatter but not as loud as at regular idle.

I checked some forums, I double checked all my spark plugs they were tight, my altenator was not making any bearing noises, I did not check my manifolds to see if they were leaking but I doubt it be that. I check my oil, it was good (500 mi on it only). My oil filter is a Napa Gold Series so that's good.

I am at a lost with this please help.
There is nothing special about a Napa Gold oil filter. It is the same as Carquests Premium. Both are made by Wix. This filter has no drain back check, This is not good for cold weather or high mileage engines that require instant oil. Motorcraft and Purolater are two general brands that for sure have this. Fram is a joke. Open one, you'll never use another. Going back to the oil filters on a Ford, use Motorcraft. You'll find in the cold weather, that your engine will last much longer than most any other brand. You won't have that NO-Oil pressure start up ticking lifter noise. Good luck.
Old 08-07-2011, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by akdoggie
There is nothing special about a Napa Gold oil filter. It is the same as Carquests Premium. Both are made by Wix. This filter has no drain back check, This is not good for cold weather or high mileage engines that require instant oil. Motorcraft and Purolater are two general brands that for sure have this. Fram is a joke. Open one, you'll never use another. Going back to the oil filters on a Ford, use Motorcraft. You'll find in the cold weather, that your engine will last much longer than most any other brand. You won't have that NO-Oil pressure start up ticking lifter noise. Good luck.
I went out and dug this up for you on oil filters. This information came from one of the ASE affiliate sites, and is quite up to date. It spells out what is good and what is bad. Wix didn't rate too well (NAPA Gold & Carquest Premium). Fram didnt' rate well at all. Actually quite poorly, as I pointed out. Hope this helps out some.

Purolator, Mobil1, Motorcraft, Mann, and Amsoil.


Purolator Pure One and K&N oil filters are decent. However the media seems dense enough to impede the passage of oil. Those filters are built well.

MANN+HUMMEL & Bosch own Purolator as of 2006. Purolator was previously an ArvinMeritor product and considered to be one of the finest oil filters in the business. MANN+HUMMEL also make oil filters for the German car manufacturers, BMW, Audi, and Porsche. We're impressed by the construction of the Mann filter. Bosch outsources their oil filters to Champion Labs. And the Bosch filters are awful.

Hastings manufactures Amsoil, Baldwin, and Hastings oil filters. All good stuff.

Champion Labs produces oil filters under a variety of names. Those include Fram, STP, SuperTech, Delphi, Bosch, Mobil1, K&N, AC Delco, and a few others too insignificant to mention. There's a lot of Good, Bad, and Ugly in there.

Motorcraft has one of, if not the best filtration on the market, with bypass and check valves in all their filters.

Some brands should be avoided like poisonous frogs. Fram, Bosch and WIX make the worst oil filters. Bosch oil filters let everything go through unfiltered. The Delphi and STP filters are identical to the Walmart SuperTech brand for double the price. The Delphi, STP and Walmart oil filters have no bypass valve so everything gets filtered. We don't know if the thing will come apart under severe stress.

Fram oil filters are notoriously awful in construction quality. The end caps are cardboard! Bits of cardboard flake off and bind up in engine parts causing damage. Fram also advertises that their filters are impregnated with PTFE (Teflon). Teflon is a solid plastic that melts together in the oil passages and forms a clot. Fram oil filters are a proven way to ruin Chrysler 2.0L engines. Some Ford 4.6/5.4/6.8's have been known to clog oil pick up tubes with pieces of cardboard.


The WIX oil filters that we've seen use undersized filtration media. If a WIX oil filter is cut open, usually only about half of it will be filled by filter material. The rest of the space may be occupied by a plastic insert or other filler.

Last edited by akdoggie; 08-07-2011 at 05:36 AM.
Old 08-07-2011, 09:25 AM
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The man from the land of the 22 hour sun has put up another good post. Nice going AK. I have been using the Framm because of the no slip grip, but after reading this, its back to Motorcraft, besides I have the filter tool made for the Motorcraft corregated end. You can't accuse me of "Too quick old, too late smart". (Cough, cough)
Old 08-08-2011, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Good old Bill
The man from the land of the 22 hour sun has put up another good post. Nice going AK. I have been using the Framm because of the no slip grip, but after reading this, its back to Motorcraft, besides I have the filter tool made for the Motorcraft corregated end. You can't accuse me of "Too quick old, too late smart". (Cough, cough)
Thanks for the props. I've been in the automotive field selling parts and doing service/warranty all my life. I've never been brand loyal, except to Ford and Coca Cola. lol. I worked for a rare, full line GM dealership for over 10 years, and you couldn't give me a Chevrolet, but you could a GMC. Does that make sense? It would if you understood GM's service/warranty. GMC would bend over backwards to satisfy the customer where Chevrolet would just bend the customer over. I've always had good to great service/warranty work with Ford. JMO



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