99 Dead for 2 years, recommentadions?
#1
99 Dead for 2 years, recommentadions?
Two years ago previous owner bust a brake line from master cylinder to box below and parks the truck. Two years later I buy it for 500.00. She
also had problems with no heat and a knock that went away after warm up. The body looks good except for one small dent the size of a dime. Its a 4X4 with a 4.6 V8 triton, extended cab. Interior is in good shape, battery stone cold dead. I put a charger on it and will check fluids tomorrow. Suggestions? Do you think the old gas has gumed up any internals. Give me your thoughts.
also had problems with no heat and a knock that went away after warm up. The body looks good except for one small dent the size of a dime. Its a 4X4 with a 4.6 V8 triton, extended cab. Interior is in good shape, battery stone cold dead. I put a charger on it and will check fluids tomorrow. Suggestions? Do you think the old gas has gumed up any internals. Give me your thoughts.
Last edited by mercdod; 08-19-2015 at 10:34 PM.
#2
99 Dead for 2 years, recommentadions?
First fix that brake line. No heat may be plugged heater core/lines, and/or blend door. How much gas was in it? Probably bad by now, empty and refill. The knock is something you'd have to hear for yourself but you'd have to get running first. I would change the oil/filter, and the fuel filter then get it to run. Listen to that knock, if any. I'm thinking it could be piston slap when cold. I may be wrong. If all seems well, flush the cooling system and replace the thermostat. Run Techron complete fuel system cleaner through it (wonderful stuff). IF ALL IS STILL WELL I'd change the oil again and maybe start an Auto Rx regiment. Pan drop on tranny, tune up on ignition, wash and wax, then go from there as you feel comfortable. I run Zerex G-05 in my trucks cooling system since I have cast block and aluminum heads. O'Reillys has it in back, just ask. That's where I'd start, if anyone else wants to add or edit my reply feel free. This is my opinion.
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
First fix that brake line. No heat may be plugged heater core/lines, and/or blend door. How much gas was in it? Probably bad by now, empty and refill. The knock is something you'd have to hear for yourself but you'd have to get running first. I would change the oil/filter, and the fuel filter then get it to run. Listen to that knock, if any. I'm thinking it could be piston slap when cold. I may be wrong. If all seems well, flush the cooling system and replace the thermostat. Run Techron complete fuel system cleaner through it (wonderful stuff). IF ALL IS STILL WELL I'd change the oil again and maybe start an Auto Rx regiment. Pan drop on tranny, tune up on ignition, wash and wax, then go from there as you feel comfortable. I run Zerex G-05 in my trucks cooling system since I have cast block and aluminum heads. O'Reillys has it in back, just ask. That's where I'd start, if anyone else wants to add or edit my reply feel free. This is my opinion.
As far as the no heat goes, you will have 2 hoses that meet the passenger side firewall and flow through the heater core. After the truck warms up grab both of these hoses and see if they are both warm to the touch. If they are you have a blend door problem. If they are not you have a heater core problem. Both are a PIA.
#4
I removed the fuel filter and installed a short piece of flex line to a 5 gallon can with the intention of removing the old gas. I turned the key to the on position and nothing. Checked the fuse and it was good. Does this mean that sitting for so long that the fuel pump needs to be replaced?
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I removed the fuel filter and installed a short piece of flex line to a 5 gallon can with the intention of removing the old gas. I turned the key to the on position and nothing. Checked the fuse and it was good. Does this mean that sitting for so long that the fuel pump needs to be replaced?
#6
Senior
I removed the fuel filter and installed a short piece of flex line to a 5 gallon can with the intention of removing the old gas. I turned the key to the on position and nothing. Checked the fuse and it was good. Does this mean that sitting for so long that the fuel pump needs to be replaced?
#7
Not humming and I had just removed the battery from a battery tender that show it had a full charge and it spins the motor over easily. Maybe its the relay...anyone know where that's at?
Last edited by mercdod; 09-19-2015 at 10:45 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior
OK now it turns over, when you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump running? if not it may be gummed up from the fuel setting for so long if it was ethanol fuel. How much fuel is showing in the tank, if any? If you can get non ethanol fuel if the tank is empty put 5 gallons in and let it set for a day or two and recheck the pump (this is a temp fix if it works, pump will need changing soon, but this might clean the solid lines if you can get fuel to flow)
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
#9
I removed the bed and disconnected the fuel pump electrical connector at the pump, turned the key to the "on" position and probed with a simple 12 volt tester that tested good at the battery but shows no current at the fuel pump connector. I pulled the relay that the book shows as the fuel pump relay and current is coming from the battery and from the trigger side of the relay socket. I switched relays with one that was beside it and still no current at the fuel pump electrical connector. I see that there are (4) conductors at the connector, does anyone know which ones I can jump out to test the pump itself? I don't understand why I get no current, is there a diagram somewhere that shows the pin layout on the fuel pump connector? Any Ideas?
#10
Senior
Have you checked the #18 fuse in the under hood junction box? Fuse 18 powers all the injectors, IAC, MAF, PCM, and the coil side of the fuel pump relay. (found in old thread)
Last edited by GhostriderI; 09-20-2015 at 05:36 PM.