Go Back   Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans > Late Model F150s > 1997 - 2003 Ford F150
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-08-2012, 10:17 PM   #1
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default 99-03 LED cluster color change

For the people who dont like the green illumination in our truck heres how you can change that.

Whats included in the color swap...
Cluster
HVAC
Door switches
headlight switch
cruise buttons

Whats needed...
Cluster - 37/74 style LEDs X6
HVAC - 194 style LEDs X2
Door switches - 3.5mm x 2.8mm surface mount LEDs X5
Headlight switch - 5mm LED X1 + 680ohm 1/2watt resistor X1
Cruise Buttons - 3mm LED X3 + 680ohm 1/2watt resistor X2

I got all the LEDs from www.superbrightleds.com except for the surface mounts, I got those from www.oznium.com

First off youll want to take a picture of every gauge with the truck turned off to mark the needle location.

This is an extremely important step!! start the truck and let it idle for about 5 minutes and take a picture of all the gauges, mines idles at 800RPM, to make it easier on yourself do it when your fuel level is right on a line.

Then youll need to remove the cluster from the truck, I wont go into detail about how to do that on this thread, If you dont already know how you can visit my odometer fix thread where i showed step by step how to remove it... link below

http://www.f150forum.com/f75/97-03-odometer-fix-93814/

Then take a T15 torx bit and take the back plate off
Click the image to open in full size.

Now go ahead and undo the ribbon wire on the odometer and gently pry the circuit board off
Click the image to open in full size.

Flip it over and remove the rest of the T15 torx screws and take it apart
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now youll have to remove the needles, to do this i just used a fork
Click the image to open in full size.

Now you want to be real careful, seriously if not youll make a cut on the overlay. its glued down in a few spots so start pulling it off on one side, it may help to heat it up too, when you get to the glue spots, and youll know it when you get there, I used a sharp razor blade to cut the glue close to the plastic backing plate. Now you have the overlay off
Click the image to open in full size.

Then just pop the pegs on the speedo and tach off and lay them with the needles

Heres where it gets fun, you have to remove the green tint. I used a bunch of Q-tips and acetone. On the odometer I first used finger nail polish remover but it still looked green so i went back over it and it went clear. Only use the cleaners on the back because it will eat away the black on the front
Click the image to open in full size.

Now when you get all the green tint stripped you can put some white over it to reduce hotspots and diffuse the light. I put down scotch tape and used a paint marker to go over it all. to add color to the odometer you can either put scotch tape and sharpie it or tape down some film, I used blue plastic film i got at micheals
Click the image to open in full size.

Now its a good idea to reinstall the cluster temporary to check for hotspots so you can put another layer of white on the back in those areas

When it looks good to you then put the cluster back together and lay it to the side. I used some 3M spray adhesive to glue it back on.

I doubt you want a green gear selector so youll have to strip the green off of it too. To do this use more Q-tips and finger nail polish remover. FINGER NAIL POLISH REMOVER! NOT ACETONE. Acetone will turn it into a clear rectangle. Then more scotch tape and white paint
Click the image to open in full size.

Heres just a pic of the circuit board with the LED installed
Click the image to open in full size.

Now you can reinstall the cluster and set the needles. I mainly used the pics of it running after 5 minutes to set them accurately. Dont push them on too hard or they'll stick and not sweep correctly.

To set the speedometer youll have to do it moving. I found a long straight road and set the cruise at 40mph according to my GPS which I've tested and its really accurate. Had my buddy hold the steering wheel to keep it on the road while i positioned the needle and reinstalled it. Now all my gauges are as accurate if not more than they were before.

Last edited by Lenn; 11-05-2012 at 04:49 PM.
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 2000MTZ For This Useful Post:
Almighty (09-09-2012), patches4231 (11-03-2012), WolfgangOne (09-16-2013)
Old 09-08-2012, 10:30 PM   #2
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Next up the HVAC!

First you need to pop off the radio and hvac surround and unplug the airbag switch.

Then unscrew the 4 bolts holding the hvac in and disconnect all the wiring harnesses on the back, this kind of takes a while

Now you can take a flat head screw driver and pop the ***** off
Click the image to open in full size.

When you flip the ***** over youll see a little green cube
Click the image to open in full size.

Just grab it and pull it out
Click the image to open in full size.

I used my razor blade to scrape all the green and white off the tip. HOWEVER in later years they did switch to a solid green piece so in that case youll need to find a earlier model junker and grab the ***** off of it
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I taped off around the tips and spray painted the tips back white so their visible in daylight. Now just stick them back in the *****.

Now you can pry the back off, which is quite a pain since theres so many
Click the image to open in full size.

Unclip the clear piece that directs the light and dump the green sheet out
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now put some scotch tape on the bottom parts and paint it white, If you dont youll have bad hotspots
Click the image to open in full size.

Now just put it all back together, minus the green sheet, and press the ***** back in place.

I used these LEDs
Click the image to open in full size.

Now the HVAC is DONE! just reinstall it in the truck and enjoy the new color
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 10:44 PM   #3
Resident light whore
 
BrowningSCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 25,255
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Thanks: 15
Thanked 568 Times in 490 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Ok, probably a stupid question but since the truck isn't running wont the needles be zero'd already? And just but them back like that on the pegs??
__________________
See here for the full LED bulb guide!!http://www.f150forum.com/f6/97-03-le...-guide-174498/
My SCrew's build thread, check it out http://www.f150forum.com/f78/slowly-...ogress-141914/
BrowningSCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 10:46 PM   #4
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Ok, Next up the Headlight Switch

To do this you do technically have to 'break' the switch.

First Pull the **** out like for fogs and stick something small in the hole to release the ****, now just pull it off

To get to the inside you have to pop the faceplate off, this is what I mean by breaking it.
Click the image to open in full size.

Undo these 2 clips to the first half can pull out
Click the image to open in full size.

grab the shaft and pull it out
Click the image to open in full size.

The next half is harder to get out, the clips are harder to get to, you can see them here
Click the image to open in full size.

Now pull that half out
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the bulb that your replacing, and the green cover that was on it that I ripped off
Click the image to open in full size.

Now unsolder the leads on the back to pull it off.

Stick the negative lead back in the original hole (lower) and solder it on there
Stick one side of the 680ohm 1/2watt resister in the original hole and solder it on there
Now wrap the positive lead on the LED around the lead on the resistor and solder them together
Click the image to open in full size.

Try to get the new LED as close to the stock bulb location as possible and put the dimmer switch side back in
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now finish reinstalling the switch parts, I used 2 part loctite epoxy to put the faceplate back on

Alright now your done with the headlight switch

Last edited by Lenn; 11-05-2012 at 04:49 PM.
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 10:55 PM   #5
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Ok now possibly the easiest thing to convert... The door switches

Remove the switches from the door
Click the image to open in full size.

Flip them over and unclip them to get the actual switches out, I used an ice pick
Click the image to open in full size.

Now pop the 2 sides of the switches apart to expose the light
Click the image to open in full size.

Yep, those little tiny squares are the lights.

Now take a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the LED and use a soldering iron to unsolder the LED.

Make note of the pattern inside the original LED and which way it was in there so you put the new LEDs in the same way, If not they wont burn

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

The LEDs needed, I ordered 8 but you only need 5, only $.59 each
Click the image to open in full size.

Its a good idea to test them after each one you do to make sure you got it on the right way
Click the image to open in full size.

Now just pop the switches back together and reinstall them, took me maybe 20 minutes start to finish
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 10:58 PM   #6
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

The Overhead console is sadly a green plastic cover and a green LCD screen
Click the image to open in full size.

I even tried this...
Click the image to open in full size.

But still pretty green and pretty distorted, idk how to change that effectively. But Im open to suggestions

Have not done the cruise control buttons yet but their next on the list
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 11:02 PM   #7
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Here is the finished product

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Ill post night shots when photobucket uploads my pictures
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 11:03 PM   #8
call me Randy
 
2000MTZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 6,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 150 Times in 123 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrowningSCrew View Post
Ok, probably a stupid question but since the truck isn't running wont the needles be zero'd already? And just but them back like that on the pegs??
Sadly no, I tried that first. Every one of them was off
2000MTZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 11:06 PM   #9
Resident light whore
 
BrowningSCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 25,255
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Thanks: 15
Thanked 568 Times in 490 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000MTZ
Sadly no, I tried that first. Every one of them was off
Alright, that complicates it a bit but I still want to do it lol. So set everything while is running....Will the speedo still be off if you set it while the truck is running and you're going 0?!?
__________________
See here for the full LED bulb guide!!http://www.f150forum.com/f6/97-03-le...-guide-174498/
My SCrew's build thread, check it out http://www.f150forum.com/f78/slowly-...ogress-141914/
BrowningSCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 11:09 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
01SilverCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Oregon, WI
Posts: 1,249
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Great write up! Ill be doing this soon
__________________
2001 F150 Crew - So many mods it wont let me list all them anymore
01SilverCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2012, 11:09 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Join F150 Forum

 

The Mustang Source
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2006 - 20011 F150forum.com
This site is in no way affiliated with the Ford Motor Company.