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it looks like all the blocks are ment to be stacked, are there blocks that replace the stock one completely, so i would need around a 6inch block to lift 2 inches, angled would be nice too.
i may get a 2 inch block and a shackle for angle and exta half inch of lift its a 1 inch
shackel
also my front end is squeaky i checked the lower ball joints and they wont move side to side like in youtube videos ,when i pry it goes up and down abit?
the tire shop says its all bad and wont do alignment with out changeing it all for 2500 i feel no play inthe steering, i checked the pitman arm for play
Stock block is only 2",a 4" would lift the rear 2" over stock. I have a 4.5" suspension lift and my blocks are only 5.5".
so you replaced the stock block does the new one have a bump stop or does it need it?
i can get a 4inch cast iron with no angle or a 2 inch with angle for the same price
i had a 383 blazer for 10 years with a 7 inch solid iron blocks that i found in a trash pile at les shwab i welded on semi truck axle pushers with big pins and drilled the blocks they where solid and a challenge to drill
the lift was put on hold there is a grinding tinging noise comeing from the bell housing after its started. the noise increases while accelerating then goes away and doesn't come back when restarted until it sits over night any thoughts, through the fly wheel inspection hole , teeth look good
wanna lift mt truck a little or cheaply its a 4.6l 4x4 with cab
it has many miles and pings on hills , if i do decide on a better lift then torsion keys i can always transfer to a new truck, an links to these lifts or price or experience post plz.
tires are kelly safari tsr lt285/70/r17 what size are these?
also the rear has blocks with a shoe thing stickin inward are these stock?
if i get blocks do i have to stack them or will they be taller enough to lift it?
if i wrench the front up a inch and get 2 or 3 inch rear blocks will it need longer shocks? the 3 inch block is angled
if i should have shocks too is this kit a good one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2003-4W...-/380849494408
why does it say 2.5 inch but it has only a 1 inch block?
As a rule, I don't trust anything on eBay that's either not an OEM part, or a known aftermarket brand such as Comp Cams, BBK, etc. The Rough Country website has affordable leveling kits for our trucks, from just the keys to keys, blocks and shocks. Don't really see a need for a kit if you're just gonna run a 33" tire. Usually a few turns on your stock keys will prevent any rubbing you might encounter, which shouldn't be much.
The article that Tackle referred to you in this Forum https://www.f150forum.com/f6/35s-tbars-cranked-197341/
has tons of info and testimonials from our members that'll help you with your choice.
Last edited by BossRacing71; 07-23-2014 at 12:40 AM.
i got it fixed it was the starter.... i noticed im missing one of those rubber plugs on the front frame do i need those there is sand and rock in there all ready.
thanks boss i messaged the guy with the ebay list he says you dont stack the block so it would only give a 2 inch lift i think he might be confused and dont realize my truck has a stock block even though i told him it has one, but i didnt say stock owell,
ima order the 2inch rear block and crank the front 1 inch my rear gets hung up getting to the mud holes i go to and the trailer plug is all bent up id take it off but its welded on
i got it fixed it was the starter.... i noticed im missing one of those rubber plugs on the front frame do i need those there is sand and rock in there all ready.
thanks boss i messaged the guy with the ebay list he says you dont stack the block so it would only give a 2 inch lift i think he might be confused and dont realize my truck has a stock block even though i told him it has one, but i didnt say stock owell,
ima order the 2inch rear block and crank the front 1 inch my rear gets hung up getting to the mud holes i go to and the trailer plug is all bent up id take it off but its welded on
Your stock block should be 2",go with a 3" for 1" of lift.
while im at it i wana change the trans fluid, im trying to see if theres a converter drain plug, but i cant get the fan shroud off any tips?
i had the trans serviced last year, i called and they said it was a pan drop only used 8 quarts of dextron what ever brand on hand, and they claim the fluid type dont matter, its a major trans shop in wa
here is the fluid i bought it says mercon lv, i called valvoline ,and they said it will work i forgot to ask if it will mix with the old
the old may be ams synthetic i know everything else was changed to it but not sure on the trans
here is the fluid
I stacked the 4" block included with my zone lift on top of the tapered factory block with the bump stops on it. But, I welded them together to function as a single unit. Your absolutely right on not stacking blocks. It can be very dangerous. ::
Yeah jacked up knows all about it................... haha
07-19-2014, 02:53 AM
:
haha