4x4dave

Here's the planned specs on my build:

stock 42lb injectors
Eaton M112 blower off a 00' lightning
4lb lower pulley
Dual 255 Walbro fuel pumps
SCT BA 2600 MAF - 90mm
Ported TB
Custom gauge setup
Stock lightning intake
Stock intercooler
Stock Heat exchanger
NGK TR6 gapped at .30

Anyhow i've gotten all the parts secured! Here's some OLD pictures. My final shipment of parts is coming in soon

4x4dave

So my plan is to minimize downtime since this is my DD. I'm doing everything else prior to ripping apart the top end of the motor. So i started with the gauges:

I hate the look of the 3 gauge pod, and i lose the functionality of the o-**** bar. And the topmost gauge is practically on the ceiling... So i ended up doing some modification on the autometer 17310.







Gauge wiring complete:


Painted!


Finished!

4x4dave

Next was the pod for the boost gauge.... Autometer 15004.

I just realized this part of trim does not fit. The stock one on my truck is longer on the right side. Notice how it surrounds the entire key-hole where the new trim ends right above the key hole!





I wonder if i can retrofit the bottom part of a 97-2001 f150 to fit?
Also how the F do i remove the starter solinoid / switch so i can remove this trim? Help on this plz!

4x4dave

Got the wideband controller hooked up. Look at all this wiring!!





Bung is installed with wideband sensor. But i have an exhaust leak where the bung and sensor mate. It sounds horrendous. Whats the torque spec on the sensor? I figured turn it as tight as possible! I suppose i could put a little more arm into if that would fix it...


Heat exchanger, fuel pumps and the steering column pod are next!

SR2K

Do you mean the ignition lock? Just put the key in and turn it to run, then on the bottom of the steeringwheel there are 4 holes, 3 have screws in them, one doesn't. Take a phillips head screwdriver and push up on the little tab in the hole without a screw, while pulling outwards on the ignition, it should pop right out.

Z7What

Just to give you a heads up a SINGLE 255LPH will support a 6# lower. So you can save some money only buying one. I have done two swaps in the past and work on alot of Ls ad HDs so if you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Also with a 4# lower I'd recommend .034 gapped plugs.

Wayne

4x4dave

Thanks alot! I will give that a shot. Now just to get that damn steering column pod to fit

4x4dave

Thnx!

Whats your thoughts on a 4# lower. Is that too excessive? 155k on clock. My tuner is thinking it's pretty high for my stock engine. I do live in Colorado. So air is less dense out here too btw...

Bell Blue Raider

If you just need that black trim around the key off then just pop it off with a flat head screw driver. It's just snapped into place

Z7What

With that kind of miles I would think twice about it for sure. I ran a 4# lower but my motor only had 70k and my second only had 30K. Boosting a heavy 4x4 takes learn how to drive the truck in a completely new way. No WOT from rolls, no OD to 2nd kickdowns, etc.

Who's tuning it?