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4.6 -5.4 conversion 97 f150 4x4 need some advice

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Old 11-24-2010, 01:04 PM
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Default 4.6 -5.4 conversion 97 f150 4x4 need some advice

ok so last night went too leave from school and my truck wouldnt start almost like the battery was too weak too turn the engine so playd with it for a while and it finaly started and blow a bunch of white smoke till it warmed up. got home same thing today wouldnt start kept tryn and it finaly did same thing lots of white smoke smelt like antifreez. the water level in this truck has never moved in this truck the whole time iv owned it so i poped the reserver cap got air bubble and missen water pull the oil cap and see white mixter so got a blowed head gasket so now im deciden wat too do

1. rebuild the engine myself i have the tools and know how just not the space and its turnin cold around here. also if i do this much work i might as well rebuild the whole thing top too bottum its out and there.
2. buy a good used 4.6 drop in bolt up kinda hard too find.
3. buy a 5.4 with a computer and wiring harness also out of a f250 4x4 not a 100% shure it will bolt up too my 4.6 tranny.

any ideas would be helpfull if i can do it i wouldnt mind havin the 5.4 but dont want alot of modifaction as this is my daily driver and need it goin by next week.

my bigest question is if a 5.4 will fit and if so out of what type of trucks. my model did have the option of the 5.4

truck info: 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 Trition V8 Automatic with manual lever action 4x4. engine was pushin 230,000 as far as i know its never been torn apart before

oo ya almost forgot the temp was fine and oil pressure but i did notice on the way too school yester day afternoon it felt like i was hittin a head wind i didnt think anything bout it.

some more truck info iv been doin some research and my truck has the rodeo and a transe code U witch is the 4R70w transmission. from wat iv found so far is that it is fairly easy too do minor mods.

Last edited by bones2o21; 11-24-2010 at 07:08 PM.
Old 11-24-2010, 08:38 PM
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The 5.4 is a simple, remove the 4.6, install the 5.4 use the 5.5 PCM. If you keep the 4.6 I would do a complete rebuild, that is to many miles for just a head job, IMO.
Old 11-24-2010, 10:16 PM
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If you do go the route of the 5.4 upgrade, you can also use your existing computer/ignition system and have it tuned to run optimally for the larger engine. All of the sensors/controls will work on either engine as long as your 5.4 is a 2-valve engine.
Old 11-25-2010, 06:22 PM
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ok ty for the info ill check into the 5.4 option i also found a 4.6 both are about 150 miles away and both are around 600. Ill check my local junk yards tommro when they reopen hopfully they have somthin and i dont have too travel so far.
Old 11-25-2010, 08:37 PM
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Follow the link in my sig. If you have any questions post them up.
Old 11-27-2010, 07:03 PM
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update: found another 4.6 out of a car 160,000 miles 6 month unlimeted mile warrenty 500. requires pully swap out and intak swap. today got the engine rdy too be pulled in the mornin had too remove the intake too reach the top two tranny bolts the only other 2 options were move the engine tranny and transer case forward as one or unbolt the body and jack it up. fuel rail compression connectors are anoying got one but broke my plastic tool for removing the other. pulled the plugs so i could rotate the engine for removeing the torque converter and found cylinder number 1 was full of water. busted 2 of the exahast junktion bolts but the other engine has headers on it so no big deal.

couple of pics after removeing the intake.



if some one has a better way of removing those top two trany bolts let me know. also ford decided too attach the harners too one on the right side then run the trany over flow pipe too ther other and 90 right on top of it lol crow bars work wonders for rebending brakets.
Old 11-27-2010, 08:04 PM
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I found that its pretty easy to remove those top two bolts by using a "wobbly" 13mm socket and a bunch of extensions. That way you can turn the bolts while sitting next to the transmission where you'll have a lot more room. If you don't have a wobbly socket, you could also use a universal joint if you have one in your socket set.

Best of Luck!!!
Old 11-27-2010, 08:05 PM
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Oh, was the car front wheel drive or rear wheel drive?
Old 11-27-2010, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cogden
I found that its pretty easy to remove those top two bolts by using a "wobbly" 13mm socket and a bunch of extensions. That way you can turn the bolts while sitting next to the transmission where you'll have a lot more room. If you don't have a wobbly socket, you could also use a universal joint if you have one in your socket set.

Best of Luck!!!
hmm good idea i got the wobly socket very handy thing too have but no were near enough extensions too do it though ill check it out in the mornin. ty for the idea
Old 11-27-2010, 11:09 PM
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No problem, I hope it helps



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